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A few years back I got a large 00 scale lot from an auction, and in the lot theres this one loco, which ive finally put on the work bench (because most the trains didnt go) to try get it going again. Ive researched the model and found out its a 4-6-4 Baltic Tank made by Tri-ang South Africa. I seen some photos of the model with out the body but i could not figure out where the wires had to go, can any body please give me directions?

Some pics:



And a Link:
Tri-ang web site thing
 

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All Triang locos are wired up the same. If you have another loco open that up and simply copy what you see in that. I say this because there are various bits that have to be insulated and by checking out another loco it should all become clear. You may have crucial parts missing and we cannot tell from the pictures. You will need a soldering iron to refix the wires. Make sure the motor still works however before you do anything. Atatch 2 leads to the brushes from your transformer and see if the motor spins around or smokes. If it smokes then


Thats the sort of loco that gets Triang collectors very excited so be very careful with the body!

Happy modelling
Gary
 

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Hi Trav,

It looks like the brushes, brush spring, insulator & connector tag at least are missing.

If, when you get the parts & the motor smokes try cleaning the comm & making sure there is no dirt between the segments before binning the motor.

At least it's the standard old X04 motor, so you should be able to pick one up fairly easily.

The loco is probably collectable, but has it been repainted ?

best regards
Brian
 

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QUOTE At least it's the standard old X04 motor, so you should be able to pick one up fairly easily.

If these spares are required and you don't have another Triang loco to salvage spares from best to try and pick up a cheap running example of a Triang Jinty or Princess or Class 08 Diesel on Ebay rather than try and obtain the spares seperately. It is surprising the sort of prices these things fetch these days! Jinty runners with poor bodies still go for £12 to £15 because the spares are hard to come buy. Motors are normally a tenner and brushes are £2.50 each from those who sell these spares. Not cheap.

In saying that you can take these motors apart and put them back together again and swop things around. Its all good experiance.

Happy modelling
Gary
 

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@ Gary- Unfortionatly i dont have another wired up train.

@ dbclass50- the body was repainted before i got it, why i dont know.

Im rather young and inexperianced at these old trains, so knowing what type of engine it runs is a great help though i dont know what some of the parts you talk of are. i was thinking worst comes to worst, since its been repainted before i got it, i should just buy a new engine to replace the old one. Im planing on restoring it to its original livery, ive got two other old tri-ang trains 0-4-0 connie and the other is some AIA-AIA diesel.
 

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Connie should have a similar if not identical motor and wiring set up. Whilst it may be a non runner the chassis may have the parts that have been mentioned above. There are old service guides available.

I'll publish one here in the next day or two if I can find the one I've got. Its not where I thought it was else it would have already been published.

Happy modelling
Gary
 

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Gary,

Your chassis looks pretty well identical to a Triang pacific chassis (4-6-2) but with another 4 wheeled bogie in place of the rear pony truck.

All the advice you have been given is good. It looks to me as if all you need are the pick-ups, the hairpin shaped spring that holds them in place and a bit of wire, and an insulated sleeve to prevent short circuiting across the brushes. Can you use a soldering iron? You may need to in order to connect the pick ups to the insulated brush.

When you decide to strip off the red paint, take care, do be careful not to dissolve the body. I once used a bath of brake fluid, it worked well and left all the plastic undamaged.

Best of luck.

Colombo
 

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>i dont know what some of the parts you talk of are.
>>It looks like the brushes,
We know the "brushes" are gone because looking at your photo (nice one by the way, we can see almost everything we need to), we can see all of the "commutator" at the right hand end of the motor. The "commutator" is the copper coloured thing with three slots in it. Each of the three slots has tiny wire connections to the three "windings" on the "armature". These are to the left of the commutator. The function of the commutator is to provide an electrical connection for the 12vDC. The commutator is a moving part, so the electrical connection to it from the chassis is made through contact pressure from the "brushes". If you look at the top of the motor above the commutator you will see two slots. These are where the top end of the brushes fit.

As it stands at present, no brushes means no electrical contact to the windings. No electricity in the windings means no magnetic field to react against the permanent magnet at the left end of the motor. No reaction means no turning of the armature and no motion transmitted to the worm wheel.

I hope this helps.

David
 

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Thanks for the info and advice, i found a website that has great diagrams for the engines. both engines of connie and the baltic are in the same condition, except connies engine copper looks a little black so it may be burnt out.

just a few parts missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I tested both motors, connies turns with out smoke, but the baltic turns but has a little bit of smoke i think thats where im hitting the wires together though.
 

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Can you see where the smoke is coming from?

David
 

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>but it stopped smoking now
That's good, and it still works?

David
 

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Just a word of warning about the smoke.

Whilst the electrostatic smell of these old locomotives is evocative I read somewhere that its probably better not to breath in any of the smoke generated from a less than healthy motor as it contains all sorts of funny chemicals resulting from the reaction between the brushes and armature.

Non smoking motors are of course OK just in case those reading this are now thinking about binning their collections on the back of the smoke warning!


Hopefully Trav you will be able to pick up a few spares to get your loco running on the track.

Happy modelling
Gary
 

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I used to service the old Triang locos for a local dealer 45+ years ago to earn some extra pocket money. The usual cause of smoke from an X04 motor was surplus oil which had got onto the brushes or commutator due to over-enthusiastic oiling by the owner. This could be cleaned off by the careful application of 'Methylated Spirits'. There are other electrical cleaners available today, but on no account use WD40.

The other less frequent cause of smoke was lack of oil - the armature became stuck in the bearings and wouldn't turn - the high current that this allowed to pass through the motor windings overheated the wire and cooked the insulation.

So with any old motor, particularly the X04 type, my advice is that before applying any voltage to it:
(1) Check it turns easily, if does not, oil the bearings with a drop or two of oil, no more;
(2) Use an electrical cleaner with care to clean the commutator and brushes. Let the cleaner dry off before reassembling the motor and trying it out.

The 'electrostatic smell' mentioned by Gary is probably Ozone generated by sparking at the brushes; it is a very small amount but close breathing is certainly not recommended.

Best wishes,
John Webb
 
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