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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys
I am looking for some help here with a problem i am getting with Peco uncoupling ramps with my smaller shunting engines, Bachmann 04 being one of them and also some rolling stock that seems to rise over them and sometimes uncouple even when the tension is on!!


Can anyone help me with an easy alternative to these ramps and if you can explain :-

1. Where to get them

2. How you would fit them

3. How they will work.

Your help as always very gratefully received.

Kind regards
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (Doug @ 12 Nov 2008, 12:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You can get a manual uncoupling ramp that stays down until you move a lever that raises it (Hornby R617).

You can get an electric uncoupling ramp that does the same, but is operated remotely (Hornby R8244 + R8243).

Or you can ditch the tension lock system altogether and get something else instead (one idea here).

Hi Doug and thanks for reply. I have just looked at the Hornby website and the R617 seems to be an automatic uncoupler just like the peco one's!!
It doesn't mention that they are manually operated. Any idea's Doug or have i read the description wrong perhaps.
The Kadee is a good idea but would be a massive undertaking by me to change all my rolling stock.

Many thanks for your input
Kind regards
Paul
 

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QUOTE (madon37s @ 12 Nov 2008, 11:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Guys
I am looking for some help here with a problem i am getting with Peco uncoupling ramps with my smaller shunting engines, Bachmann 04 being one of them and also some rolling stock that seems to rise over them and sometimes uncouple even when the tension is on!!


Can anyone help me with an easy alternative to these ramps and if you can explain :-

1. Where to get them

2. How you would fit them

3. How they will work.

Your help as always very gratefully received.

Kind regards
Paul

I don't buy them, I tried all sorts with not a lot of success. I use a piece of clear acetate cut into a strip about 3 inches long and to fit inside the track in an arc. This does work and needs a bit of practice but is cheap and effective and works with all of my mixed rolling stock. The shop ones are fine with Hornby, Dapol,Wren and Lima but not with Bachmann which are a finer tolerance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Patrick many thanks for the tip

Could you tell me what thickness of acetate you use and how you glue it to the track etc.

Many thanks again
Kind regards
Paul
 

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One method of dealing with this problem is to drill small holes straight through both ends of the uncoupler and the baseboard. Then feed a loop of nylon fishing wire through both holes and over the uncoupler ramp. Then a choke cable pull arrangement can be used to pull the fishing line thus pulling the coupler down where it stays inactive. When the uncoupler is needed to function the choke pull is pressed in which allows the uncoupler to spring up and function. I got this method from a model rail magazine probably 30 years ago and used it until switching to KD's. It functioned very reliably for many years on several layouts. The first one is a fiddle to set up and then the rest take 15 mins each. One of the sources for the pull arrangement is K&S brass tubing which i presume is available in the UK. The tube can be tapped into an undersized hole in the baseboard side and the solid rod can pass through it with enough friction to keep the uncoupler pulled down. I know a diagram would be worth a few hundred words but sorry I don t do diagrams
This way the uncouplers stay down except when you want one up.
regards Andrew
 

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I use the acetates that we used on the O.H.P when teaching but ant will do the job such as clear wrappings from boxes etc. it needs to be thin but flexible. I tuck it uber the sleepers with about a 2 inch gap, you will have to practice to find out what suits. It works best on a straight track but if the curve is not too steep it will do, I haven't tried cutting the acetate in a curve but I'm sure a gradual one may do.
As long as the material squashes down on normal running any will do but I use acetates because they are clear and mark the uncoupler with a scenic marker of some sort.
 

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QUOTE Could you tell me what thickness of acetate you use and how you glue it to the track etc.

I used to use the stiffeners you found under shirt collars in their packaging. I don't know if they still come like that, I don't wear ties to work any more. To fix them to the track, I bent tabs at each end and slid them under adjacent sleepers. It was a bit tricky to get them adjusted properly but they worked and they were cheap.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Patrick and David

Many thanks for your helpful tips i shall look out for that stuff and have a go


Kind regards
Paul
 
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