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hello brian.

I look forward to seeing the pics. dont forget to rub down the plastic sides before you paint them. the clear plastic is very smooth and the paint dosent stick to it very well.
I had the problem of the whole lot comming off when i took some masking tape off and i had to basically start again.

peter
 

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Hello Brian

Sorry i missed your post on the 5th. i have been having a couple of days off.

QUOTE (bro sewell)Thanks for the advise on that Peter, will rub down the sides, what grit paper did you use?

The paint is on order from phionex and they said I have to use there thinners as all the thinners I have will ruin it, have I just been had?

Have got the copydex ready for masking up the windows so its all proceding to plan, just need 3 more Bachmann Thompson bogies and a couple of nails to weight down the valiences to prevent swinging (thats for another web site!!!)

Brian

I use 1000, 1200 and 2000grit. depending on what its for and my mood! i tend to keep the 2000 grit for taking blemishes of finished paintwork.

With regards to the thinner. no you wernt had! one tin of thinner is not the same as another. they are spacifically engineered for a paticular paint. it can contain all sorts of things such as alcohol and solvents as well as the usual white spirits and other petrolum products. they are also engineered to evaporate at a speed which suits the application. for example when spraying paint i use a very fast drying thinner to get the coverage but when spraying varnish i want the varnish to remain wet when its on the surface of the model so i use a very slow drying thinner. Some people try and spray paint with white spirit which dries far too slowly with the resyult that they have to give the model about 10 cotes of paint (and 10 opportunities for dust to contaminate the finish.)

In short its a bit like wiskey. they all say wiskey on the bottle but they are far from being all the same.

We are very luckey with phoenix in that we have a manufacturer that sells us very small quantities of industrial grade paints. But the downside of this is that we have to treat them as industrial grade paints with regard to the preperation and processes that we have to go through. i have found that people who dont like phoenix paints tend to be people who treated it the same as they had been treating humbrol for donkey's years!

I have gotten carried away again havent I. i am starting to sound like a phoenix advert. -sorry.

Peter
 

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"Arethusa had a look at a Bob Moore lining pen but couldn't make it work. It may of taken me an hour or so per coach, but you can't tell its brush painted"

I wasnt complaining about the quality of work at all, i was just curious. the bob moore pen does take some getting used to. i think it is best kept for doing panelled coaches like LMS and early GWR rather than this type. to make it work i first flush it with a syringe full of cellulose thinners then thin the paint with varnish thinners (slower drying).

If you are ever in the london area i would be happy to give a demo.

Peter
 

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Yes i will be there both days too. I do have to cover some lunch breaks but apart from that anytime is good for me.

Its a good idea to do both days then you are not rushing around to fit evrything in. apart from the big launches its good to see all the little launches too. last year a real gem for me was the IKB broad gauge rover. this launch took up about a square foot but i think it was one of the nicest things at the show. if i had only 1 day i would never have noticed it.

Regards

Peter
 
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