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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've built my baseboard and tomorrow the Sundeala boards arrive.Tips on how to cut it would be gratefully appreciated.

As background info the board are 9m thick 2.4x1.2m in size and my baseboards ware around a metre square. I want to keep each board separate as I expect to move house in a couple of years! The layout is OO gauge.

R
 

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Hi

Quote: I've built my baseboard and tomorrow the Sundeala boards arrive. Tips on how to cut it would be gratefully appreciated.

I would not use Sundeala boards for the baseboard, it is far too soft and if you lean on it to hard you can go through it. It also warps... To help prevent this the base has to be cross battened on a 12 inch (30cm) grid which means that very often the batten gets in the way of point motors that are planned to be fitted under the base board.

Because some types of board are extremely soft, the board can be cut with a sharp knife, (Stanley) using several cuts. The concept behind Sundelia board some 40 years ago is that it was ideal for using as a pin board, covered with cork or hessian. The railway modeller having limited equipment found that it was easy cut and to push track pins into, and had a sound deadening quality; hence the use for baseboards. Other materials are now available along with battery operated power tools.

What I would do is to cover the frame with ¼ inch (6mm) ply and cut the track bed out of Sundela, and glue in place using PVA. Then pin the track in place on top of this. Having fixed the track in place; the base can be cross battened in such a way that the battens miss the point motors!

Then fix the Sundelia board on top of the ply to form the landscape using the bread and butter method and shape to suit, cut the Sundelia board by hand with keyhole saw fitted with a hacksaw blade or it you are confident use a power operated jig saw. (experiment with blade types)

If you can get yourself a copy of the book 'The Professional Approach to Model Railways' from the internet; (Out of print at the moment new edition due early 2009) you will find details of how to build baseboards and on page 56 you will find the method I have described.

For my street credit see some of my posted photos...

JohnPro
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your answers. The baseboard is actually made of a lattice of cross members and it has been a pain to design the layout so that point motors will fit,in fact in a few places I shall have to use the new surface point motors.
 

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QUOTE (randolph @ 8 Sep 2008, 01:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for your answers. The baseboard is actually made of a lattice of cross members and it has been a pain to design the layout so that point motors will fit,in fact in a few places I shall have to use the new surface point motors.

Hi,
If you glued and srewed your cross members to the board, should you come across one when fitting a point work out where it is on the cross member and cut the area needed with a boarding saw with two cuts and knock out the waste area ....... fit the point and your fine as the other part of the cross member if glued will not lose any strength holding the baseboard in place.
Saves having to hide surface mounted points.
 

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I have used sundella board on my layout for many years now, and been very happy with it, but saying that it does need care when fixing down, as it has a bad habit of bowing, (you will probraby notice that its bowed when you take delivery of it) mine is screwed down onto chip board, it does need a good base to be fixed to, my points are operated from lever frames, so i dont have the problem with hiding point motors, it also has good sound deadening properties, and as mentioned before, the easiest way to cut is with an panel saw.
 
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