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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I'm a total newbie around here (this is my first post!), and I was wondering if anyone could give me a bit of advice about whose points are best to use on my planned H0e layout, based on Austrian 760mm operation. My existing equipment is simply the Roco start-set I got, plus a couple of Peco items I picked up to experiment with. I'm using DCC.

My only problem really with the Roco track (aside from the awful tight standard curves - I'll use flexi-track anyway) is that the point blades are a little coarse, I find, such that some less well-built stock sometimes rides up onto the switch blade and derails (Liliput bogie wagons do this).

On the other hand, the Peco points are very nicely made (look good too, and come with a Y-point!), but very frustratingly only seem to be available in the Electrofrog version, which is a major hassle under DCC operation (and I suspect of little real benefit given the quality of modern insulated frog points, and the fact that most of my motive power will be 6-axle electric locos!).

I wonder if anyone could make any suggestions?

Thanks very much in anticipation.

Regards
****
 

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Hi ****,

If I remember correctly the Liliput wagons are quite light - try adding some weight to them & check the "back to backs" on the wheelsets.

Hope this helps.
 

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[quote name='1099.011' date='6 Nov 2007, 08:47' post='38801']

On the other hand, the Peco points are very nicely made (look good too, and come with a Y-point!), but very frustratingly only seem to be available in the Electrofrog version, which is a major hassle under DCC operation (and I suspect of little real benefit given the quality of modern insulated frog points, and the fact that most of my motive power will be 6-axle electric locos!).

I wonder if anyone could make any suggestions?

Thanks very much in anticipation.

*******, my first instinct is always to say build your own as its easier than it looks, but I note the whole of your comment and understand that for a new modeller, thats easy to say but not so practical.

Electrofrog really aren't all that much of a DCC problem - they can just be improved very much by doing the recommended mods, which only take a few minutes.

In fact if you don't want to do the frog switching (which is a VERY good idea for both DC and DCC layouts) and bond the point rails to the stock rails (an even more importnat thing to do for both DC and DCC layouts for long term perfect reliability) then just lay them as they come out of the packet!

Providing you lay them properly on a good even base and you keep the back-to-back of all wheels constant they will work equally well for DC or DCC. In fact, the "out of the box" wiring of Electrofrog is to me better than Peco standard insulfrog, as at least you don't have the point blade and adjacent stock rail at dirrerent polarity, which is MORE of a problem by far!

I'd go for the Peco if thats your preference.

BTW - DB's advice re weight and wheel back to back is very much spot on - I think if you try that you will find most derailments disappear.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi, thanks for both of your replies. Yes, I think that's right about the Liliput wagons - in particular the 'gauge' (to use the expression loosely!). Will experiment with different wheelsets.

As far as the Peco electrofrog points are concerned, the problem is that as purchased they short-circuit when set against an approaching train on a trailing line; I don't really understand how one can easily modify them (i.e. without unnecessary hassle) so I'm thinking I'll probably ditch them and just use Roco until such time as I can make my own (which may be in the rather distant future I suspect!).

Thanks again.

****
 

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QUOTE (1099.011 @ 7 Nov 2007, 01:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi, thanks for both of your replies. Yes, I think that's right about the Liliput wagons - in particular the 'gauge' (to use the expression loosely!). Will experiment with different wheelsets.

As far as the Peco electrofrog points are concerned, the problem is that as purchased they short-circuit when set against an approaching train on a trailing line; I don't really understand how one can easily modify them (i.e. without unnecessary hassle) so I'm thinking I'll probably ditch them and just use Roco until such time as I can make my own (which may be in the rather distant future I suspect!).

Thanks again.

****

*** Hi ****. That shorting can be removed by just adding insulated joiners at the frog. anwhere a point faces another point, or a point has power feeds at the facing end, have one insulator or cut one gap anywhere on the frog rail (the rail that meets the frog) and the shorting will disappear. This is the same whether its DC or DCC.

dead easy.

Richard
 
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