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Scale Scenes

7266 Views 23 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  dwb
Has anybody or is anybody used or using the Scale Scenes range of print and stick on card models?

What are your general feelings about them and do u think that they are easy to use?

Pete
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I have. There are two entries in my blog - "Taking cover" and "Another brick in the wall". I think this link will take you straight there.

I will certainly be buying the "platform" kit when I get to that stage. I prefer the look of the brick work to Metcalfe. The waiting shelter in "Taking cover" is sitting on a Metcalfe platform.

When I get to the MPD stage, I will try one or maybe both of the engine sheds.

Your costs don't end with buying the prints. You have to supply some decent card, glue and so on. Once you've done that once, the risk of purchasing a print set you don't like is limit to a few pounds.

David
i built the free download shelter last night for a trial to see what the kits are like ....lets just say that i will be buying more kits from this company........dont know whether its gonna work out cheaper or not but they do make up into really sturdy kits if u use the recommended weights of card....only niggly thing is gluing on each individual row of slates to the roof but even this is worth it for the finished effect
I scratchbuild my models and until now have produced my own brick papers as the commercially available varieties are too uniform for my tastes. I have recently tried the Scalescene red brick and weathered red brick paper downloads and find them excellent. I am a little less enthusiastic about the tiled roof paper, too regularly weathered so that I can't apply my own weathering around roof furniture. I e-mailed the proprietor, who explained that most of his customers preferred not to have to do their own weathering, and offered me a credit for that down-load, so nothing lost, and good customer care result. I've done the free shelter, suggest using genuine 'Prit-stick' to fix your sheets, and not to use too thick a paper, ordinary 90gm A4 is fine. (Tip, apply the P'stick generously to the paper, then wipe off excess with you finger and apply when still just tacky, rubbing/scraping well on to the card with a flat piece of wood and your finger, see below.)
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i used spraymount adhesive to secure the printouts to the various cards and it seems to be ok....never tried the pritt method as i have always found it to be too lumpy once applied
>i used spraymount adhesive
Me too. I have recently bought the "movable" version for those occasions when the first "hit" is likely to need a little adjusting.

David
I purchased the North Light Engine shed & had a ball with it, it comes as a 4 piece jig-saw roof unit but by printing pages as required, I made mine longer. I also e-mailed the owner on some posible improvemnts to the package as such . It took a while to do, not one of those two night jobs but looks good.
I even obtained the platform kit to try so & also got some software from USA which as 20 different stone/bricks in any scale which is also superb http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/index.html so betwwn Metcalfe, Scalescenes & the USA company, I am as happy as pig in clover.


Ron
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dooferdog

I do like your models I have been following some of the threads you have been envolved with maybw you could do a pice in OMWB from atart to finish on how you lay the things out and so on?

Pete
>the North Light Engine shed & had a ball with it, it comes as a 4 piece jig-saw roof unit but by printing pages as required, I made mine longer.

I'd love to see a photo of that. How do the windows work out? I've been wondering how the glazing side of the kits is managed.

David
4
Just found this thread!!

I've built the platform, gable roof engine shed and the new terrace houses.

I think they are really good.
Just started to design and build my own Signal box using the Scalescenes method of wrapping the brick sheets over card.
Built the Metcalf one but I dont think it looks that good compared to the one I'm making using the texture sheets.
If you want any more pics of the ones I've done so far just ask.



OO and N (N was for my dad)







These houses can also be built low relief fronts or backs.
I did work out the costs and if you take into account the glues price of the card and inks for printing it out there isn't much difference, for one off items.
It does work out really good value when you build lots of an item. I've just started on another block of terrace houses which is 3 of the above in one lump.

I sent John an Email and he did say thats why he was trying to concentrate launching modular designs as this is where you would save money.

Ian
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QUOTE (dwb @ 17 Jan 2007, 19:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>>the North Light Engine shed & had a ball with it, it comes as a 4 piece jig-saw roof unit but by printing pages as required, I made mine longer.

I'd love to see a photo of that. How do the windows work out? I've been wondering how the glazing side of the kits is managed.

David

Windows are very good, you just print them onto Transparency film.

I built the N gauge Northern light engine shed for my dad as a birthday present, came out really good.

They do take time though, and I always have a pack of baby wipes to hand when building as your fingers get covered in glue!!!
It save having to get up every few mins to wash your hands.

Ian
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I also took these.

These are card board sheets which are 900mm x 640mm in size, as you can see I've printed off and glued all the sheets required to make the terrace house.

Yes that is a sofa that the two sheets have filled.
Add to that the printed sheets that will be glued to other parts.....It's not a ten minute job but it's very rewarding when you finish the kit.

Once you've done one you can apply the system to anything you want to make.



Just to show the part built house insides, showing the floor, you do get a big choice of front/back doors and curtains.
You even get some photos and rug/carpet print outs to glue to the floors!



Ian
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Thanks for posting those pictures Ian. I have found them very helpful.

David
simply stunning. What thickness of board have you used ?
QUOTE (Makemineadouble @ 15 Feb 2007, 20:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>simply stunning. What thickness of board have you used ?

Thanks guys.

I have used the recommended thicknesses, 200gsm white card, 1mm and 2mm thick grey fibre board.

The best place to buy everything from is 4D model shop.

http://www.yellowcatshop.co.uk/shop/defaul...ubcatid=3500114

They sell everything, and it was the only place to get the 1mm thick board from.

Hobby craft sell 2mm grey fibre mounting board which is much cheaper the 4D.
It just makes it easier to buy everything from one place.
Yes the sheets are very big and are delivered by courier wrapped in thick cardboard to protect them.

There is a little room for varying thicknesses but I actually used 1.5mm thick card and as you have to put 3 to 4 thicknesses together it ended up 2mm too wide!!!!

I will try and get some shots of my engine shed, I really need to build that again as it was the first one I did and I never got round to spraying the artists varnish over it to protect it.
I left it in the window and the sun has bleached the colours out of it a bit!!
Not to worry I will just print it off and build another.

Ian
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Ok last few,

I know gone over the top, but I'm really impressed with the quality of the kits, this is in grey stone wall.



Ignore the Bachmann starter engines, they got me started anyway!!





These rafter details you can add or leave out, there is a template in the build guide so I just cut out the cardboard and painted it black.

Ian
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This is of my own design.

John Wiffen who is the guy behind scalescenes has not yet done a signal box, so I thought I would have a go.
Using the same priciples as the scalescene kits I have come up with this.
I have sent John at scalescenes an email asking if he could produce a wooden type texture sheet so that external walls can be clad, with a timber look.
He is doing one already! He says he is also going to be doing his own signal box later in the year.











You can just see the signal levers through the windows. thought it added a nice touch
yes the roof hasn't been glued on yet.

Ian
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Wiggy:

I'd suggest you need a concrete lintel across the tip of the windows - otherwise the brickwork would collapse into the window opening . It would probably be fairly flush with the brickwork , so some very thin strips of paper glued in the appropriate places should do the job as a retrofit.

The box looks nice - very reminiscent of the LMS ARP design
Wiggy(Ian) your signal box is great & I like the levers. It does allow for updates above the windows as suggested & I have another one of Scalescenes to build myself

Sol
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