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Dragon Trainer
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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Thanks.for the comment.

So far this is the only GBL Loco to be completed.

I was tempted by the "Princess Coronation", but didn't get one.....

All the other releases have been resisted, but I have got two "Jinties" (Based on the Bachmann Tooling) awaiting work to fit motorised chassis.....

The Castle has been resisted, but the next two releases, the MR/LMS Compound 1000 and BR 4MT Tank Locos (Both based on Bachmann Tooling) are awaited!

I have an old Hornby Compound, which has lost one tender vent.


The 4mt looks promising, I have the Hornby Dublo and Bachmann versions of the 4MT....
 

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Your Hornby Compound - is it the earlier tender-drive 'Deeley' type with no coal rails - on a longer tender wheelbase - or the later SWB coal rail tender as used on the Patriot and later Hornby version of the compound ? - as I may have a spare complete tender top....
 

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QUOTE (6c8h @ 11 Sep 2014, 04:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Your Hornby Compound - is it the earlier tender-drive 'Deeley' type with no coal rails - on a longer tender wheelbase - or the later SWB coal rail tender as used on the Patriot and later Hornby version of the compound ? - as I may have a spare complete tender top....

Hi.

Sorry about the delay in posting.

The tender is the one without coal rails.



 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
The Great British locomotives series continues....

The next 2 locos are "Butler Henderson" GCR (an interesting loco...), and the power car of the Inter City 125 High Speed Train in original livery, in eraly Hornby Style it seems...).

The quality of these models does vary...look very closely to see that all the parts are there, and the basic quality, if you are buying! It is very easy to get one with bits missing, or other problems!

The 4MT Tank is OK, and is on the "To Do" List, along with the Jinty and Compound!
 

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Something that I have been planning for some time now....but I just had to do it today....

Using Tri-ang and Hornby rolling stock to represent the train.

My list of the train is:

Loco BOB "Winston Churchill" with 3 discs in a "V" shape. 2 on the smokebox door brackets, 1 on the lower centre bracket.

Brake Car No.208

SR PMV S2464S in special "Pullman style" livery. (The centre pair of doors were actually fitted with windows.)

First Class Car "CARINA"

First Class Car "LYDIA"

First Class Car "PERSEUS"

Brake Car "ISLE OF THANET"


The Locomotive is the Tri-ang Railways 1964-1965 Synchrosmoke version.



Brake Car No.208 (Tri-ang Railways 1964 Brake 2nd Car No.79)



The SR PMV as modelled by Hornby. This is the earlier solo release. R.4451



First Class Car "CARINA". (Tri-ang Railways 1965 Car "JANE")



First Class Car "LYDIA". (Tri-ang Railways 1959-1961 Car "RUTH")



First Class Car "PERSEUS". (Tri-ang Railways 1959-1961 Car "ANNE")



Brake Car "ISLE OF THANET" (Tri-ang Railways 1964 Brake 2nd Car No.79)

 

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I found it interesting that the "recent" Hornby "Railroad" GWR Class 2721 0-6-0 PT is much better detailed than the original Hornby Railways issue....

The 2 models. The original issue has been re-painted, etc....



The Railroad model. Note seperate handrails everywhere! Also, the safety valve is a far better moulding!





The original Hornby Railways model....with moulded handrails on the bunker, and the small handrails on the tanks...also a solid flat topped safety valve, the same as used on the 1970s Hornby Pannier taknt (8750)...



 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
A lot of my time has been taken up lately....with converting display models....

Great British Locomotives Collection

Issue 30. Released Wednesday April 1st. (Next issue, 31, due Wednesday 15th April. Southern Railway Maunsell N Class 2-6-0 Tender Loco in BR Black livery.)

GWR Pannier Tank and Shunter's Truck.

The body is a close copy in parts of the Tri-ang version, but the running plate is separate from the body (as with the GBL B12, which differs in many ways from the Tri-ang original, making motorisation a bit harder than the Caley Single 123!).

The top part of the tanks is separate, like the Tri-ang version, but the cab front is moulded as part of the tank top, while the Tri-ang one has the cab front as part of the cab.

The bottom of the boiler part is solid, as is the footplate, another separate part, so some cutting out will be required to fit a motorised chassis....
The whole front of the tanks,smokebox, and chimney is green instead of black.

There is a separate "brassy" coloured chimney cap, and the Safety Valve cover is a very good copy of the Tri-ang original&#8230;solid top, with a moulding seam!

The Coupling Rods are also very good copies of the Tri-ang type, and are both on upside down (and on the wrong sides!) on mine (and reported on others)...so just need changing over and inverting for a display model..

There is a mis-match with the number on the loco and the plaque. Loco No. 6717. Plaque No. 6719.

An interesting choice of numbers as well....Steam Brake Only, so Goods and shunting work (No ATC as well...).

6717 information....http://www.railuk.info/steam/getsteam.php?row_id=3209%20" target="_blank"> http://www.railuk.info/steam/getsteam.php?row_id=3209 </a>

GWR "Shirtbutton" Monogram.

Yellow C Route and Power Disk.

I do believe that it should be a Blue disk, as these locos were not re-classed as Yellow until 1950, under BR, in recognition to the locos "hammer-blow" being less than most Blue locos. (LMS 8fs were Blue under the GWR system!)

The Shunter's Truck is based on the Hornby example....the Hand Brake is in the "ON" position!

Mine is now on a set of Bachmann wheels, after drilling out the axleboxes and removing the fixing lugs from under the chassis, where there is a representation of the Drawgear Spring!

Nem pockets from Dapol attached on plastic card bases.

Hand brake handles carefully "bent" upwards to look a bit more "OFF"&#8230;

Photos&#8230;
The Loco, with the coupling rods removed and replaced the right way up, and on the right sides! (Glued in each end, centre free of glue. The glued pins likely to snap, but a dab of UHU, other glues are available, fixed that!).






The loco in pieces....The back buffer beam is also a separate part....





The Tri-ang Hornby Body missing the tank top is on the Left....





GBL...



Tri-ang Hornby...



The Shunter's Truck...Hornby inspired....cut off tops to the wheels...No Brake Shoes or Hangers!



Spot the Drawbar Spring detail...



Bachmann (Left) and GBL (Right)





GBL parts...



GBL on Bachmann wheels (Left) and Bachmann (Right)...Hornby Dublo 2-rail track in steel!



More photos of the Shunter's Truck conversion to come....
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
This is the old "Airfix" kit, now supplied by Dapol complete with metal wheelsets, and tension lock couplings of the later Airfix GMR type with adaptors to fit them to the kit chassis.

The opening doors are a feature, and these kits are often found "unloading" at model coal merchants sidings!

Yes, that is one thing this model may well get used for, though this one is fitted with a weight under the chassis, and NEM pocket couplings. (I may use Kadees or small tension locks&#8230;undecided at the moment&#8230;on Ffrwd Locks.

This model has been "Converted" to Morton "Either Side" brakes. (By the simple expedient of leaving one set of brake shoes off, and adding a cross shaft. (Yes, I know that one lever should have a "cam", but that is a "small" detail!
)

The Morton Braked Mineral wagons were "handed". The end door is to the left when looking at the brake shoe side...

It has no bottom doors. (C1951 Batch of BR Built Mineral Wagons&#8230;)NEM Couplings (Dapol). Metal Wheels (I will use some by Bachmann or the supplied Dapol...)

Part numbers, etc. were removed carefully with a sharp "chisel" type knife blade. Top and end door joints scribed in. Moulding marks filled.

Metal drawbar coupling hooks fitted
The chassis cross members in the centre were removed to make space for the weight. This is a little deep, but will do for me, as it was in stock.

Other weights like shot could be used by filling in the spaces between the cross members...

The wagon is still to be painted...

Photos&#8230;











 

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looks good, Sarah
- I have been wondering about a few of these for my layout as all my open wagons are PO and a little early for my current project. TBH though with the price of the same wagon RTR for £8 and assembled/unpainted for £6, I don't know if I can be bothered. On the other hand, I like building kits...
 

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Thanks Gavin.

Bachmann 16 ton Minerals (the newer ones) are the "proper" length. Apparently the Mainline/ Replica Railways/ early Bachmann wagons are too long, and on a 10ft Wheelbase chassis against the "proper" 9 ft wheelbase.

I traded in my too big ones and have some newer Bachmann ones for Ffrwd Locks now. But I have one without top flap doors that may have to go, or have top doors added, as it seems that these were later than the early 1950s!

The Dapol Mineral's openeing doors are why I got this one, for the posing opportunities!

On a similar vein, I have an Airfix Cattle Wagon Kit, and an Airfix Meat Van Kit in stock. These both have opening doors, and are very good detail especailly considering that the tooling dates from the 1960s!

The best thing is to keep an eye out for the original Airfix Kits, they can sometimes be got cheaper than the Dapol versions. The Dapol metal wheels and couplings/ adaptors are not included in the Airfix versions, but can be bough in separtely anyway, and you may want to use something else anyway.

The Polystyrene is "better" in the Airfix kits...Dapol use a "softer" mix apparently!
 

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You are right about the plastic, it's a country mile better in the old kits and the mouldings are much crisper as the tools were newer. I have about 20 cattle wagons in the drawer which I bought in an unseen auction lot, don't need them all though! Might get around to them one day, still wondering whether to build one fully and move on, or do them as a production line finishing one stage on each!
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
Hi Gavin.

I think it may be easier on space, and possibly sanity to do one at a time?

Or possibly 2...doing something on 1 while the glue/ paint. etc. is setting on the other?

The cattle wagon's opening doors make a nice senario with a cattle dock and a few cows...check they are the right breed and colour (livery?) for your time zone though!


You can also convert the Cattle Wagon into an ALE CASK wagon (Dapol have done this with the Hornby Dublo/ Wrenn Cattle Wagon they are still using)....and it is possible to convert one into the GWR type from which the BR type decended, with a bit of LMS input it seems...
 

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GBL GWR Shunter's Truck. Re-wheeled and couplings fitted. Part 2.

The model has had the locating pillars removed, the axle boxes drilled and cut out with a small drill bit in a Pin-Vice, and using Beraing Reamers. (DCC Concepts...othe rmakes are available...)

The NEM Pockets and couplings are from a bag made by Dapol. (No instructions provided...anyone got a set of instructions for using the Dapol Nem Pockets?)

They are mounted on plastic card bases, also using a bit of sprue for a locoating pillar and some plastic strip as locating/ spacer parts.

The Hand Brake handles (Supplied in th eON Position) have been bent up a bit to look a bit more like they are OFF...a fault carried over from the Hornby models...

The Toolbox has stuffed with lead bits for weight...held in by UHU glue. The Hornby model has a cast metal tool box!

Some numbers and other lettering to do...and a new location...possibly Wrexham...

Photos...









Toolbox stuffed with lead bits for weight...The Hornby model has a cast metal tool box!

 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
GBL B12 4-6-0. Taken apart and modified to fit a Tri-ang Hornby Synchrosmoke Chassis. Part 1.

Complete GBL Loco and Tender..







Tri-ang Hornby BR B12 Loco and Tender 1964- (The driver should be on the other side I think...B12 Right Hand Drive?)









TH Chassis with body removed...



TH Tender...



GBL Parts 1









TH body TOP. GBL under...



GBL body TOP. TH Chassis and Body under...



GBL Boiler Parts...











TH Tender Body on GBL Chassis LEFT...GBL Body on TH Chassis RIGHT...





GBL Tender LEFT. TH Tender RIGHT...

 

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GBL B12 4-6-0. Taken apart and modified to fit a Tri-ang Hornby Synchrosmoke Chassis. Part 2.

GBL Parts modified to fit Tri-ang Hornby B12 Chassis... It is probably NOT a good idea to use a smoke unit with the GBL plastic being a softer blend than that which Tri-ang Hornby used. The GBL body may just melt!




GBL Footplate cut out to clear TH B12 Chassis...





GBL modified Body on TH Chassis. Not glued together yet...painting to be done. (NE Wartime Black probably! Like a Hornby release of the B12!)





The tender is still in the works....
 

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QUOTE (sarah @ 11 Apr 2015, 10:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...
The NEM Pockets and couplings are from a bag made by Dapol. (No instructions provided...anyone got a set of instructions for using the Dapol Nem Pockets?)

...

Yes, I do - I emailed Dapol for instructions once having had the same issue. Reply was as follows:

"OK For each end of the chassis you should have 3 plastic pieces, the hook and a screw.

1/ Take the piece which doesn't have the L shaped projections and turn it so the block on the one end is uppermost.

2/ The tension lock coupling has a projection on the one end of the d bar. Turn the coupling so that this projection alos points up.

3/ Push the coupling into the block.

4/ Take the piece with the L shaped projections and put it over the coupling shaft on the bottom of the chassis such tha the L sticks up.

5/ Put the assmebly from 3 onto the shaft making sure it passes between the legs of 4/.

6/ Screw down ensuring you do not over tighten."

the L shaped bit is the centering spring. HTH?
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
QUOTE (lmsboy @ 11 Apr 2015, 10:43) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Yes, I do - I emailed Dapol for instructions once having had the same issue. Reply was as follows:

"OK For each end of the chassis you should have 3 plastic pieces, the hook and a screw.

1/ Take the piece which doesn't have the L shaped projections and turn it so the block on the one end is uppermost.

2/ The tension lock coupling has a projection on the one end of the d bar. Turn the coupling so that this projection alos points up.

3/ Push the coupling into the block.

4/ Take the piece with the L shaped projections and put it over the coupling shaft on the bottom of the chassis such tha the L sticks up.

5/ Put the assmebly from 3 onto the shaft making sure it passes between the legs of 4/.

6/ Screw down ensuring you do not over tighten."

the L shaped bit is the centering spring. HTH?

Thanks...you got more from Dapol than I did.

So, the instructons are for fitting to a Dapol chassis....

I am fitting to non-Dapol models, and so have to coble it together.

I had managed to work out the positions for the various parts, but as I have no in-built "shaft" I have to make something up. Funnily enough the two wagons I have "done" so far use a bit of Dapol Sprue from the Mineral Wagon kit as the "Coupling Shaft".

It is good to see that I got it right after all!
 
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