Point motor installation

2386 Views 8 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Makemineadouble, Jul 2, 2006

Branchliner

Discussion Starter · May 7, 2006

As I don't like making those huge holes in order to attach the motors direct to the points, I am using the Peco motors with the extended pins and adaptor plates which just require a small hole in the baseboard. I find it extremely difficult to get the exact alignment and holding it while screwing the adaptor plates in place.

One idea I have is to make up a temporary holding fixture which will permit adjustment of the motor but is able to hold it sufficiently tight to check the operation prior to fitting the final screws in place, this fixture would be used on each motor and adaptor in turn.

Has anyone got a better solution?

Brian

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John Webb

· #2 · May 7, 2006

Dear Brian,

There was a very similar query posted in this section of the forum by dave777 on the 14th of February this year - see page 2. I also expressed concerns about a large hole when the motor was fitted to the point, and LisaP4 kindly suggested sandwiching a piece of card between the point and motor to hide the hole and provide somewhere to stick ballast.

The only suggestion I can make is to use short screws with large washers to clamp onto the sides of the adaptor plate so you have a few degrees of adjustment - then when in the correct place fix the plate down and remove the clamping screws.

Regards,
John Webb

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CeeDeeI

· #3 · May 7, 2006

I too had this problem and in the end had to resort to the large holes in the baseboard. It was my eyes, hands and back that defeated me in the end. I have fitted three more motors this last week and went straight for the holes. With a section of paper or card between hole and motor there isn't really a problem.

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Brian

· #4 · May 8, 2006

Brian
Have a look on my web sie for easy fixoing of Peco motors (Solinoides) under baseboards
Point fixing then scrol down a little to locate the "fixing" details

Brian

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Rail-Rider

· #5 · Jun 7, 2006

I may have said it before but no matter, I'll say it again - Brian's web site is a VERY helpful resource and it is in my Internet favourites.

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Dave777

· #6 · Jun 30, 2006

Gawd, I thought I had got a grip on this but yet again I've read something that makes me unsure:

When using point motors with switches to change the frog polarity do you have to wire the extra switch wires directly to the frog itself or into the tracks beyond the heel end?

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Gofer

· #7 · Jun 30, 2006 (Edited by Moderator)

Depends whether you're using insulated joiners on the frog rails Dave but if you work on the basis that it's always the frog which needs it's polarity changing and wire it directly you can't go far wrong. So to recap, of the three wires on the switch one should come from each of the stock rails and the third wire should go directly to the frog.

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Dave777

· #8 · Jul 1, 2006

What if you've already fixed your track to the board? Getting at the frog may be a little tricky, so can I solder to the heel ends instead or won't that achieve anything?

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Makemineadouble

· #9 · Jul 2, 2006

The ideal is to switch polarity of the frog at the same time as the turnout. That way you don't depend on the contact of the turnout blade to conduct power.
QUOTE What if you've already fixed your track to the board? Getting at the frog may be a little tricky, so can I solder to the heel ends instead or won't that achieve anything?
Thats not going to achieve the same results Dave. Having said that my last layout had 122 turnouts and seven double slips and they all functioned perfectly for years with the odd clean. So if it's a lot of hassel stick to whats working. The next layout will have polarity switching, and probably block detection as well - but thats another story. Moral of the story if it works let it alone. Agood track cleaning car, and a mini vaccum cleaner can be a good investment.

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