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static grass

9358 Views 11 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  billericaybill
G
is static grass a good idea, if so how do you use it, i have a fair idea but and advise please
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I have not used it, but after seeing it at the toyfair, it looks interesting. The 'gun' alligns the grass and then it is applies to a patch of glue. Good if you are doing fields of the stuff.





An alternative would be to use synthetic fur or sheets of grass.

What is far more impressive are the sheets of tufts that these companies are producing now. The tufts and patches of grass peel off backing paper and you apply them to an glued-up area with tweezers. Very quick and very realistic.

See more photos here from Nürnberg: Noch, Silhouette & Busch.
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I found this and have started to make one , It might be of interest to you

http://www.009.cd2.com/flyswat.htm
I only use static grass now. It gives greater depth than any other method. Used in conjunction with other types of foam and fibre, you can get some stunning results.

I use the Noch puffer bottle and a contact spray adhesive. Lots of people use PVA (or white glue) but for me it takes to long to dry! Using the puffer bottle for a start is a cheap way to find out whether you want to use satic grass.

Pictures of what I have done are here

http://germanrail.8.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=962

Regards

John
I only use static grass - i have a noch static machiney thing and puffer bottles - I tend to use about 4 - 5 layers of different colours all carefully overlayed plus some underlays to create the look of rough ground. I also use very watered down Evostick wood glue with resin in it. If you use a misting bottle to lay the grass layers it looks good sticks brilliantly and after about a day sets totally solid still preserving the look of the grass.!! If you have a look at my photographs of my layout Whitmore Vale you will see the effect that static grass can have....

http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...?showtopic=4076

If you need any help please feel free to email or instant message me !!!

Nikki
I think static grass is the way forward, here the puffer bottles are about £2.50, but I think the item in Doug's photos is around the £90.00 mark. Dont forget you have to buy the correct "grass" for it to work.

Regards
I have a Grass Master which is truly a wonderful bit of kit. By building up the different colours and lenghts of grass fibre a really superb effect is possible.
I have also bought a puffer bottle to use in the awkward to get to areas as the Grass Master is about 12" long on you have to apply it vertically .I have tried different brands of "Grass" but find Noch's to be the best. I initially used PVA woodglue but it dried to gloss finish so now use Noch's own recommended glue which dries invisable.
I know that pehaps some people would consider paying £90 for my Grass Master excessive but I consider that this is my only real hobby and want to achieve as good a job as my skills will allow.
When I finish my layout in the next 12 months I can recoup some of my outlay by selling the Grass Master on e-bay !
I use the Siliflor mats from International Models and am pretty happy with them.
I have looked at the Silflor mats and reckon that they look the bees knees to me. I think I will order some for a sample to see what they are like first before investing in the Grass Master which is also an excellent tool.
QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 6 Mar 2008, 12:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I have looked at the Silflor mats and reckon that they look the bees knees to me. I think I will order some for a sample to see what they are like first before investing in the Grass Master which is also an excellent tool.
I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
I have just bought a lot of tufts and jarvis grass sprinkle just a matter of seting itso it looks realistic as some shade into lighter and darker shades in real life .
I have seen Neil's grass done with a static applicator and I have seen mine done in the traditional chopped foam way; IMHO the static grass is way better for up front detail and "feel". I am not sure it would work any better for background and distance. The difficult thing would be to combine the two methods to get something like you might actally see on an embankment, a mixture of grass, shrubs and creepers.
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