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spratt & Winkle couplings

2410 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Campaman
15
This my method of making the Spratt and winkle coupling and its just a little different to the standard build.

1 I make up a batch of paddles bend and fit he chains, I also add weight to the back of the paddle with a run of soldier both sides.



I use a paste flux for this job and an easy flowing lead soldier, fortunlately I have a large supply that I brought with me from South Africa years ago. If you can't get a good lead based soldier I find DCC Concepts Sapphire 145 almost as good but more expencive. My Weller soldering station is a 20 year old veteran, I have other stations but this is the one I prefer, with a chisle tip it's perfect for loading soldier.





2. The base plates are drilled out while still in the fret, I used a drill slighty larger than the wire I use for the pins this is important you need a sloppy loose fit to enable the soldier to flow around the pin and hold it firmly in position.



I then remove the base plates from the fret, clean up any burrs on the side with snips for a file and then polish both sides with and emery board used for ladies nails this is quicker and more effect then using a file.

3. I make up the hooks from 0.05 wire ( scourced from Eileens Emporium), currently I use a simple former on a block of wood to form them (I will add a Bill Bedford wire former once it arrives) I use square sided pliers for this job I check for
by eye. I then apply flux to the sides of the base plate, and position the hook, hold in position with a heavy object and apply a liberal amount of colder to the out side of the hook only.





4 To make the pins I use the cheaper coiled wire from MSE I apply flux to the holes in the base plate with a tooth pick and to the side of the pin which is then inserted in to hole and secured with a good run of solder, Once set turn over and polish the base of the plate with your emery board you will have a smooth plate thats easy to secure to your wagon when you fit them.





finally the the assembled coupler is super glued to the base of the wagon. I use 511 super glue gel (cheap and available from Ebay) and plasticard spacers to support the coupling I check the height of the hook with my gauge from the top of the rails this is full proof and the wagon couple every time with no effort.



Mike if you want to contact me [email protected] should find me regards
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Hi Folks I became very disillusioned with my first attempts to use S & W couplings ( in 4mm scale but the same applies to any scale) I
thought them unnecessarily large, even using the TT version for 4mm or the 4 mm version for 7mm . In particular, although the remote
shunt facility was what drew my attention to them and the fact that they prevented buffer locking, the distance between buffers was so
excessively large it destroyed the other advantages. In the end I redesigned the whole thing to achieve what I considered to be a major
improvement in almost every aspect of appearance.

The first thing to tackle was to make all the parts in house from wire and scrap odds and ends which reduced the Hook unit to a much more
inconspicuous appearance and the "OVER RIDE remote shunt top bar" was removed so that the hook could be moved much closer to the BAR.
This meant I had to find another way to permit the remote shunt facility. This was achieved by making the wire hook bend upward and
backward then doubling it back down again below the first bend and finally bending it horizontally sideways for a few mm. Each wagon was
then fitted with a wire "L" which was fitted vertically down below the headstock and then at right angles horizontally away from the wagon.
2 Steel coupling links fitted to the wire hook at the correct position are magnetically attracted down to uncouple but by slightly drawing the
wagons apart the horizontal bar on the end of the hook drops below the "L" and when the wagons are pushed together the couplings cannot
engage until the wagons are separated.

I have been able to reduce the gap between wagons when being pulled to the minimum possible with regards the track radius without
buffers being forced together. The thin wire used is much less visible than the etching and costs are minimal. I am sure this will be
incomprehensible to you all so I will try to draw the scheme out if I can, unless some bright spark understands it and can do it for me !!!
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in my case I went to S&W to avoid buffer locking , the fequent problems I encountered with with 3 link coupling. I tried Dingham coupling first, as that was standard at our club. I found them flimzey and liable to damage. The three links I use are on passenger stock and Syphon milk traffic.
I find the S&W to be reilable easy to make and effective in operation.
QUOTE (Adrian Swain @ 8 Mar 2019, 23:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Folks I became very disillusioned with my first attempts to use S & W couplings ( in 4mm scale but the same applies to any scale) I
thought them unnecessarily large, even using the TT version for 4mm or the 4 mm version for 7mm . In particular, although the remote
shunt facility was what drew my attention to them and the fact that they prevented buffer locking, the distance between buffers was so
excessively large it destroyed the other advantages. In the end I redesigned the whole thing to achieve what I considered to be a major
improvement in almost every aspect of appearance.

The first thing to tackle was to make all the parts in house from wire and scrap odds and ends which reduced the Hook unit to a much more
inconspicuous appearance and the "OVER RIDE remote shunt top bar" was removed so that the hook could be moved much closer to the BAR.
This meant I had to find another way to permit the remote shunt facility. This was achieved by making the wire hook bend upward and
backward then doubling it back down again below the first bend and finally bending it horizontally sideways for a few mm. Each wagon was
then fitted with a wire "L" which was fitted vertically down below the headstock and then at right angles horizontally away from the wagon.
2 Steel coupling links fitted to the wire hook at the correct position are magnetically attracted down to uncouple but by slightly drawing the
wagons apart the horizontal bar on the end of the hook drops below the "L" and when the wagons are pushed together the couplings cannot
engage until the wagons are separated.

I have been able to reduce the gap between wagons when being pulled to the minimum possible with regards the track radius without
buffers being forced together. The thin wire used is much less visible than the etching and costs are minimal. I am sure this will be
incomprehensible to you all so I will try to draw the scheme out if I can, unless some bright spark understands it and can do it for me !!!

I for one would be very interested in seeing this drawn up or some photos
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