Smokey Joe and Peco O-16.5mm points

2765 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Moonraker, Dec 29, 2016

Moonraker

Discussion Starter · Dec 21, 2016 (Edited by Moderator)

I am building an O-16.5mm layout using Peco O-16.5 track and points. Four locos run on the layout; a Bachmann Porter, an Ixion Coffee Pot, a Haskell NA and a scratch built railcar.

The railcar is using a Hornby Smokey Joe mechanism. The problem is that it frequently shorts out when crossing a point. The other three locos are all fine. I have measured the wheels as follows:

.....................Wheel Width.............Back to back..........Sideways play

Smokey Joe.........3.2mm..................14.16mm...................2mm

Porter.................3.1mm..................14.42mm.................0.5mm

NA.....................2.7mm....................14.5mm....................1mm

Coffee Pot...........2.8mm....................14.3mm.................0.5mm
..
Any ideas as to the best way of fixing the problem?

Regards
Peter Lucas

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Richard Johnson

· #2 · Dec 21, 2016

***Your numbers already contain the answer.

Fix the back to backs and reduce side play. The points are insulfrog and the wheels are crossing the tip gap most probably.

If necessary shim the check rails to stop the wheels wandering so far over the frog tip.

regards

RIchard

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Moonraker

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 22, 2016

Richard,

Thanks. Yes, I could see the anomaly in the measurements. However, the wheels seem to be firmly fixed on the axles and I was wondering if anyone had found a way of making the adjustments without causing irreparable damage to the loco.

Regards
Peter

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fliermike

· #4 · Dec 23, 2016

My 2 cents worth:

1. Dis-assemble the loco chassis to remove the wheel sets, exercise caution that you don't damage the pick ups.
Note which side the insulated wheels are on the loco (see 3).

2. Buy a back to back gauge from DCC Concepts or one of their dealers.

3. Set the back to back using the gauge, one wheel will probably have a plastic insulating center that makes that wheel easy to adjust. The other side (if all metal) will need a tap with a small punch to move the axle in the wheel.

4. Re-assemble.

I have had success with locos with plastic wheels by levering between wheel and chassis with a wide bladed screwdriver, but be careful you don't destroy the pick ups. This saves dis-assembly.

I'm sure others can offer their ideas on this subject.

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Moonraker

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 23, 2016

Thanks. I will try that. I think I will also try gluing some thin plastic strips between the wheel backs and the motor case to reduce sideplay.

Regards
Peter Lucas

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fliermike

· #6 · Dec 23, 2016

I have two locomotives that required wheel spacers to get the correct back to back/sideplay, I used small nylon washers available in various thicknesses.
I got them from an aviation hardware supplier here in the USA, I'm sure someone can suggest a UK source.

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Mr N. Ladd

· #7 · Dec 24, 2016 (Edited by Moderator)

The Smokey Joe chassis is easy to adjust the width of the wheels. Use a small screwdriver and gently open them up, or just squeeze together to close them if too wide.
I know it is not that technical here, but it works! The only difficulty is ensuring the contacts touch the wheels. The modern chassis are more difficult to reassemble compared to the simpler older ones when it comes to the wheel contacts. Other then that, it is a matter of knowing the correct measurements back to back (Why a gauge tool has been suggested, though I match them up to wheels I know are roughly correct...Though my track and pointwork is designed to cope with slight variations in gauge) and ensuring wheel quartering is correct (I use my eyes to do this).
I know my reply may out be good for a professional approach, but so far I've got by with the methods above and all seems to run ok.

I will say that one of these days I could do with a back to back gauge though.
(I also model in 0-16.5 but tend to make my own track and points by using spare 00 gauge Peco code 100 rails to save on cost).

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Moonraker

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 25, 2016

Thanks for the suggestions. I will give them a try next week. At the moment we have five grandkids with us aged from 9 down to 0.3 so modelling time doesn't exist right now.

All the best for the new year.
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound

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Mr N. Ladd

· #9 · Dec 28, 2016

I hope you have great success.

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Moonraker

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 29, 2016

All now fine and I didn't have to take the motor unit apart. I increased the back to back to 14.4mm using pliers and superglued 0.7mm styrene strips between the wheels and the motor block to reduce the sideplay. Now goes through the points okay.

Incidentally, to correct Richard's earlier post, my Peco 0-16.5 points are Electrofrog not Insulfrog.

Thanks for the answers.

Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound

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