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· Just another modeller
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QUOTE (Makemineadouble @ 20 Nov 2007, 08:31) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Perhaps you'd like to explain further
As I've never heard of this
IMHO it simply cannot work, but as always I stand to be corrected.

What is practical is to fit a suitable resistor to reduce voltage should the heat/smoke/smoke cycle be short. Seuthe are a bit coy with their literature on the subject. In practice it's a fine line between getting them to smoke, and achieving reason time between fills. The best thing about DCC is you can turn them off and on for maximum effect, this lengthens the cycle, reduces any heat, and is realistic. In six or seven years of fitting these units the only problems I've experienced is one total failure, and one chipped chimney caused by heat.



***Accessory functions can indeed be powered by either the appropriate function wire and a connection to red or black. This is very common on EU made loco's, especially N scale where bulbs are almost always using chassis ground for one side.

basically inside every decoder, as the power enters the decoder all except one via PCB track (the dcc signal) passes through a bridge rectifier, and using a chassis earth does therefore indeed give a half wave rectification.

My area of doubt is not that it will work (it will), but that there will be adequate power for enough smoke - as it is smoke never looks very realistic to me when normal, never mind reduced!! - always too oily and heavy and never nough "energy" in it expulsion from the loco.

BTW - I have a friend that uses Johnsons Baby oil in his units to good effect - however I also note that Stage smoke uses Glycol - I wonder if this might be worth trying?

Regards

Richard
DCCconcepts
 

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Sorry to drag this one back from the dim and distant past, but i was wondering how some of you got on? did you try the suggestions?

How do the manufacturers do synchro smoke? i know a couple of the old hornby chassis had a piston near the smoke generator. has anyone tried reproducing this? I have seen a couple of diesels with tiny fans but the resultys have been mixed.

Peter
 

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QUOTE (Makemineadouble @ 16 Nov 2007, 20:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>no9 sweat do you want a 23 to try, I have a spare, I'd rather post it than bin it
BTW I use epoxy to hold the no 22's in place you don't need a lot and if you need to replace one - and they can fail, a sharp crack of the pliers is sufficient to remove them.

Richard I have fitted a 23 in a new Jinty and it may not give the smoke the 22 gives and im all for that,but I did find that the 23 did seem to give a more sort of puff puff puff looks good just standing oh shed.
Dave
 

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Why not fit a large capacity smoke generator at the back of your engine shed for effect, their easy to wire up to an on off switch, that would give you some realistic smoke effects. The Micro Mart one has a small fan so the smoke would be pushed out the front of the shed "nice"

Transhed canopies and tunnels mouths are ideal applications without the need to fit them into loco's with all the complications - like spluttering smoke oil on bodies, and melting chimneys !

QUOTE How do the manufacturers do synchro smoke? i know a couple of the old hornby chassis had a piston near the smoke generator. has anyone tried reproducing this? I have seen a couple of diesels with tiny fans but the resultys have been mixed.

Yes I've seen the American adverts for this - but I havnt seen one in operation yet I suppose they also use smoke oil. Perhaps they melt the loco body for the unlimate effect !
, probably have to replace that on a regular basis ! nice profit earner for the manufacturer. Despite having fitted 100's of smoke units, for my own application I would definately perfer static smoke stregically placed around the layout. Less filling - less mess - better effects and no longer term damage potential to loco bodies.

smoke generator



QUOTE Smoke Generator Adds Action to Locomotives, Dioramas and Structures
Smoking chimneys make model factories appear hard at work, add warmth to a dollhouse fireplace setting or diorama campfire, and create that extra touch of realism for model locomotives. Our fan-driven smoke generator operates on 6-24v DC (draws 1/2 amp) and creates more smoke than traditional heater-coil type units. It has a large reservoir -- holds up to 75 drops of smoke fluid -- to increase the time between fill-ups, and employs special circuitry that shuts off the generator when fluid runs low to prevent burnout. Overall size: 1-1/4 x 2 x 1-1/4 inches high. Includes 1/2 inch dia. x 2-1/2 inch high detachable smoke stack and pluggable wire leads. Smoke fluid available separately.

Not too expencive either at $58.00 Bucks

 

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I have probably fitted more smoke units than most people using this forum. One of my clients had 83 of his A4's fitted with one or two smoke units and I also fitted smoke units in many other classes of locomotives he owned. The vast majority of his locos were Bachmann with the split chassis which required the removal of all metal below the chimney in order to allow the units to fit.
By drlling a hole in the front of the exposed metal end to allow a piece of handrail wire to be a tight fit. it is relatively easy to solder the smoke unit wires to these projections as it is impossible to solder directly to the chassis.
Rememberthat some smoke units are designed for British engines and do not have the lip of the Seuthe and that there are good quality British smoke oils.
Harvey Godber
 

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I am new to DCC and I've never fitted a smoke generator. Next week I am picking up my long awaited Duchess of Hamilton, NRM Edition, streamlined and I'm having it fitted with a sound decoder and code lamps (passenger express) with a fire box flicker. They tell me that they can't do a smoke generator though. I'd be interested to hear comments from people that are more familiar with these things than I am. Colin.
 

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As a new member here, I thought I'd bring this thread back from the past because it's what got me to this site via a google search.

I'm interested in getting a smoke generator but for reasons of space it needs to be horizontal rather than vertical. As the vehicle bumps around the track I'd rather the smoke oil didn't dribble out everywhere so just laying a Seuthe 22 out flat won't work.

Is there an existing system I can use, either with a remote reservoir or a long cylinder I can lay flat with a very short smoke stack?

Thanks in advance!
 
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