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· In depth idiot
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The power pick up on this version is that the loco chassis is live to rail one side, the tender live to rail the other side. The red wire in the photo is the connection from the loco to the insulated brush connection on the motor. The other brush is connected via the motor body construction to the live side of the tender.

One possibility, if you removed all the coupling rods and took the coupled wheels out of the chassis, they will go back in wrong way round, then there is either no circuit or a dead short on the loco. (I don't think it is possible to get the wheels wrong way around in the tender, but it is an age since I last looked at one of these!)

Old Hornby diagrams here, in case that's helpful, look at 91 and 91A for a start, then follow on to the tender diagrams.
 

· In depth idiot
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8,699 Posts
No prying or levering! The best way is applying a rod slightly slimmer than the axle to the axle end, and gently 'drift' them off with taps from a pin hammer. This leaves the wheelseats undamaged, so when replaced, the wheels return true on the axle.

But before removing the wheelsets, are the metal tyred wheels, (uppermost in your picture) live to the chassis block? If so, it's the connection from chassis block to the brush that's the problem. Never having loooked at this particular motor unit, unfortunately I cannot advise on the missing part(s). Hopefully another on this site will know...
 

· In depth idiot
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8,699 Posts
Those axle bearings are intended to be lubricated. Use a plastic compatible oil or grease, to avoid degrading the plastic components of the wheelsets. There will still be adequate conduction.
 
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