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Scratch built Turntable

5616 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  ahammond
Has anyone built a Turntable from scratch?

'N' Gauge/Peco Code 55 Finescale.

I have a Motor/Gearbox that will achieve 3RPM and because my Shunting layout (Still in construction) has limited space and most Turntables are fairly large diameter, I would like to build my own. I will only be using the one track in & out, just to reverse the loco which will only be 060 or similar.

The layout is DCC, but I envisage not using DCC to drive it, just pushbuttons on the control panel. I realise that I will have to have it isolated from the main track during rotation to prevent shorting, and that isn't a problem, but suggestions to reverse the polarity of the tracks on the turntable to match the main track would be welcome. Would I also need to have some sort of Registration to line the tracks up, or will 3 RPM be slow enough to line it up by sight?

Spottydog
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Hi Spotty, Im planing to start one very soon in 'o'microswitches will be a good idea for lining up the tracks,you didnt say if it is sound equipped,there is also the issue of lights,ie changing direction etc...As for shorting during rotation you will have a gap in the rails anyway,they would'nt touch otherwise it wont turn.
QUOTE (frame69 @ 6 Feb 2009, 12:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Spotty, Im planing to start one very soon in 'o'microswitches will be a good idea for lining up the tracks,you didnt say if it is sound equipped,there is also the issue of lights,ie changing direction etc...As for shorting during rotation you will have a gap in the rails anyway,they would'nt touch otherwise it wont turn.

Hi frame69

No sound & Lights are not an issue, fairly basic.

When you say microswithches are good for lining up what exactly do you mean, that the switches switch the supply to the motor off &/or they physically register the table in the correct position. I realised that there would be a gap, I was thinking more of a short from arcing as the rails passed each other, I have also inserted a short piece of rail directly before the table which has Insulated joiners which will be supplied from the control panel by a Push button.

Spottydog
If lights or sound isnt an issue then once the loco is on the turntable you can either swap the power on the table or the track. then turn the loco around using the microswitches to cut motor power when the tracks are lined up. If you were using sound and lights the main track power would have to be swapped so not to interfere with the running of the loco,thats my plan,sort of ! Also the power used on model rails should'nt jump the gap between table and lines. This is the plan for my o gauge shunting scene.
yours hopefully,Frame.
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Its the polarity of the table when it rotates 180' that is my main concern, what is the best way to change it?

Spottydog
If I was building this a manual switch or maybe contacts set up at the stops,one on each rail.A reverse loop module will also achieve this...
http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/elect...table.htm..have a look at this,if no good there are several links that describe it better than I can,good luck.Andy
A while back I motorised a Peco N gauge turntable using DCC to control the table motor. The motor had a cheap decoder wired up as per normal but without the hassle of the lack of space. The table was allocated a number as per a normal loco and could be turned at remarkably slow speeds just using the DCC throttle.

There was no problem with polarity switching the way the table was built and wired up straight out of the box as per the given instructions. The whole thing worked well to a certain extent. Where it fell down was the poor quality of the Peco kit. I could never get the thing to turn smoothly even without the motor. The motor only made matters worse as there was just too much play in the mechanicals. So I eventually gave it up as a failed experiment but with plenty of useful information gained.

I have recently obtained a non motorised Flieschmann turntable and Anglicised it. It is a far superior product albeit not quite as accurate in outline for British use as the Peco offering. I am hoping that I will get around to motorising it with DCC some time this year after the my layout is moved into the garage.
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