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Hi,

I was just experimenting with an N gauge Peco electrofrog points and Seep PM1 point motor.

Has anyone else successfully used this combination to use the auxiliary switch on the seep motor to change frog polarity?

With a throw of just under 3 mm, how reliable is the sliding contact underneath the seep? Seems like very careful lining up is in order, to say the least...

Thanks,

Walter
 

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Walter,
I havnt used the Seep PM1 point motor, (i presume from gaugemaster) but use the PM2 on code 55 electrofrog peco points after all the points contain a spring already to give a positive change over in polarity, they have a limited travel and trial is needed i wire up to single pole double throw sprung switches while holding the point motor in place adjusting the throw of the motor until i am happy with it, then fix in positon and try with a loco for contact either side of the point.
I have found them to work fine.

upnick.

QUOTE (Walter @ 23 Jan 2008, 19:22) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,

I was just experimenting with an N gauge Peco electrofrog points and Seep PM1 point motor.

Has anyone else successfully used this combination to use the auxiliary switch on the seep motor to change frog polarity?

With a throw of just under 3 mm, how reliable is the sliding contact underneath the seep? Seems like very careful lining up is in order, to say the least...

Thanks,

Walter
 

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Hi Walter

This maybe of use to you and perhaps others.

I can't remember exactly where I found it, only that I came across it a few months ago whilst researching different point motors with a built-in aux switch.

One of the common problems found when fitting SEEP point motors to PECO pointwork is trying to get the point motor to fire correctly to both sides with the auxiliary switch working cleanly either side of centre. This is caused by the throw of the PECO point being somewhat less than that of the point motor.

After various ideas have been tried the following appears to be the simplest and best solution:

Before fitting open the mounting holes into slots with a small round file.

Use a pair of small clips or spacers to hold the point blades in their 'mid' position

Fix the point motor underneath the baseboard making sure that the axis of the point motor is correctly aligned with the point tie-bar

Use round-headed screws to make sure that the point potor is firmly held in place while allowing it to be moved along its axis.

Before tightening the point motor ensure that the operating bar is in the centre position between the solenoids.

This method should ensure that the motor operates correctly and that the switch always operates cleanly to the side that is required.

Hope this helps

Regards

Mark.
 

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QUOTE (Walter @ 23 Jan 2008, 19:22) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,

I was just experimenting with an N gauge Peco electrofrog points and Seep PM1 point motor.

Has anyone else successfully used this combination to use the auxiliary switch on the seep motor to change frog polarity?

With a throw of just under 3 mm, how reliable is the sliding contact underneath the seep? Seems like very careful lining up is in order, to say the least...

Thanks,

Walter

You have a PM Walter.
 

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the more i read about all these problems the more i wish i had just gone for kato track / motorised points and avoided all this!!!

tim
 

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Mark

Thanks for your post in relation to this. This post I will be adding to my favourites as you have given a very simplistic guide as to how I should fit these.

Thanks again

David
 

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Hi David

Glad you found the info useful.


Regards

Mark.
 

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QUOTE (Sprintex @ 26 Nov 2010, 12:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Mea venturing onto the 'Dark Side' though


Paul

Yea,just watch out for Darth Vader or the Evil Emperor
 
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