Scenery Materials

QUOTE (stmartins @ 8 Jan 2009, 21:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am in the process of building a long mountain to disguise my two level layout changing levels. The wire mesh and plaster of Paris are in in place and its now down to colouring and scenery. Does anyone know of a problem is using very fine top soil to cover the area before adding some "artificial " colours.
My thoughts were to add some fine top soil and then spay a mix of PVC /Water & fairy liquid to try to give the mountain some realism.
Is there any reasons why this cannot be done i.e does the soil decompose or smell after a period. I have looked a various book on adding scenery and have never seen anything that refers to this.
Any good advice would be appreciated

The soil could contain organisms which could later cause trouble not to mention the fact that you might have real weeds on your layout. I would paint the plaster surface a brown colour using household emulsion. That would form a good base for further detail work.

*** No reason not to use it - I've done it and it works.

However don't just lift from the garden and use.

It needs to be perfectly dried and seived afterwards to get rid of nasties. A wee while in the microwave + an hour in the oven also kills most organisms (and you too probably if you don't wait till the wife is out ).

apply it both before and after artificial stuff - very very sparingly/finely in the last bit to just "tone" and soften the overall look.

Don't mist it too much (if at all) after applying unless you want mud - you will lose the natural soft texture. Best to apply to a damp surface (perhaps weak glue/water mix) and just leave it. Also as Brian said use a neutral gray/brown base painted on under it...not too reddish, as most earth is quite pale/neutral in colour when dry. water based acrylic thinned with meths and water will flow on well and soak in a bit too, killing any smoothness which is waht you want. you could actually dust it straight onto the wet paint - that also works well.

if you are really brave at using the appliances grind it to the finest possible powder and also use as an overall layout weathering powder - after all blown dust is a major source of grime on everything around it and if you use a "basic layout tint" for this as a final weathering "toning layer" over all on the layout, its always very natural.

Richard

Richard QUOTE and BTW I also really like the way the track flows The secret is to use Peco curved turnouts and 7mm track curves from Javelin (I think) which ensures no doglegs and sweeping curves.

The only straight piece of track on the layout is the platform face.

My old layout was nothing but curves:

http://www.altezeitgruppe.com/Sedan5.jpg

http://www.altezeitgruppe.com/Sedan4.jpg

Groovy