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Just another modeller
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*** This is laid on 5mm underlay - in this case our own brand. (GM have stock in UK)

5mm = 15" in real life, and once the cess is modelled properly, looks about right to me





regards

Richard
 

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Hiding in the tender
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Not sure how I missed this thread. But looks good, can't wait to see more Ray!


- Jack
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Progress for the day.

Two lengths of track plus points laid down and tested.



I use a steel rule and also my eye to try to get the track straight. Looks like a couple of kinks towards the top, so will have to check this.

Back to studying this afternoon !

Hopefully start on the second board tomorrow...
 

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Boghouse Cleaner
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Are they the Peco Electrofrog points you recently ordered. They look like old ones (upgraded ones have been around a few years now) without the gap for isolating the frog and closure rails..
Are you not bothering with bonding the stock and closure rails and seperatley switching the frog, only now is the time to be doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
QUOTE (Free_at _last @ 8 Aug 2012, 16:35) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Are they the Peco Electrofrog points you recently ordered. They look like old ones (upgraded ones have been around a few years now) without the gap for isolating the frog and closure rails..
Are you not bothering with bonding the stock and closure rails and seperatley switching the frog, only now is the time to be doing it.

Hi Pete

Yes some of them are old S?H ones off ebay.

As I am unfamiliar with electrofrogs what does doing what you suggest mean to running? (Note that I am DC not DCC).
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Well it is just as well that I checked those kinks - I had missed out a complete siding!

Now rectified, complete with catch point.

 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Some more track laid today and one pair of power droppers installed. All working ok.

One thing about the WS underlay, if you need to mark it for cutting a razor saw will mark it nicely with a straight line, then finish the cut with scissors.

Have to wait for some more points to arrive now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
Having measured up the space required for the rear viaduct, I didn't really have room for the planned three sidings at the station, so I have amended the layout accordingly.

View from the lower terminus end. (The retaining wall gives you an idea of where the inclined rear embankment/viaduct will run).
The buffer stops are temporary, to prevent accidents!



Views looking towards the lower station




Note: this is not the final platform! Just one I had from my old layout. I easily have room for 5 full size coaches on the mainline and probably about 3 in the station bay.

Slow running is exceptionally smooth. It really is worth the effort to try to get track joins and alignment right. Every time I lay one piece of track, I run a loco over it at slow speed just to check.
 

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Ray,
Join the club - I too tested every point or bit of track as it was laid , none was ballasted until the section was complete and had been used for regular running . Looking good keep posting the pics .
Graham
 

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By heck, that's looking good already! That watertower's a really nice model too. I was going to ask 'which part of the layout are you starting with' but looking back along the thread (top tip here folks- read before posting
) I noticed you mentioned some months ago you'd be starting with the lower station.

I had never realised how a few buildings, some stock and some small accessories (people, lamp standards etc) can bring a layout to life even before the heavier building work other than the baseboards are begun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Just finished off the bay track.
It will hold 4 full size coaches and the end is a (switched) isolated section that can store a loco while another loco is attached to the other end of the train.





 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
I have now made a start on the Mimic Board for the lower station.

It is simply a rectangle of hardboard, that will be reinforced at the rear by some thing wood strip.
First the front was sprayed black, the the diagram drawn in pencil.
Next the holes were drilled for the switches and also the Peco studs for the point motor control.
Finally the lines were painted.


The switches I am using are (from left to right) Push to Make, Two-way with centre off, and the stud.


Panel nearly complete (I need 3 push switches, I'm sure I have some hidden somewhere!)


Close-up of the studs. These will be operated by a 16v Capacitor Discharge Unit and probe.


Some labels to be added next.
 

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Looks like you've been busy Ray.

Possibly a bit late now (& it won't help for the turntable mimic), but Halfrauds & other car accessory places do nice self adhesive "pin strips" in various widths & colours which you can use for mimic boards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
QUOTE (Brian Considine @ 12 Aug 2012, 19:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Looks like you've been busy Ray.

Possibly a bit late now (& it won't help for the turntable mimic), but Halfrauds & other car accessory places do nice self adhesive "pin strips" in various widths & colours which you can use for mimic boards.

Thanks, Brian.
I will bear that in mind for the next Mimic Panel.

QUOTE (ste @ 12 Aug 2012, 21:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Looking very good already Ray.


Have you painted your sleepers? If so what paint have you used?

Keep up the good work and I am looking forward to seeing how your layout progresses

Thanks, Ste.
The sleepers and rails were painted some time ago on my previous layout. I didn't use any specific colour, just a blend of brown and black on the rails and more of a dilute dirty wash on the sleepers, just to get rid of the sheen of the plastic.
 

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garage hobbit&#33;&#33;&#33;
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Looking good Ray

I agree with Brian on the tape, its what I us, can be easilly removed if the plan changes too

if you dont find those ptm buttons, drop me a PM and I will dig out my draw, am sure I have loads from my old layout
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
QUOTE (Long funnel & tiresome @ 13 Aug 2012, 17:58) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Mebbe this is a really silly basic question Ray:
On your "mimic board" will you have any visual indication/reminders of what roads you have set up after touching your studs?

LF&T

Absolutely not a silly question LF&T, I have ordered up green LEDs that will be fitted later.

Thanks to everyone for their interest, support and assistance to date!
 

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Finished off the frame for the mimic board today plus added push buttons and switches.


Turntable rotary switch.


Drilled holes for LED clips for route indicators. (Apologies for the poor photo)
 
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