Ruffnut's Projects.

The Hatchette Mk 1 SK dismantled...

(Most of these photos were taken after the re-paint work...)



The bogies are "clip fit" like old Hornby coaches. The clips can be fragile, so proceed to lever them off with care!





The Bogies removed...





The close coupling system revealed after carefully prising off the clip in bogie...



Carefully moving the close coupler to one side reveals one of the three fixing screws, that hold the body in place...There is also one in the middle of the coach, and of course another under the other bogie...(Posed photo, the body is off in these pics!)



The screw hole with the screw removed..



The underside shewing the middle screw, and one end screw (Close coupling unit removed.)



The underside. all 3 screws removed. (Close coupling units removed.)



The bogies shewing the clips...Replacement Hornby Metal wheelsets installed. (The bearing holes may need easing slightly. A job for a special tool, or a small hand drill...)









After removing the 3 screws, which screw into the interior unit, the body can be carefully removed from the chassis. I have marked the "Lav" end of the chassis, so it goes back the right way around... Note the metal weight.



The body with the roof removed. (clip fit.)





The roof...above and below...





The body sides, outside and inside...





The roof and body sides shewing the locating clips...


The interior unit...





The chassis underside with the body removed.



For the re-paint, I removed the glazing. This is pegged and glued in place, but the glue joints can be broken by carefully prising the glazing away, a bit at a time...

[img[http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/gallery/album_2911/gallery_12119_2911_129094.jpg[/img]



The window ventilators are moulded into the glazing unit, and can be painted carefully before re-fitting the glazing...



The almost finished (Requires numbering...) coach...

The "Mallard" from the "Great British Locomotives Collection" Partwork dismantled...

The complete model on the base...The loco and tender are both screwed to the base from below with spacers. 2 for the loco, and 2 for the tender. The screws are cross head, and in quite tight!



The front of the loco...



Inside the cab 1...



Inside the cab 2..



The tender 1...



The tender 2...



The tender 3...



The tender 4...



The tender 5...the top. The coal seems to be a bit low? The filler cap looks to be a bit tall? (One for the A4 experts!)



The tender 6...the underside. Cast metal wheels. Each is separate, no through axles.



Loco underside. The tender coupling screw also holds the back of the chassis in place. Note the unflanged trailing truck wheels. A fixed truck. Hornby Style! Cast metal wheels. Each is separate, no through axle.



Tender coupling removed...



The front bogie. Cast metal wheels. each is separate, no through axles. The screw is the front securing screw for the chassis. The bogie is permanently attached. Not screw fitted.



Side view of the complete chassis. Probably the same chassis will be used for the A3? (and maybe others...)



Underside of the chassis. A self-tapping screw in the underside holds on the "keeper plate" with the brake gear. (Crudely screwed in. The chassis plate was designed to be glued in place...)



Chassis. Flexible plastic cylinders and rods. Cast metal driving wheels. Some flash, and bits around the edges. (An all in one casting including "axles". The wheels do NOT revolve!).



Self tapping screw removed...



The "Keeper plate" removed...exposing the Driving Wheel casting web...(Note the "chewed" middle location hole for a "pin" on the keeper plate, caused by the self-tapping screw...)



The chassis with the driving wheels, etc. removed. The casting "clips" into place.



Top view of the chassis...



Side view of the chassis...



The Driving wheels, rods and cylinders 1. The cylinders simply fit onto two thin pins on the chassis. The cylinders and valve gear are flexible silvered plastic.[/b]



Driving wheels, rods and cylinders 2. The underside...



Driving wheels, rods and cylinders 3...



The body underside. The black plate is a push fit into place around the front fixing screw mounting, with a pin moulded onto the plate engaging in a location pillar towards the back.



The black plate removed to show the inside of the body...



Inside the body..



Note that the front body fixing pillar is NOT on the centreline. It is to the right of centre when looking at the body from underneath!

The pillar in the firebox that only locates the black cover plate needs to be shortened or removed to clear a Tri-ang Hornby X.04 motor fitted A3 (Flying Scotsman, also used for the original LMS Streamline "Coronation" locos.) chassis.

The Tender...

The GBL Mallard Tender Dismantled...

The Mallard tender body is glued to the chassis, there are 2 lugs at the back, roughly in line with the buffers. One broke off on mine. These should be eased first. The centre front fixing pin should then break free when the tender body is eased up at the back.













The GBL Mallard tender body is a bit narrower than a Tri-ang Hornby A3 tender body.

The GBL base with the spacers (loose) and fixing screws in place.



The spacers and fixing screws.



The GBL base top. Note that there are spare holes, for mounting other locos in the collection...



The GBL base underside.



There is plenty of room inside the loco body.

A Tri-ang Hornby chassis and tender to fit?

Yes, a later X.04 motor fitted "Flying Scotsman" A3 chassis has been modified and fits using the two original body fixing points...

See later post on here...

The GBL Mallard motored...

The GBL and Hornby Chassis compared...



The Hornby Chassis test fitted into the GBL Body...



The chassis used is a later X.04 (well, a new type X.03 with the plastic worm and no oil pads!) Tri-ang Hornby (probably Hornby Railways) "Flying Scotsman" Chassis. It has the later finer driving wheels, with the centre drivers also having flanges.

The GBL Mallard body requires the black plate locating pillar in the firebox removing or shortening to clear the chassis.
The flange under the back of the cab footplate requires removing to be flush with the side footplates, to clear the swinging rear truck.

Locating pillar shortened and rear body modified to clear the Hornby Chassis...



After the locating pin was removed, further trials...





The modifications required to the chassis would be the same for any of the "Flying Scotsman" and LMS Streamline "Coronation"chassis based on the reversed B12 /Hall chassis block with the screw on cast box that originally held the bulb for the "firebox glow" feature. (This could even be fitted if required!).

The Cast box is best modified off the chassis.

Chassis Mods. Back box filed down...



Rear fixing hole drilled out to clear fixing screw pillar on GBL body...



Front plate notch for front fixing screw...



Cylinders filed down in width...



Test fitted with chassis located on rear pillar...too far back!



Side view...



With bogie and trailing track fitted...how I found out that the chassis needed to go forwards in the body...



The chassis body fixing hole turned out to be to far towards the front of the loco. It needs to be opened out to a slot (that clears the back body mounting pillar) towards the back of the chassis, to allow the chassis to be moved forwards.

A small washer and a new short screw are required to fit the back mounting point. (The original GBL screw is too long.)
The modified rear fixing...



A fair amount of the rear cast box needs to be cut and/or filed from the back of the box to clear the inside of the Mallard firebox backhead. (see photo above...)

The front chassis extension should be marked for a notch to clear the front body fixing screw, noting that the front body fixing pillar is to the right of the body centreline. The cylinders can be removed, and the extension is also screwed in place and so can be removed to make modification easier.

Another small washer, notched to clear the chassis extension side, is used with the original GBL front body fixing screw to mount the front of the chassis.

The modified front fixing...



The Tender...

The Mallard tender body is glued to the chassis, there are 2 lugs at the back, roughly in line with the buffers. One broke off on mine. These should be eased first. The centre front fixing pin should then break free when the tender body is eased up at the back.

The GBL Mallard tender body is a bit narrower than a Tri-ang Hornby A3 tender body.

The two tenders compared...



To fit the GBL Mallard tender body to the Tri-ang Hornby tender chassis, the body locating strips on both sides and the back of the Tri-ang Hornby tender chassis need to be removed.

New side locating strips from styrene strip can then be fitted to suit the GBL Mallard tender body. These are roughly along the inside edge of the Tri-ang Hornby locating strips just removed. Measure your tender body to check...

The back locating strip is also a bit forward of the Tri-ang Hornby strip. This needs to be positioned so that the front of the tender is flush with the front of the tender chassis. There will be a small "flange" around the two sides and the back of the GBL Mallard tender body when mounted on the Tri-ang Hornby Tender chassis.

New white styrene (blacked on the top and outside) side and rear locating strips on the Tri-ang Hornby Tender Chassis...



The Modified Tender Chassis (with repaired coupling loop!) compared with a later Hornby "Sound Fitted" tender chassis...



A small strip of styrene needs to be glued under the front of the tender footplate to engage with the front locating strip on the tender chassis.

If the GBL Mallard tender coal space and coal load are properly glued in place (Mine fell apart easily, so I re-glued it together.), a small hole can be drilled in the coal space (Not the coal) to line up with the hole in the tender chassis, and the original Tri-ang Hornby tender body securing screw and collar used. (With the packing as well if required. Or the weight can be glued down.)

The location to drill the tender fixing screw hole indicated, and the new front locating strip added from white styrene strip...



The complete model before wheel painting...







The wheels then need to be painted red (Signal Red in my case...)

Wheels painted...





Final Body Fixings...











A Bachmann Loco crew fitted...(The Driver's seat needed mending!) Some pipes and gauges, etc coloured in...





Two LNER loco head lamps by Dart Castings finish the job...

Thanks.for the comment.

So far this is the only GBL Loco to be completed.

I was tempted by the "Princess Coronation", but didn't get one.....

All the other releases have been resisted, but I have got two "Jinties" (Based on the Bachmann Tooling) awaiting work to fit motorised chassis.....

The Castle has been resisted, but the next two releases, the MR/LMS Compound 1000 and BR 4MT Tank Locos (Both based on Bachmann Tooling) are awaited!

I have an old Hornby Compound, which has lost one tender vent.

The 4mt looks promising, I have the Hornby Dublo and Bachmann versions of the 4MT....

QUOTE (6c8h @ 11 Sep 2014, 04:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Your Hornby Compound - is it the earlier tender-drive 'Deeley' type with no coal rails - on a longer tender wheelbase - or the later SWB coal rail tender as used on the Patriot and later Hornby version of the compound ? - as I may have a spare complete tender top....

Hi.

Sorry about the delay in posting.

The tender is the one without coal rails.

Hi.

PM Finally returned.

Running late due to a Signal Failure at Wrexham General!

Tender vent now fitted...

I'm still working on some GBL locos, and some Tri-ang stock...

Not enough hours in the day/ days in the week!

Something that I have been planning for some time now....but I just had to do it today....

Using Tri-ang and Hornby rolling stock to represent the train.

My list of the train is:

Loco BOB "Winston Churchill" with 3 discs in a "V" shape. 2 on the smokebox door brackets, 1 on the lower centre bracket.

Brake Car No.208

SR PMV S2464S in special "Pullman style" livery. (The centre pair of doors were actually fitted with windows.)

First Class Car "CARINA"

First Class Car "LYDIA"

First Class Car "PERSEUS"

Brake Car "ISLE OF THANET"

The Locomotive is the Tri-ang Railways 1964-1965 Synchrosmoke version.



Brake Car No.208 (Tri-ang Railways 1964 Brake 2nd Car No.79)



The SR PMV as modelled by Hornby. This is the earlier solo release. R.4451



First Class Car "CARINA". (Tri-ang Railways 1965 Car "JANE")



First Class Car "LYDIA". (Tri-ang Railways 1959-1961 Car "RUTH")



First Class Car "PERSEUS". (Tri-ang Railways 1959-1961 Car "ANNE")



Brake Car "ISLE OF THANET" (Tri-ang Railways 1964 Brake 2nd Car No.79)

I found it interesting that the "recent" Hornby "Railroad" GWR Class 2721 0-6-0 PT is much better detailed than the original Hornby Railways issue....

The 2 models. The original issue has been re-painted, etc....



The Railroad model. Note seperate handrails everywhere! Also, the safety valve is a far better moulding!





The original Hornby Railways model....with moulded handrails on the bunker, and the small handrails on the tanks...also a solid flat topped safety valve, the same as used on the 1970s Hornby Pannier taknt (8750)...

A lot of my time has been taken up lately....with converting display models....

Great British Locomotives Collection

Issue 30. Released Wednesday April 1st. (Next issue, 31, due Wednesday 15th April. Southern Railway Maunsell N Class 2-6-0 Tender Loco in BR Black livery.)

GWR Pannier Tank and Shunter's Truck.

The body is a close copy in parts of the Tri-ang version, but the running plate is separate from the body (as with the GBL B12, which differs in many ways from the Tri-ang original, making motorisation a bit harder than the Caley Single 123!).

The top part of the tanks is separate, like the Tri-ang version, but the cab front is moulded as part of the tank top, while the Tri-ang one has the cab front as part of the cab.

The bottom of the boiler part is solid, as is the footplate, another separate part, so some cutting out will be required to fit a motorised chassis....
The whole front of the tanks,smokebox, and chimney is green instead of black.

There is a separate "brassy" coloured chimney cap, and the Safety Valve cover is a very good copy of the Tri-ang original&#8230;solid top, with a moulding seam!

The Coupling Rods are also very good copies of the Tri-ang type, and are both on upside down (and on the wrong sides!) on mine (and reported on others)...so just need changing over and inverting for a display model..

There is a mis-match with the number on the loco and the plaque. Loco No. 6717. Plaque No. 6719.

An interesting choice of numbers as well....Steam Brake Only, so Goods and shunting work (No ATC as well...).

6717 information....http://www.railuk.info/steam/getsteam.php?row_id=3209%20" target="_blank"> http://www.railuk.info/steam/getsteam.php?row_id=3209 </a>

GWR "Shirtbutton" Monogram.

Yellow C Route and Power Disk.

I do believe that it should be a Blue disk, as these locos were not re-classed as Yellow until 1950, under BR, in recognition to the locos "hammer-blow" being less than most Blue locos. (LMS 8fs were Blue under the GWR system!)

The Shunter's Truck is based on the Hornby example....the Hand Brake is in the "ON" position!

Mine is now on a set of Bachmann wheels, after drilling out the axleboxes and removing the fixing lugs from under the chassis, where there is a representation of the Drawgear Spring!

Nem pockets from Dapol attached on plastic card bases.

Hand brake handles carefully "bent" upwards to look a bit more "OFF"&#8230;

Photos&#8230;
The Loco, with the coupling rods removed and replaced the right way up, and on the right sides! (Glued in each end, centre free of glue. The glued pins likely to snap, but a dab of UHU, other glues are available, fixed that!).





The loco in pieces....The back buffer beam is also a separate part....





The Tri-ang Hornby Body missing the tank top is on the Left....





GBL...



Tri-ang Hornby...



The Shunter's Truck...Hornby inspired....cut off tops to the wheels...No Brake Shoes or Hangers!



Spot the Drawbar Spring detail...



Bachmann (Left) and GBL (Right)





GBL parts...



GBL on Bachmann wheels (Left) and Bachmann (Right)...Hornby Dublo 2-rail track in steel!



More photos of the Shunter's Truck conversion to come....

This is the old "Airfix" kit, now supplied by Dapol complete with metal wheelsets, and tension lock couplings of the later Airfix GMR type with adaptors to fit them to the kit chassis.

The opening doors are a feature, and these kits are often found "unloading" at model coal merchants sidings!

Yes, that is one thing this model may well get used for, though this one is fitted with a weight under the chassis, and NEM pocket couplings. (I may use Kadees or small tension locks&#8230;undecided at the moment&#8230;on Ffrwd Locks.

This model has been "Converted" to Morton "Either Side" brakes. (By the simple expedient of leaving one set of brake shoes off, and adding a cross shaft. (Yes, I know that one lever should have a "cam", but that is a "small" detail! )

The Morton Braked Mineral wagons were "handed". The end door is to the left when looking at the brake shoe side...

It has no bottom doors. (C1951 Batch of BR Built Mineral Wagons&#8230NEM Couplings (Dapol). Metal Wheels (I will use some by Bachmann or the supplied Dapol...)

Part numbers, etc. were removed carefully with a sharp "chisel" type knife blade. Top and end door joints scribed in. Moulding marks filled.

Metal drawbar coupling hooks fitted
The chassis cross members in the centre were removed to make space for the weight. This is a little deep, but will do for me, as it was in stock.

Other weights like shot could be used by filling in the spaces between the cross members...

The wagon is still to be painted...

Photos&#8230;

Thanks Gavin.

Bachmann 16 ton Minerals (the newer ones) are the "proper" length. Apparently the Mainline/ Replica Railways/ early Bachmann wagons are too long, and on a 10ft Wheelbase chassis against the "proper" 9 ft wheelbase.

I traded in my too big ones and have some newer Bachmann ones for Ffrwd Locks now. But I have one without top flap doors that may have to go, or have top doors added, as it seems that these were later than the early 1950s!

The Dapol Mineral's openeing doors are why I got this one, for the posing opportunities!

On a similar vein, I have an Airfix Cattle Wagon Kit, and an Airfix Meat Van Kit in stock. These both have opening doors, and are very good detail especailly considering that the tooling dates from the 1960s!

The best thing is to keep an eye out for the original Airfix Kits, they can sometimes be got cheaper than the Dapol versions. The Dapol metal wheels and couplings/ adaptors are not included in the Airfix versions, but can be bough in separtely anyway, and you may want to use something else anyway.

The Polystyrene is "better" in the Airfix kits...Dapol use a "softer" mix apparently!

Hi Gavin.

I think it may be easier on space, and possibly sanity to do one at a time?

Or possibly 2...doing something on 1 while the glue/ paint. etc. is setting on the other?

The cattle wagon's opening doors make a nice senario with a cattle dock and a few cows...check they are the right breed and colour (livery?) for your time zone though!

You can also convert the Cattle Wagon into an ALE CASK wagon (Dapol have done this with the Hornby Dublo/ Wrenn Cattle Wagon they are still using)....and it is possible to convert one into the GWR type from which the BR type decended, with a bit of LMS input it seems...

GBL GWR Shunter's Truck. Re-wheeled and couplings fitted. Part 2.

The model has had the locating pillars removed, the axle boxes drilled and cut out with a small drill bit in a Pin-Vice, and using Beraing Reamers. (DCC Concepts...othe rmakes are available...)

The NEM Pockets and couplings are from a bag made by Dapol. (No instructions provided...anyone got a set of instructions for using the Dapol Nem Pockets?)

They are mounted on plastic card bases, also using a bit of sprue for a locoating pillar and some plastic strip as locating/ spacer parts.

The Hand Brake handles (Supplied in th eON Position) have been bent up a bit to look a bit more like they are OFF...a fault carried over from the Hornby models...

The Toolbox has stuffed with lead bits for weight...held in by UHU glue. The Hornby model has a cast metal tool box!

Some numbers and other lettering to do...and a new location...possibly Wrexham...

Photos...









Toolbox stuffed with lead bits for weight...The Hornby model has a cast metal tool box!

GBL B12 4-6-0. Taken apart and modified to fit a Tri-ang Hornby Synchrosmoke Chassis. Part 1.

Complete GBL Loco and Tender..







Tri-ang Hornby BR B12 Loco and Tender 1964- (The driver should be on the other side I think...B12 Right Hand Drive?)









TH Chassis with body removed...



TH Tender...



GBL Parts 1









TH body TOP. GBL under...



GBL body TOP. TH Chassis and Body under...



GBL Boiler Parts...











TH Tender Body on GBL Chassis LEFT...GBL Body on TH Chassis RIGHT...





GBL Tender LEFT. TH Tender RIGHT...

GBL B12 4-6-0. Taken apart and modified to fit a Tri-ang Hornby Synchrosmoke Chassis. Part 2.

GBL Parts modified to fit Tri-ang Hornby B12 Chassis... It is probably NOT a good idea to use a smoke unit with the GBL plastic being a softer blend than that which Tri-ang Hornby used. The GBL body may just melt!



GBL Footplate cut out to clear TH B12 Chassis...





GBL modified Body on TH Chassis. Not glued together yet...painting to be done. (NE Wartime Black probably! Like a Hornby release of the B12!)





The tender is still in the works....

QUOTE (lmsboy @ 11 Apr 2015, 10:43) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Yes, I do - I emailed Dapol for instructions once having had the same issue. Reply was as follows:

"OK For each end of the chassis you should have 3 plastic pieces, the hook and a screw.

1/ Take the piece which doesn't have the L shaped projections and turn it so the block on the one end is uppermost.

2/ The tension lock coupling has a projection on the one end of the d bar. Turn the coupling so that this projection alos points up.

3/ Push the coupling into the block.

4/ Take the piece with the L shaped projections and put it over the coupling shaft on the bottom of the chassis such tha the L sticks up.

5/ Put the assmebly from 3 onto the shaft making sure it passes between the legs of 4/.

6/ Screw down ensuring you do not over tighten."

the L shaped bit is the centering spring. HTH?

Thanks...you got more from Dapol than I did.

So, the instructons are for fitting to a Dapol chassis....

I am fitting to non-Dapol models, and so have to coble it together.

I had managed to work out the positions for the various parts, but as I have no in-built "shaft" I have to make something up. Funnily enough the two wagons I have "done" so far use a bit of Dapol Sprue from the Mineral Wagon kit as the "Coupling Shaft".

It is good to see that I got it right after all!

Thanks for that list.

Useful stuff.

Well, in my universe, Croes Newydd shed will gain a Shunters "chariot"...as will the Yard....eventually!

I am busy sorting out some suplus bits to re-finance other projects at the moment......

Iron Ore Trains to Brymbo!

In my universe, those trains go to Ffrwd Steelworks! (Ffrwd works being developed instead of Brymbo....)

Sounds interesting stuff....

I have read that at least one of these workings was known as "The Hook Norton"....