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*** All well built timber-wise Ray, but... It seems the whole point of L Girder construction is sort of missed.

Its not another way of supporting a flat baseboard top, but a method of giving total flexibility of construction utilising L girders to minimise the need for legs and other support, leaving the underside of a layout free so there is good access, while keeping placement of lateral supports flexible / variable to accommodate positioning of turnout placement without obstructions underneath via the use of battens and "risers" to support trackbed ONLY where track itself is to be laid.

Versatility and flexibility of design is its rationale and the very positive visual contribution of L Girder is the huge incease in realism possible thanks to the removal of the "flat earth" result of large baseboard tops!

regards

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 27 Jul 2012, 04:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>*** All well built timber-wise Ray, but... It seems the whole point of L Girder construction is sort of missed.

Its not another way of supporting a flat baseboard top, ..........

regards

Richard

Hi Richard.

The flat top was for illustration purposes only. In fact on my layout the lower station trackwork will rise over 1" to a passing station on the opposite side and then continue rising back around to the lower station where it will be on an embankment at the edge of the baseboard. It then continues to rise to an upper terminus.

Layout Plan: (Stage 1 will be bottom of Plan and l/h side; Stage 2 will be top passing station; Stage 3 will be Terminus)



Hope this clarifies?
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Well I took the plunge today and have ordered four Electrofrog points. I have never used them before but trust they will improve slow running.

No progress otherwise.
 

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*** It's a good positive step Ray - you will not regret it.

regards

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
I am afraid that progress has slowed almost to a standstill on the layout due to several reasons.
a) my back is playing up again - I trapped a nerve many years ago and it gives me sciatica from time to time.
I am way behind in Open University studies and have a major essay to produce by the end of the month.
c) I have overspent on locos and other bits and bobs recently so have less to spend on building - it happens to us all I'm sure!

Anyway today I finished off a second storage drawer and six legs for the second baseboard frame, so that is a small step forward.

I don't think there will be much more progress now for about a month until I catch up on my studies, although I have some points arriving soon so you never know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Well a little progress as some things continue to arrive through the door including:
a Green Scene Ballast Mate ballast spreader.
a second Gaugemaster DS dual controller with brake simulation to replace my ageing Duettes.
some electrofrog points

Anyway I started to mark out the track on the first baseboard.
This is the way I did it, there may be other methods.

First I laid out the lining paper on top of the baseboard, with the long edge aligned with the edge of the baseboard


Then, using a bradawl, I pricked through the centrelines of the track on the loning paper to mark the wood underneath.


Where there are points in the trackwork, I pricked out the ends of each point

Using a long builders spirit level, I "joined the dots" with a pencil.


Finished lines on the baseboard


Awaiting some more points to arrive before I start test laying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Hi Graham.
Yes I will be using WS underlay for the first time.
Lots of firsts for me on this layout - baseboard type, electrofrogs, underlay, ballaster and controller!
 

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I'll be interested in your thoughts on the WS underlay, Ray. I used it for my N gauge layout, and while I found it very nice to use, I did think it a bit 'high' at 3mm - equivalent to 18 inches - and I'm considering using the OO/HO stuff on the the OO layout I'm just starting. At 5mm, it's not quite as high in real terms as the N gauge stuff, but still thicker than I believe most people use when they're using cork etc.

Steve
 

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hi Ray
i use WS underlay on my N layout and it is a bit high but i tried ballasting a small area and it didn't turn out too bad.pics on Ilsham valley thread.might be of use for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
Yes, I unrolled some underlay the other day and had a look. It does look a bit thicker than the cork I used before but not much thicker than Peco underlay, so I will try a test strip before I commit !

Would have got more done yesterday, but I had to keep standing to attention for all those medal ceremonies!
 

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*** However if you create the "cess" properly so the adjacent area is covered by more than paint as it should be... it will be partly filled, to the 5mm will become far less.

regards

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
Started on the first piece of track today.

First having measured out and marked where the point will sit and where the operating pin will go, I drilled three 3mm holes and joined them together into an oval.



Next I measured and cut out a length of WS underlay, then holding in position, poked a bradawl point through the slot underneath and cut out the marked oval.



The WS underlay has a marked centreline on the underside and this was aligned with the track centreline to mark out the edges in pencil.
Then using a layer of Copydex along the baseboard, I placed the underlay on top, using a spirit level to ensure a nice straight edge, ensuring that the point motor slots were aligned.



Finally, I placed a strip of softwood on top and weighed it down with assorted paint cans,



That's a start!
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
For a crossover, a small piece of underlay has to be inserted between the tracks.

First I laid out the crossover and marked on the baseboard where the insert should be.

Next I cut out the angled edges of the underlay in that area.



Next I cut out a strip of underlay to length and width and inserted it between the tracks. YES, I forgot to remove the angled shoulder on the insert, so I will re-do it! The ends are chamfered though!



This is the crossover with the underlay and pointwork in position



Unfortunately I can't do any more for a while. When storing everything away, I stored the track pins but not with the scenic stuff! So they are hidden away somewhere! DOH !
 

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That looks quite a convincing underlay system (better than some offerings I have seen that look like grey foam!). Are the sleepers going to sink down into it once the track is pinned in place, or is there going to be a thin layer of ballast/sand/ash/insert-particle-material-of-choice-here spread over the top of it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
QUOTE (James Harrison @ 7 Aug 2012, 12:16) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>That looks quite a convincing underlay system (better than some offerings I have seen that look like grey foam!). Are the sleepers going to sink down into it once the track is pinned in place, or is there going to be a thin layer of ballast/sand/ash/insert-particle-material-of-choice-here spread over the top of it?
Hi James.
There will be ballast added as it isn't indented like Peco foam.

Also, I managed to find my mislaid track pins!
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Point Motors next!

These are the extended pin Peco motors that I am using.



I place the point motor under the baseboard, and get the pin into place in the point. Then I clip the pin temporarily in place using a small clamp.



Jiggle the point about a little to ensure that it operates properly, then pin in place.

Once that is done, I can turn the board over, remove the clamps and (once again ensuring that the point operates properly) put in pilot holes using a sharp bradawl, then screw in place



Turn the board correct way up and ensure all is still working well. Job done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
I just thought I would share my Hi-Tech track cutting guide with you! (Patent pending !
)

Basically a piece of softwood batten that is long enough to hold in one hand. Both ends cut square and two saw cuts the width of the rails along one side.



This pic illustrates how it holds the track securely for cutting. If you need a simple parallel square cut then just run the saw along the end.

 

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Interesting to see someone using the WS underlay. I have a load in stock waiting for me to get off my rear end and start building. The H0/00 stuff is 5mm thick, but, I think I saw that N gauge underlay was 3mm thick. In the shop where I got mine, they didn't have any sheets (just the rolls) so I got a very similar (possibly identical) product from C&L.

John
 
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