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Any views/experience? Using on N gauge Peco Code 55 electrofrog points.

Not a great deal of difference in price, so is there a general preference for one or the other? Seep motors seem widely used but I read recently about someone who wouldn't go near them again and only used Peco.

My layout is portable - the Seep ones look small and neat (and light). The Peco ones look like something out of the dark ages!
 

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Which point motors to use?

I use Fulgurex or Lemaco point motors. These are very similar to each other and are both operated, not by a solenoid, but by an electric motor driving a worm wheel which causes a threaded rod to move back and forth. There are microswitches at the end of the travel to stop the motor. You change the points by reversing the polarity of the power supply. You get two sets of relay contacts, one for reversing the polarity of the point crossing and one can be used for interlocking with other points, signals etc.

They take about a two seconds to change the points and are very positive. You need to use an angle crank to reduce the travel. The slow change of the points is much better than hearing the zap of a solenoid and the sight of your loose balast jumping about.

The only drawback is they are a bit dear, but I buy them in bulk. I have never had a failure in service.

Colombo
 

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I am put off Peco and Seep motors because if mounted under the point you have to cut out a sizable hole for it to drop into, and then disguise said hole. If mounted on a separate base under the point you need to cut a slot for the operating pin to pass through. This slot then needs to be kept clear particularly if the track is ballasted with the usual stone and PVA/water/washing-up liquid method.

On my layout I have used Fulgurex for the main points. minor problems getting the right throw to suit the mainly Peco points but now all OK. Perhaps a little noisy, but the operation is close to the prototype. Mounted under the baseboard it only needs a small hole to use the supplied wire crank and tube.

I have used Hammant & Morgan point motors (salvaged from a layout dismantled 40 years ago!) for less-used sidings and the fiddle yard. Robust, and only needs a small hole for the crank shaft if mounted under the baseboard, and easy to set up if mounted on top (as in the fiddle yards.) It also has one built-in switch. If used with the crankshaft and crank this latter can be painted to match the surrounding ground to minimise intrusion.

Regards,
John Webb
 

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For Peco points use Peco motors, if you attach them directly to the point use a 2" square piece of card between the point and motor to hide the hole.

My personal preference are Tortoise motors, they're the smoothest and quietest point motors I've tried and come with a 9 year warranty. And it's very easy to adjust the throw and tension on the blades should you need to, it can be done after installation.
 

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I had looked at Tortoise motors as well but rather pricey (£UK3-4) more than the Fulgurex. They certainly are quieter, possibly because they are, I recall, totally enclosed. But thanks for mentioning them and the idea of the card between motor and points on Peco - would make things easier.

Regards,
John Webb
 

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QUOTE I am put off Peco and Seep motors because if mounted under the point you have to cut out a sizable hole for it to drop into, and then disguise said hole.

I mount my Peco motors (Solenoids) underneath. Operation is via a 9mm dia hole drilled centrally under the tie bar, before finally laying the point. This gives ample room for the operating pin to move either way. The very large hole for the motor etc to drop through is then avoided.
This is on "00" code 100 track and perhaps a smaller hole can be used on "N"?

Cost of electric point motors are around three times that of Peco type motors! Though the slower operation is more realistic and wont damage soldered hand built track
 

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>I have used Fulgurex for the main points. minor problems getting the right throw to suit the mainly Peco point
John,
I have bought one Fulgurex as an experiment. I have found that the prebent 19mm throw on the upper end does not match the sleeper spacing on my Peco points. Did you find this? If what solution did you adopt? I can think of two:

1) Rebend the wire to give a throw which suits the Peco sleeper spacing
2) Drill space in a sleeper so that you can keep the 19mm

David
 

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Dear David,
Did you see my reply under the 'NCE Powercab' thread? I mentioned using the GEM couplers part 1013 to extend the wire by a few mm and to provide an easier link to the PECO point as they have a hole which drops over the pip on the point rod.
Regards,
John Webb
 

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QUOTE (LisaP4 @ 15 Feb 2006, 16:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>For Peco points use Peco motors, if you attach them directly to the point use a 2" square piece of card between the point and motor to hide the hole

I'm using PL-10E ; the Peco point motors with the Extended pins
I've negotiated a fixed price of £2.95 each, on my order of 30
So fat I have fitted one, to make sure the plan works :
All I then need to do is drill a 1/4" hole for the pin, cut a piece of thin cardboard 2" square, with a slot in it for the pin, and this is hidden by the point

I also have a quantity (about 25) of PL-10 ; the standard point motors, and these will be used on the fiddle yard, so need to hide them
However, I might dump all these on to eBay UK, so that all the point motors aer identical and easy to replace in the event of failure during attending an exhibition
 

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try this for an alternative:
Hoffman
offering polarity switching, at around £7.50 a shot they are available in the UK.
Conrad Electronics
Conrad electronic's also offer a similar unit at a much lower price - this subject was covered some two months ago so should be in the archives.
 

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>Did you see my reply under the 'NCE Powercab' thread?
I read everything, but do not always remember everything. I came across this thread via a Google search on "Fulgurex +Peco +point".

M8 Internet:
Until now I have been a Peco motor user but I have decided to go for slow motion action and I need to add the micro switches to get frog power and position feedback.

MMD
Thanks for the reminders about those alternatives, I will check them out.

David
 
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