[Walter]

Have been adding some headlamps to my Q1. Not entirely convinced by the result - for as small as LEDs go, it's still a compromise on the shape of the lamp, but I think I am reasonably happy with it. Does anyone else have any more pics of OO British steam with lights?

Have also added some more of my favourite Aidan Campbell pewter people to the station and goods shed.

Walter

 

[Richard Johnson]

Hi - you said: "Have been adding some headlamps to my Q1. Not entirely convinced by the result - for as small as LEDs go, it's still a compromise on the shape of the lamp, but I think I am reasonably happy with it. Does anyone else have any more pics of OO British steam with lights? Walter"

***Hi Walter - take a look at the pictures in the Gallery, Richard Johnsons railway - the last picture of the Scot/6170 has working lamps.

These are my own super tiny surface mount LEDs inside drilled out scale sized springside lamps - much more convincing I think than the LEDs from express etc...

here is another image or two

Richard Johnson
DCCconcepts

[/quote]

 

[John Webb]

You've both done well, but can I suggest the brightness of the LEDs needs reducing? Do remember that these were oil lamps and not very bright, particularly in daylight. I've been adding LED lamps to semaphore signals and found myself using resistors of several thousand ohms to keep the brightness more prototypical.

Regards,
John

 

[Walter]

QUOTE (John Webb @ 28 Sep 2007, 15:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You've both done well, but can I suggest the brightness of the LEDs needs reducing? Do remember that these were oil lamps and not very bright, particularly in daylight. I've been adding LED lamps to semaphore signals and found myself using resistors of several thousand ohms to keep the brightness more prototypical.

Regards,
John

I've since had a play with this - and recuced the output on the function (it's a dcc loco) to its minimum. I also coated the lamp with a thin black acrylic wash, to tone down the light more and to make sure you can't see into the lamp when switched off.

I was kind of aiming for this effect:

 

[Richard Johnson]

[quote name='John Webb' date='28 Sep 2007, 22:09' post='36488']
You've both done well, but can I suggest the brightness of the LEDs needs reducing? Do remember that these were oil lamps and not very bright, particularly in daylight. I've been adding LED lamps to semaphore signals and found myself using resistors of several thousand ohms to keep the brightness more prototypical.

*** John. I'm fully aware of what they should look like, and I'm very surprised you are using such low resistance uinless you are also using either yellow LEDs or a lower voltage - A prototypically warm white LED will need more than 10,000 ohms at 12 volts, higher at the slightly higher DCC voltages.

6170's lamps have 13,000 ohms in series with each, and are actually quite dim on the layout as they should be - they also have a soft warm glow not the white that the image shows - both whiteness and brightness are a function of the camera exposure, not the actual look.

Richard

PS: You need to re-look at the way you use the language / framed that comment - it could be read as remarkably condescending, and I very nearly took great offense at it...

 

[Richard Johnson]

You Said:

I was kind of aiming for this effect:

***

Walter

painting LEDs can be easier than using a brush. I find this way really easy and gives a super result compared to brushing. One can of the spray will do a lot of different hobby jobs, so its woth having it around anyway

LED plastics are smooth and don't take paint all that well... So, I find the eaiest way to treat an LED used as you did is to spray the whole thing with gray automotive undercoat, which will stick much better than brushed on enamlel or acrylic to the LEDs.

Spray the whole thing including the lens. Use a couple of coats if needed, but keep them thin if you can.

When dry then almost dry-brush the lamp colour (the undercoat is prefect for dry-brushing onto) ... I'm blessed with black for this / without the need for the white used on other railways - but if its white, not hard white - slightly off white and grubby (creamy very pale gray) as they weren't often thoroughly cleaned or repainted and generally looked a bit worn!

Then, when its all totally dry, with a couple of strokes of a fine file, remove the front of the lens and its paint. This will leave a perfectly round lens shape.

To restore the radius and give the look of a proper lens, take a little thick-ish gloss varnish OR clear epoxy and mix in a tiny amount of orange/amber and black. Place a tiny drop of this on the lens face - it will naturally settle to the limits of the filed face and harden with a slight rounded look. Epoxy is better than gloss varnish for this (for me anyway).

Regards

Richard
DCCconcepts

 

[Martin71]

Oh dear

We can say mine are a little too bright then 1000ohm resistors. Will install 10000-12000 later. But the kids including me love it.

Martin

 

[dwb]

That's an impressive volume of smoke. What smoke unit and "fuel" are you using?

David

 

[Martin71]

Hi David

I am using Sleuthe but there are 2 smoke generators there and it is DCC so an extra 2 v approx going in + each one has its own function.

Hope that helps.

Martin

 

[John Webb]

Richard,
Apologies for any misuse of the English language and any unintentional upset caused thereby. I feel that sometimes in haste to write comments and observations in the immediacy of the internet mistakes are more likely to be made than if I am sitting writing a letter on a computer and can take a break or save the draft and come back later to it.

I do much admire the work shown above - it's not something I would tackle, to be honest.

Regards,
John Webb

 

[dwb]

QUOTE I am using Sleuthe but there are 2 smoke generators there and it is DCC so an extra 2 v approx going in + each one has its own function.

_two_ generators, that explains a lot. I've just gone DCC myself and your work has got me wondering about being more adventurous. I've had a thought, how responsive are smoke generators to the volts being supplied? I wonder could they be programmed to "puff" a bit more than they do?

David

 

[Walter]

Hi Martin,

Nice job on the lights. Are they Express Models?

Another way to turn them down is to reduce the brightness of the function output that controls them. Mine is turned right down to 0.

Walter

 

[Takeshi]

[quote name='Walter' post='36485' date='28 Sep 2007, 10:34']Have been adding some headlamps to my Q1. Not entirely convinced by the result - for as small as LEDs go, it's still a compromise on the shape of the lamp, but I think I am reasonably happy with it. Does anyone else have any more pics of OO British steam with lights?

Have also added some more of my favourite Aidan Campbell pewter people to the station and goods shed.

Walter

Hello Walter,

Sometime ago I had a go at LED loco and tender lamp making and since you asked.

If you would like to take a trip to www.photobucket.com and search for 'loco LED lights' it will take you to my album showing my attempts at head and tender lamps using the type of LED on the card in one of the pictures.
You can enlarge the pictures for a close up but then you can see the defects.
Anyway the overall effect is satisfactory to myself but not necessarily to others!
I like the pewter people and I was interested in the platform lamps.Did you make them yourself.

Regards,
Bryan.

 

[Richard Johnson]

Cheers John - I was a bit snappy in my response too - put it down to a hard week moving the business 25km.

Back to modelling, I'd like to see your signals when they are done - good lighting makes a huge difference.

Kind regards

Richard

 

[Walter]

QUOTE (Nozomi @ 30 Sep 2007, 00:41) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Sometime ago I had a go at LED loco and tender lamp making and since you asked.

Hi Bryan,

Similar to my exploits. They look a reasonable compromise to me.

QUOTE (Nozomi @ 30 Sep 2007, 00:41) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I like the pewter people and I was interested in the platform lamps.Did you make them yourself.

Thank you. I love the pewter figures, but I have painted 28mm wargames figures in the past before, which probably helps a bit.

The lamps are Viessmann.

All the best,

Walter

 

[Martin71]

Hi Walter

The LED's are from Richard at DCC Consepts. I found his service far better as I got No service from Express lights at all. I do intend to tone down the "volume" of light, and as I said, the kids love it and you get believe it or not about 3 m look ahead with these lights in the dark. I used 1000 ohm resistors.

Regards

Martin