Model Railway Forum banner
21 - 35 of 35 Posts

·
Just another modeller
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
QUOTE (Expat @ 3 Jul 2008, 19:18) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Yes. It seems to have been deleted.

RICHARD !!!!!!

***Arghhhh sorry - I must have done it when I cleaned up a few old attachments - I'll see if I can find it and repost it

Richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here's a tex version. Hope it helps.Hope Richard doesn't mind.

"First, painting the track: This is done after its all laid with a gray automotive primer aerosol can - of any gray general purpose primer in a can will actually do!

(1) I spray the whole of the track and underlay with Gray aerosol undercoat.

(2) Stain # 1 - a turps based walnut wood stain ( 1 litre can) with equivalent of 2~3 cans of humbrol black and about the same of humbrol leather mixed in. Painted over the track & underlay with a "mop" type soft brush. Takes about 3 minutes a metre to do, no need for care or precision at all.

Let dry at least 24, preferably 48 hours

(3) Then paint rail sides and chairs with stain # 2 - ( 1 litre can) cedar wood stain with a little black and brown (say one can black, two of mid to dark brown + 4 or so of leather/rusty colour. I use a super cheap kids paintbrush as I want stiffish bristles to get this stain into the web and over the chairs. I paint rail sides and chair detail with a single stroke, and it takes only a few minutes to do a respectable length of track like this.

Natural "errors" make some seep onto the sleepers in places, but being largely a stain the look is "softened" and it looks very realistic compared to precise painting of rail and chairs that never looks good to me.

for both stains, keep well stirred or the paint tint settles out.

Using the stains lets the colour flow into the detail areas around chairs without giving a "painting by numbers" look to rail painting - its very natural and realistic that way.

CLEANUP: After each coat/stain: Initially wipe over the top of the track with the end grain of an offcut of timber/ pine block moistened with a little turps to get off most paint (this works really well) , then use a rubber for the little thats left...

OK: Ballasting.

Paint between sleepers and all over the underlay with very slightly thinned (say 2 parts glue, 1 part water). Use a small stiffish kids paintbrush - one that has those "too stiff for most things" synthetic bristles and is super cheap at discount stores).

take care around points of course, but with this method there is much less likelihood of glueing them up anyway!

Paint about 6" at a time, no more or the glue goes off. Spread more ballast than needed and tamp down with a finger. Vaccum off excess and recover for the next section.

Then simply run a stiff-ish brush along rail sides to get the odd bit of unwanted ballst and re-vacuum, and the jobs done.

If you do several slightly 6" sections at a time (about 5 min each) and then after final vaccuming go back and do the gaps, there are no visible joints in the ballasting and the job goes quick enough - with NO furstration and a very neat look!

Overall - undercoating then staining is an added step that for me, makes realism much better - and as to ballasting, applying it the above way takes time, but not so much more than the spreading/glueing/cleanup of the "eyedropper" method, and its far tidier in the end too! Certianly - frustration and "error" is much lower doing it the way suggested above!"
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,854 Posts
Hi Tony,

I think you've confused this with another thread.

This one's about LED Point Indicator Lights, not track painting.

Luckily I had printed out Richards diagram so here it is again.

View attachment Point_LED_Wiring.pdf

Cheers,

Expat.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
QUOTE (Expat @ 3 Jul 2008, 19:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Tony,

I think you've confused this with another thread.

This one's about LED Point Indicator Lights, not track painting.

Luckily I had printed out Richards diagram so here it is again.

View attachment 498

Cheers,

Expat.

Hi Expat.
What was I thinking of ? You'd think it was Monday all over again.You wouldn't mind but I was the one who started the thread. I better double the dose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
QUOTE (Expat @ 3 Jul 2008, 19:35) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I don't know about double the dose. Maybe you'de be better coming off it all together. Whatever IT is !!!

Exapt.

Thanks. That makes me feel much better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Got it now ,thanks Steve.

Richard, you have too many things going at the same time - you will clean yourself up one day

Good circuit. A question though.

With the LED power supply being connected one side to the frog, this means that all friogs on the layout are connected via the power supply - would this affect any sections in DCC protected by auto overloads or cause any degredation of control signals as each point adds a resistance of about 1K across the track power & actually puts the LED power across the track via the LED not alight?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Looking at Richard's circuit a bit more, if we assume the point as shown is straight through meaning green frog is joined to pink rail & on another point being set to the branch means gren frgog is joined to yellow rail, thus in having the LED power supply going to the frogs & being commoned to all points, in this situation of the 2 points as I descibe, I see a short circuit across the track : red rail - green frog - LED power common - green frog- yellow rail & the connections are via point motor accessory switch.

Am I wrong ?
 

·
Just another modeller
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
QUOTE (Sol @ 4 Jul 2008, 09:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Looking at Richard's circuit a bit more, if we assume the point as shown is straight through meaning green frog is joined to pink rail & on another point being set to the branch means gren frgog is joined to yellow rail, thus in having the LED power supply going to the frogs & being commoned to all points, in this situation of the 2 points as I descibe, I see a short circuit across the track : red rail - green frog - LED power common - green frog- yellow rail & the connections are via point motor accessory switch.

Am I wrong ?

***Sol, you are making my head hurt :)

The circuit as shown has nothing across the track. I will explore the situation with several points a bit more as it was a quick answer at its simplest and anything is possible.

To be honest my own preferred solution is not as per the circuit as I try to keep track and anything else totally separated to give maximum future stability and lowest possibility of later trouble shooting problems (such shared circuits are always OK when started, but if its to grow like topsy then one simple error on an LED circuit can close down the track bus!

Simplest answer - use the SPDT to switch a small relay to change the LEDs - a couple of dollars added but the potential for conflict is totally removed - no greater complexity in wiring needed for that totally bulletproof answer.

When the new "in concept stage" Manual + DCC + computer compatible IO board for total layout control via MASTERswitch is finished it'll all be irrelevant anyway :)

(no, not soon - but it will happen)

Richard
DCCconcepts

Richard
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Thanks Richard - yes the concept of a small relay with 2 changeovers - one for frog switching & one for LED's to me is the better way.

Common return is OK but this circuit has common frogs which has different results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Hi peeps, I know this is an old thread but it is just what I was looking for, I have printed out Richards wiring drawing for this but the only question
I have is do I wire the seep as per the diagram all in a row " a b c d e f " basically ignoring the letters on the seep terminals which
are "a c d e f b " or do I wire for example blue wire to "e" as on the seep and so forth, I hope you can understand what I am trying to get at.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,854 Posts
The diagrams are actually incorrect as they do not follow the terminal arrangement of the Seep motor so you should follow the Seep wiring diagram, A, C, D, E, F, B otherwise frog polarity change-over will not work.

Terminals A, B & C are for the power input and switch connections to drive the motor.

Terminals D, E, & F are connected to the track and the DCC Bus for frog polarity change-over. These are the terminals to which your LEDs should be connected as there is always a power supply to them via the track.
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top