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· Dragon Trainer
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The Airfix Cattle Wagon...

The chassis has been weighted with laed sheet underneath...

The brake cross shaft and Vacuum Cylinder linkage has been represented with wire...









Finished....

The original Airfix transfers tended to break up on application, especially the wagon numbers, which needed some replacements from a HMRS Presfix sheet.

This was one of the more recent Airfix kits (The pictured instructions being from a much earlier kit!) and were worse than the older transfers used on the Brake Van and Meat Van!

20g of extra weights were added inside the wagon, at each end...2 X 10g...

The "Clean" and "Do Not Feed" legends are from an old Modelmasters chalk lettering sheet...










The Airfix Meat Van Kit...


The chassis was going to be weighted with laed sheet underneath...but I got hold of some better weights.

These were too big to go under the floor, so were added on top of the floor to either end...20g in 2X 10g weights.

The brake cross shaft and Vacuum Cylinder linkage has been represented with wire...









Finished...well almost!


The roof is not glued on yet.

I may add some interior detail....and I do not know what colour the inside should be!


The "Crewe" legend is from an old Modelmasters chalk lettering sheet...

This kit transfer sheet actually came with more than one wagon number....













The opening doors are a feature of the Airfix Meat Van and Cattle Wagon kits. (Also the 16 Ton Mineral Wagon, and the Interfrigo Ferry van as well!)

In the case of the meat van, one side door hinge broke, and so that side is now glued shut.

The Cattle wagon top doors use the same hinges as the Meat Van doors.

The bottom door uses the same hinges as the 16 Ton Mineral Wagon.

It can be a bit of a problem keeping the hinges free of paint!

They are also rather fragile!

The chalk markings transfers are OK, but a lot of the writing seems to be a bit on the large size.

The sheets do include the "Condemmed" Cross-in-a-circle, and the word "Condemmed" as well....
 

· Dragon Trainer
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Regarding weathering Mineral wagons...

I have a few differnt types, and I am attempting to portray differnt ages, therefore weathering...


The earliest is still in MOT livery, so is in theory the muckiest!




There is also a slope sided mineral in BR grey, so a more recent re-paint...




The earlier BR number and load were painted on seperate patches, so this is one...it also has the earlier pattern pressed steel end door...




This one is probably of a similar vintage to the Dapol Kit Mineral wagon...



The Dapol Kit...




The newest is one without top flap doors, and so is meant to be the cleanest!




Before being worked upon...


 

· Dragon Trainer
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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
More Mineral Wagons...

This time the first Bachmann 3-pack of Wooden wagons...Private Owner liveries...

These were maent to be pre-nationalistaion, well I have added BR "P" prefix numbers, and a bit more muck....

Before:




After:














 

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I really enjoyed the Airfix Meat Van build post Sarah .......... it took me back to my own struggles. I remember the trial and error of drilling out the axle boxes to take the cone and cup metal wheel sets and the pleasure I felt when I got the wagon to run true. Kit building and the detailing and weathering of r-t-r wagons is an activity that I must get back to.

You keep the spirit of hands on modelling alive.

Best regards ................ Greyvoices (alias John)
 

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Me too, never paid much attention to Airfix but having made a couple of Parkside Pallet vans then I am getting the bug, may have a Wrenn chassis or two spare, I just love a range of vans of different types as I remember, long trains of brown, bauxite, maroon, dirty, and every variation in between, great stuff.

Thanks for the pics Sarah (Grr another one shows up my deficiencies)
 

· Dragon Trainer
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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
Thanks for the comments....

It really iis not too hard to get the Airfix Chassis to work.

Plain brass bearings can be obtained from many outlets...

The Airfix chassis can be fitted with the PECO type couplings, and the older X.171 Tri-ang type tension lock couplings are not too hard to fit either....

To fit te Parkside NEM mountings, I had to shave the Airfix coupling mounting down falt with the framing.

The Parkside mounting has too flanges, which need shaving down falt with the base.

A thin, almost paper thin, plastic card shim between the Mounting and the Airfix frame was required for the Kadee couplings...using th eKadee Height Gauge.

Tension lock couplings are a bit more tolerant of th eodd millimetre up or down it seems!
 

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Nice work - good that you got the original old Airfix kits (rather than Dapol) as the mouldings shoul be a lot sharper. I built many of these kits and find it very therapeutic in that you actually create something. What photo site have you used as I have totally given up on photobucket...
 

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QUOTE (reddo @ 4 Feb 2018, 12:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Nice work - good that you got the original old Airfix kits (rather than Dapol) as the mouldings shoul be a lot sharper. I built many of these kits and find it very therapeutic in that you actually create something. What photo site have you used as I have totally given up on photobucket...

Flickr (< Link) is a good host, free and has a LOT of storage space, 1TB (1,000 Gigabytes) of storage in fact!!.

If you do sign up to flickr, check the "how to post images from flickr" link in my sig
 

· Dragon Trainer
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I have fitted NEM pockets and NEM Kadee couplings to the Hornby 0-6-0 (Jinty type chassis, also used by other models!)

My method centres on the two end screws, that hold the Hornby large tension lock couplings on, and also hold the ends of the "baseplate" to the metal chassis block.


As these screws cannot be left off without the baseplate flexing, they (or similar, longer,) screws need to remain part of the assembly.


You may find that you couls fit a Kadee Draft Gear Box in position, using the coupling mounting screw. (Possibly needing a longer screw...)

The height would need a suitable Kadee coupling (underset, in line, or Overset Shank) fitting.

The Kadee height gauge is pretty useful...



Fitting MEM pocket to Hornby 0-6-0 Chassis..


My first step is to remove both couplings, and the remaining fixing screws, then remove the base plate moulding completely.

I cut the tail from a NEM socket (I use Dapol NEM couplings from a spares pack as these have a large flat tail with a hole, which can be cut off altogether, or shortened to suit...)

Placed in the correct position I mark and drill, with a drill bit that just clears the screw, a hole through the pocket, that lines up with the coupling screw hole.

I find the position by trying a pocket, fitted with a NEM Tension Lock Coupling, in place BEFORE removing the baseplate.

The end of the coupling "loop" should be in line, or just in front of, the buffer head face.


With the pocket in position, lined up with the screw hole (You can put a suitable screw or dowel through the holes to line them up...) I mark around the pocket, also around the protruding ends of the NEM coupling "Swallow Tail".

This area, the size of the pocket, plus the coupling "tails" is cut out from the baseplate.


Do this for both ends....


With the Baseplate back on the loco (One of the "middle" scews holds it in place), the pocket is carefully glued in place.

If the pocket is the right way up, and is level with the face of the baseplate that sits onto the metal chassis block, the height of the coupling is correct in my experience...


Suitable screws can be inserted to hold the pockets in place while the glue sets.

I also use plastic strip as shims if the hole cut for the pocket in the baseplate needs packing.

Thick superglue, or Plastic Cement (Plastic weld, Precision Poly, Contacta Professional) can be used.

The original coupling screws are now probably too short....so you need to get hold of some longer self-tapping screws of about the same diameter as the original screws. (I use some other Hornby screws that I have...)

When the glue has set, I remove the baseplate, and reinforce the glue joints on the other side, that which goes against the metal chassis block.

The selected NEM coupling (Kadee NEM or Tension Lock NEM) needs to be drilled through to clear the fixing screw.

I do this by inserting the coupling (Make sure it is the right way up!). I then carefully and slowly drill through the NEM pocket and the coupling.

This should (hopefully) only put a "notch" into the swallow tails of the coupling.

The final stage is to re-assemble the baseplate onto the locomotive chassis.

The end screws go through the NEM pocket and coupling, and into the metal chassis block, holding it all together.

IF the NEM coupling pulls out too easily, it would be necessary to glue it in place.

I have found no problems so far, and can even swap Kadee or Tension loco couplings, simply by removing the end screws, swapping the NEM couplings, and putting the screws back in..

Both types need clearance holes drilled through the tails though!




More Kadee and NEM pocket information here&#8230;


www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/76497-sarahs-projects/?p=2780208
 

· Dragon Trainer
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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
QUOTE (reddo @ 4 Feb 2018, 12:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Nice work - good that you got the original old Airfix kits (rather than Dapol) as the mouldings shoul be a lot sharper. I built many of these kits and find it very therapeutic in that you actually create something. What photo site have you used as I have totally given up on photobucket...

Thanks all for the comments...

Photobucket has kicked the bucket...and gone all expensive.

I use a couple of places...

This one is being good so far!


https://postimages.org/
 

· Dragon Trainer
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Dapol and Hornby OO Gauge Terriers&#8230;





"Fenchurch" No.672 in a "Brighton Works" livery. (2012) This loco has been restored to a later A1 format...

http://www.brightonmodelworld.com/wp-conte...works_small.jpg

The Dapol (& now Hornby) model is a hybrid, with A1X sandboxes on the chassis, and an A1 length smokebox (some models have a spacer ring pre-fitted at the factory to lengthen the smokebox to A1X length.).

The models also have A1 (pre-re-build) splasher mounted sandboxes, the "vents" on the tank tops (from the A1 condensing system I believe), but no "wings" on the front of the smokebox/sandboxes on the footplate.

Most models seem to be fitted with the added Vacuum braking ejector pipe, which runs from the cab front to the smokebox, as well as a Westinghouse Air Brake pump on the eight hand cab side, but only have one brake pipe fitted, which looks more like a Vacuum brake pipe than an Air Brake pipe&#8230;

With the locos when new is a bag of parts, which can, with some modification to the base model, be used to convert the locos to other varieties.



There is a pair of pipes, which are the condensing system pipes, which run from the top of the tank fronts into the sides of the smokebox (Copper coloured on Boxhill, see the recent Model Rail article).

There is a plain (not Salter Safety Valves) boiler dome, and a set of Ross Pop type safety valves. I, would assume these are for one of the "sold on" locos...

There is a spacer ring to lengthen the smokebox to A1X length. This fits onto the smokebox front, after this has been carefully removed (the glue bond can be strong!) from the boiler. The smokebox front mounting flange is long enough to go through the ring and still locate into the boiler.

There is a set of coal rails, with a coal load moulded in. This is the simplest part to fit, as it locates into the top of the coal bunker

Fitting the A1X smokebox extension ring.

The smokebox front can be pretty well glued in place.
It needs careful persuasion to part the glue bond.
There is a small location pin on the bottom of the smokebox front, which locates into a slot in the bottom of the boiler.

When the smokebox front finally surrenders, it may well be found easier to fit the extension ring over the location flange of the smokebox front with the handrail removed.

The location pin on the smokebox front locates into the cut out in the extension ring. The two recesses are designed to clear the handrail knobs, but may prove too shallow.

I glued the extension ring to the smokebox front, and when the glue had set hard, drilled out the handrail knob locations with a small drill, before gluing the handrail back in place.

(The first attempt I made, without drilling the holes out a bit, the handrail knobs pushed the extension ring away from the smokebox front!)

It will be noted that there is now no positive location pin to align the smokebox front onto the boiler!
This is where care and attention will be needed when gluing the smokebox front to the boiler, to get the hinge vertical&#8230;

If you are going to remove the splasher sandboxes, do not glue the smokebox front into place yet!

Speaking of "vertical", the lower handle on the smokebox door should point vertically Down, as this is the catch handle. The model comes with this handle at the "twenty-five to " position!
I carefully carved the handle away from the bottom, meeting with a cut across the top at the centre boss.
I then re-glued the removed section in the correct place!

I have removed the weight from the boiler (held in by a screw from underneath) and made a hole from the boiler to the motor area by chain drilling around the inside of the boiler from the smokebox end.
This makes an access to the boiler from the motor area when the smokebox front is re-attached.
I have not yet reattached the smokebox front; it is at present just slotted into place.
I have yet to fit a DCC chip, and may need access!

Removing the A1 splasher mounted sandboxes.

The front splasher sandboxes need to be removed. This is not so easy, as the earlier Model Rail article found.

I worked out that there are a couple of places where it is not so dangerous to cut with a fine razor saw.


Cut 1
is across the diagonal from the end of the splasher, to the side of the smokebox saddle, horizontally to form the base line.

Cut 2
is again a diagonal cut, but vertically downwards to meet cut 1, across the corner of the sandbox top.

Cut 3
is across the remaining sandbox part, just above the top of the splasher, until just before the smokebox.

The top flap thus made can be prised up with a small screwdriver (or similar), and then cut off with a sharp modelling knife.

The remaining sections of sandbox then need to be carefully trimmed away, hopefully leaving the splasher side intact, and a squared off vertical flat smokebox saddle.

There should be a rectangular hole. About half is in the footplate, and half in the front part of the splasher top.

The first repair section I applied was a piece of plastic card, running from the rear of the splasher hole, to the position of the front of the smokebox extension ring, where it meets the smokebox front (This bing plugged loosely into place to get the measurement.)

The height of this plastic section should be the same as the smokebox saddle.

The real smokebox saddle has a distinct concave curve to it.

This could be ignored, or fiddly job made to get it right (I do not think it worth while, as the splasher and clack valve pipes would also need attention, as both are joined to the boiler!)

I used round files, and put a groove into the vertical smokebox saddle side&#8230;better than nothing?

Patching the holes!...


The hole in the footplate is patched from the inside with a piece of plastic card. Making sure that it does not obstruct the wheels&#8230;
The hole now left, in the splasher, is patched with a pre-curved section of plastic card.
If required, careful application of filler may fill any gaps&#8230;

I was lucky, and managed to retain the splasher lining.

Check photos, but most A1X locos did not retain the tank top vents, in ront of the tank filler caps.

These have locating pegs that protude into the tank tank tops inside the body. In my case, using a flat item, such as the handle of a craft khife or screwdriver, I simply pushed them out from inside, breaking the glue bond.

The holes were patched with plastic card squares on the inside, and plastic rod in the hole, with glue as filler. You may find some plastic sprue or rod of the correct daimeter, which could be glued into the holes, and then trimmed off flush with the tank tops. Or make small circular "blanks" to attach over the holes, like the real thing!

The prominent lubricator bowls for the cylinders have been represented with brass handrail knobs, inserted into holes drilled into the smokebox saddle.

I will be fitting these to the other (BR) Terrier, which represents KESR No. 3; BR 32670, which had an A1X boiler fitted by the K&ESR, but retained the tank vents, and splasher mounted sandboxes. (It does have a unique bunker extension though!)

On these A1 sandboxes, the lubricators are mounted on the front, nearest the smokebox. On A1s the lubricators are in the same place, on the smokebox wing plates.


Vacuum, Air or both forms of braking?


From photos, Stepney has had the Westinghouse air braking system removed. . (By BR I believe...)

http://www.semgonlin...eam/a1x_07.html

This loco is preserved in A1X (Re-built) condition, with extension "coal rails" on the bunker, but in Stroudley livery.
The Westinghouse Air Brake system and pump has been removed, therefore this loco should only have vacuum pipes on the buffer beams, and the Vacuum ejector pipe on the Left Hand side of the boiler.

Dapol and Hornby models seem to all come with this pipe fitted. It is the plastic pipe that runs from the front of the cab to the smokebox. The vacuum brake control would be mounted on the rear of the cab front where the pipe joins the cab.

The Westinghouse pump also seems to be a standard fitting, on the right hand cab side.

On Vacuum only braked locos, this needs removing. (It is best to see a photo of the real version of your loco to check!)
This is held on by two pins in two holes, and can be carefully prised to break the glue bond.
The holes then need plugging.

Colour matching touch up paint may be a small problem&#8230;.












Brighton Works, No. 32635


Brighton Works, No. 32635, in the September 1962 photo (Earlier Model Rail article, and on the web.), was dual braked, and retained the Westinghouse pump.



https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railw...nes/i-XTCjrdh/A

From....

https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railw...R-tank-engines/

There is a photo of the Westinghouse pump side on this site...which is of more Brighton interest!

http://thebrightonmotivepowerdepots.yolasi...on-loco-men.php

This loco also has both Air and Vacuum brake hoses on each buffer beam.

The standard fitted brake pipes most closely, in my opinion, resemble Vacuum brake pipes.

I fitted two new brake pipes from a batch of spare parts. I think they may be Dapol parts
These, being smaller, make very good Air Brake pipes.









Couplings and DC fitting.

Kadee couplings, or NEM sockets, are still to be fitted.

DCC is still to be fitted.
 

· Dragon Trainer
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QUOTE (sarah @ 7 Feb 2018, 17:58) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks all for the comments...

Photobucket has kicked the bucket...and gone all expensive.

I use a couple of places...

This one is being good so far!


https://postimages.org/


I spoke too soon!


For some reason the web site address for the image links has been changed, so all existing mage tags no longer work!


Prevoius link...

(Square bracket) url=https://postimg.org/image/rkhoq41w5/][img(sqare bracket)https://s26.postimg.org/70curmm55/Airfix_GMR_Fitted_Toad_BR_modified_1.jpg[/img][/url(Square Bracket)

New Link..

(Square bracket) url=https://postimg.cc/image/rkhoq41w5/][img(sqare bracket)https://s26.postimg.cc/70curmm55/Airfix_GMR_Fitted_Toad_BR_modified_1.jpg[/img][/url(Square Bracket)

So, where they can be edited, you need to change every instance of postimg.org to postimg.cc to get the links to work again.

The links on this forum are not able to be simply edited, so all images from this particla host will have "gone".
 

· C55
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Hi Sarah,
I like the turntable very much. Is that the Dapol one? Love the colour, it looks rather LSWR?

The Photobucket thing is odd, there seems to be a lack of information about what they are / are not doing, let alone when ...... I suppose patience [and probably another server] might eventually produce an answer. [??]

Kind regards

Julian
 

· Dragon Trainer
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Thanks.

The turntable is the older Hornby "Geneva Gear" drive Turntable, re-built with some parts from the Dapol (Ex Airfix) Turntable kit

Some details here...quite a few posts tell the story!

http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...st&p=278419

As to Photobucket....strange things can happen...

But the the Post Image fiasco was annoying....

Liknks changing for no apparent reason and without notice!


It is not so bad if you can edit the links....but not everywher allows editing of past posts!
 

· Dragon Trainer
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Oxford Rail 6 Wheel 'Toad' Later Plated Version...Modified

The Later 'Plated' versions of the Oxford Rail GWR 'Toad' Brakevans have a few small problems....

The plating does not extend to the ends....

The 'rear' window is wrong. (Being apparently based on a preserved Toad with modifications!)

There are two lamp irons on the 'rear' sides, that should not be there. (Very early Toads had hatches in the sides to allow side lamps to be placed on these lamp irons, but the model does not have the hatches....which were done away with by the GWR anyway!)

Dismantled Toad...there are two screws under the NEM pockets. The body is a bit awkward to remove, as the spigots of the buffers protude through the buffer beams, and get in the way of removing the body...the body is also a very good fit onto the base...

But with much struggling I succeeded in parting the parts from each other!



The base, whch has some details, which are basically invisible when assembled. The representation of the stove is not very good though!



The body inside...the partition is not glued in place, so can be removed easily...



Chassis underside, shewing the screw holes ....access will usually involve removing some ofthe delicate brake rodding!



The 'rear' window and the side windows,are one piece of clazing, glued in place. The large 'wrong' window was cut out very carefully from the two side windows. The window framing was cut out very carefully, and the framing around the outside of what should in fact be a hatch to allow acess to the 'rear' lamp bracket, made good. I used a new Hornby GWR Toad model to copy the details!

The two side windows were kept to one side, to be re-fitted after painting...



The hole was patched on the inside with a plasticard patch, slightly bigger than the hole. The hatch was made from plasticard scribed for planking, and glued into the hole.



Plating on the 'rear' was added using plasticard, again the Hornby model was used as a pattern....unfortunately, I got two thicknesses mixed up, and the 'rear' plating was made too thick....and I didn't notice until it was glued in place!


Some rivet detail was added by using a pointed tool on the 'inside', using the Hornby Toad as inspiration!



The 'rear' lamp iron needed moving. The actual iron is metal, 'L' shaped, and fits into a hole. The base of the lamp iron is moulded into the body...so this needed carving off, and a new hole and lamp iron base added to the plating...

The two 'rear' side lamp irons were removed, lamp iron bases carved off, and the small holes filled.

The 'front' or veranda end was plated in the same way....but I used thinner plastic card this time!







A representation of the lever to operate the 'rear' sandboxes mounted on the veranda side of the partition was made from a piece of wire, painted with a white end. Also, some plastic strip and rod was used to make a representation of the veranda end sanbox operating lever and rods...Again copied from the Hornby model...

The result is not in any way perfect, as the framing should be on top of the plating....but I think it looks a bit better than planking?

The body was re-painted BR unfitted stock grey, as there was a small diffeence in the colour applied by Oxford Rail.

New lettering (Croes Newydd) and numbers to be added....and the small holes need a little more filling....









 
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