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Longfunnelled&tiresome
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QUOTE (James Harrison @ 10 Jun 2012, 17:18) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I know that on the Cross-City line in Birmingham (around Five Ways and Edgbaston) there is a cutting that is lined with brick arches like that. Where the cutting comes down to track level, the arches descend in steps whilst the parapet wall falls on a smooth gradient. I tried to find a couple of photos using google maps and the streetview feature, but frustratingly the roads don't go where I need them to!

Is this what you were looking for?



I captured it with "Print Screen" off Bing Maps birds eye view (without labels)

See my post #9 about it yesterday here

Happy to be of help...


LF&T
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I think I have worked out the arches. Keep them vertical and well below the level of the track. The wall above will slope with the track gradient and the parapet above that will therefore remain parallel with the trackbed.

As another aside, I thought I would show the mimic board that I used on the old layout. It is simply made of hardboard on a wooden batten frame with a painted front. The bottom is hinged for drop down access to the rear and a piece of ribbon on one side stops it at 90 degrees. The rear is a bit of a rats nest! This is a DC layout.





Point control is by peco stud and probe. Simple but very effective. Wires are soldered to the back of each stud. The probe is powered by a 16v supply from the controller. Touching the probe against a stud throws the point. Two studs are required for each point.



Finally I use this American unit to obtain some limited sound effects. I will switch to a Mr Rails sound system for my next layout I think.

 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I've just taken an hour off from today's studies to plan out there the lower station baseboard joins will be and where the support battens will be. A bit of a tricky job in some areas due to the amount of pointwork ! I will be fitting under-board point motors so no wood will be under the ends of the points. Also, I have tried wherever possible to place a join either on plain track or at the very end of a point.

Back to studies now!
 

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QUOTE (Long funnel & tiresome @ 10 Jun 2012, 19:18) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Is this what you were looking for?



I captured it with "Print Screen" off Bing Maps birds eye view (without labels)

See my post #9 about it yesterday here

Happy to be of help...


LF&T

That's the one!

I must say I'm enjoying reading this thread... it is even giving me dangerous ideas about maybe extending my hypothetical layout beyond the station throat and around the room... maybe I should get just the first bit done first though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
A reasonably productive day today ! (For a change!)

I brought two bags of cement that had gone solid to the council tip. Then I finally removed all of the old track from the baseboards.

On the subject of track removal. I use a pair of track cutters to remove track pins as you can get the blades really underneath the heads of the pins. Hold the track by the pin down with one hand while levering the pin up with the cutters.

You need to take care when removing the track. First remove all the obvious pins, then starting at the end of track, lift and jiggle the track gently at the same time. Any resistance is likely to be a hidden pin.

For points, remove the point motor tie bar on above ground motors first by gently pressing down on the point tie bar to uncouple it from the hole on the motor lever then slide it to the side away from the motor.

The next major job is to clear out all of the boxes of stuff under the baseboards so I can get underneath! Then I can unsolder all the joints to recycle as much wire as possible!
 

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Longfunnelled&amp;tiresome
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QUOTE (James Harrison @ 11 Jun 2012, 17:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>That's the one!
I must say I'm enjoying reading this thread... it is even giving me dangerous ideas about maybe extending my hypothetical layout beyond the station throat and around the room... maybe ...!
It is indeed a very DANGEROUS thought.

Take my advice stay with the purely hypothetical layout: its cheap, its a great space saver...and ...it never goes wrong.

Just look at that poor Ray: he's always humping heavy cement bags about or trying to chip the wrong lettering off his new scratch built diesels.

Best of all you can always post on other folks' threads to offer corrective advice. The post after this shows you how.

LF&T
 

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Longfunnelled&amp;tiresome
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QUOTE (Rhiwderin_Ray @ 12 Jun 2012, 15:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>A reasonably productive day today ! (For a change!)
I brought two bags of cement that had gone solid to the council tip. Then I finally removed all of the old track from the baseboards.... I use a pair of track cutters to remove track pins as you can get the blades really underneath the heads of the pins. First remove all the obvious pins, then starting at the end of track, lift and jiggle the track gently at the same time. Any resistance is likely to be a hidden pin.
While you were at the council tip I hope you remembered to scavenge a few used old urine specimen bottles for storing those track pins as advised here (post #5 onwards) .

LF&T
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
QUOTE (Long funnel & tiresome @ 12 Jun 2012, 17:32) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>A very DANGEROUS thought.

Take my advice stay with the purely hypothetical layout: its cheap, its a great space saver...and ...it never goes wrong.

Just look at that poor Ray: he's always humping heavy cement bags about or trying to chip the wrong lettering off his new scratch built diesels.

Best of all you can always post on other folks' threads to offer corrective advice.

LF&T


I also checked that I had room past the station crossover for a large loco like a Duchess, 8F and LMS 10000 !
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
I just thought I would mention the use of Peco turnout templates. These are readily downloadable from the Peco website http://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=pointplans

First, make sure when you are printing that you set the printer to print Actual Size. Once printed, there is a ruler on the sheet, so compare this using a ruler.

Here is a sample sheet


I cut out a turnout template using scissors and mark the type of turnout and the code number on it for reference.


Here I have placed a Catch Point template near to the main running line turnout and then draw around it with a pencil, marking the ends of the rails too.


Remove the template and mark on the plan the turnout type and ref code.


Next, using a piece of flexi track, I aligned the flexi between the catch point end and the rest of the siding and drew along the edge of the track.


Hope this helps explain the process !
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Very little to report, except that I bought several of these large storage boxes from Asda for £3 each - bargain ! (Loco shown for comparison - unfortunately not included !!!)



And I have also got my LMS 10000 kit-bash running ! So at least something was accomplished !
see here - http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...showtopic=22371
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Well, a little progress today. I packed up most of my boxed locos into the four plastic boxes. I still have a cardboard box full of coaches and two 3 drawer plastic drawer sets plus all the boxes in the loft! At least I have a bit of room to get to the wiring. However, I am about one week behind in my OU studies so it will take some time still to dismantle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
I've just found out this morning from SWMBO that we have cavity wall insulation people coming on 2nd July and that they will need access to the garage wall


So I have to get the boards dismantled by then ! Nothing like a deadline to focus the mind !
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
So with time of the essence I broke off my studies and spend an hour in the garage. I managed to unsolder all the connections at the back of the mimic board, detach all of the street and station lighting and about 4 point motors. Well it's a start ! With a bit of luck I can fully remove all the wiring by Friday at the latest and then spend Sunday dismantling the woodwork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Quite a successful day today as I have managed to detach all of the wiring and point motors. I have put all the old wire in clear plastic bags by colour to help when re-wiring although I may well need some new stuff.

Quite sad really to seeing all that hard work disappear...

However, it did not work properly as the radii were too tight and at least I have a new layout to look forward to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Have just spent a little while sketching out how I plan to make the main L Girder Base modules. The deep ones will contain stock drawers on kitchen cabinet rails as illustrated, others will just have some shelves.



The sketch is obviously not complete, it just shows the main components!!!
 

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That looks like a lot of wood work Ray. Will be most interested to see how this goes.
 

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One little change that might help if the bases are going to be installed next to a wall first. When you come to attach the cross bearers, it will be easier if the rear L-shape has the horizontal piece projecting forwards. This will make it much easier to screw in from below and see what you are doing. Of course if it is all going to be fixed before placing it against a wall then this doesn't matter (unless you need to make alterations later). Also, if the front L-shape has its horizontal piece projecting backwards, then the front of the layout is a flush face, and you can more easily add a decorative fascia if you want to.

I hope this helps and that you can understand what I mean.

Robert
 
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