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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to start a thread about whats on our respective benches at the moment but i didnt know where to put it so i thought i would start here with mine.

I am currently doing a Night Ferry coach.

Body shell in its current state.


Interior



Attaching the ends


i have 4 DC kits TPO's on the go


A 5 car coronation set (soon to be upgraded to the full 9 cars.



Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I work unsociable hours but i only work 7 days a fortnight so i often find myself doing modelling when the rest of london is fast asleep! its amazing how much you can get done when all there is to watch on telly is news 24 or BBC sign zone!

The A4 is the bachmann (ex mainline) model. it was a present from my father at the york railfest. its a great runner. very smooth.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The body and ends and roof all came in at 200g so i am expecting the finished article to weigh in at 400g.
Total train weight (6 sleepers and a break van. i wont use the mk1's of the SNCF break vans as i think they look untidy!) about 2.5kg. definatly a double header!!

I got the roof on but i am not very happy with the fit and it might come off again. i got a good fit the other night but then i adjusted a bit and then another bit and it all went down hill from there.




Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hello Brian

Sounds good!

I want to do a steamlined B17 myself. i am waiting for the dean sidings body or the other one that sometimes crops up at shows.

On the silver jubilee the lining is far easier to do with a bow pen than it is with transfers. its all straight lines and humbrol silver works quite well. if you were doing boiler bands then yes i agree go with transfers but for the jubilee its so much easier with a pen. you dont need a steadier hand than you do with transfers. do all the verticals in one go then all the horizontals. its all 1 colour so its simple. dont forget to give the shiny sides a quick rub before you paint them. the first time i did it all the paint came off with my masking tape (there was lots of swearing!!)

Its also a heck of alot quicker with the pen!

Peter
 

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Dean sidings are doing resin kits. they are advertised in model rail. i have seen the pre production samples and they look good but its the old case of "which christmas?" syndrome!
But i have so much other stuff on the go (see earlier in this thread that i can afford to wait. i will have a chat with him at warley. i want to get a resistance soldering set from him anyway.

A bow pen is a very old fasioned type of pen. if people are interested i will write a lining guide for the forum reviewing both the bow and the bob moore (i use both)

bow pens can be found made buy a swiss firm called haff. you can set the thickness of the line to any thickness you like. with the bob moore you are more or less restricted buy the size of the tip which is not wide enough to do the corrie or the silver jubilee. thats why i recommended the bow.

i will take some pictures of them both over the next few days.

I am in a cafe now so i dont want to put pics on here now.

peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
ozzie you are soooooooooooooooo close. justn put one at each end of the location and you should have it. in one of the boxes under the picture on photobucket it actually has it written exactly the way you need it so you can just cut and paste it into the forum. its much qucker than doing it but hand.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I earlier in this thread Bor sewell asked about different lining pens. i have been working on a lining guide that i will post in a different part of the forum but for now here is a pic of the 2 types. on the left the bob moore and on the right my bow pen (over 100 years old now!)



The bob moore is much easier to use but you are restricted in the width of the lines because of the head sizes. the bow pen can be infinitly adjusted using the screw.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
In a word YES its bloddy hard!

if i have done a line with the bow pen then i either use transfers for corners or paint them buy hand. if you paint the line then you can use a clean paintbrush dipped in cellulose thinners to make it look much neater. it sucks up your mistakes.
Give it a go on a piece of scrap. Its not too hard this way.

but be carefull with the cellulose thinner. my worst model railway accident was when i accidently sprayed cellulose thinners into my face. morfeilds eye hospital at 11pm is not a plesnt place to be!

Boiler bands are easy. do them straight and flat on a piece of dfecal paper. Cut out a strip and apply it as you would any other transfer.

Or just buy flat models with no curves!
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Yep Ratio.

late last night i started to paint the brown on the 4 wheeled GWR stock you can see in the backround.
I like the ratio kits. take your time and they turn into a really nice piece of stock.

the roof still needs painting and transfers and buffers and a few other bits and bobs.

Peter
 

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The cylinders on the W1 have a sort of bulge over the LP cylinder. the bulge is completly missing on Se finecasts casings. its not too big a deal just an hour or so with millput and a file. but its a pain in the neck. interestingly the cylinder covers are the right size for the bulge!
Also the whole thing is not quite square but its close enough for me and i think once its painted nobody will notice.
I still concider it a supprisingly good kit for such and unusual prototype.

I wouldnt worry too much about the front footsteps. things never look very good whent the pictures are blown up on screen. but when its painted and you are looking at it in person often it will look perfectly ok. and with the exposed driging wheels who is going to be looking at the front footsteps? i once had a very nice chat with an animator for disney. and he was telling me that the eye is naturally drawn to places with the most detail. he could sneak all sorts of things into the backround of the cartoons and nobody would ever notice! i think the same applys to models. i once saw a very good layout with a very nicely detailed building. my eyes were drawin to it and it looked fantastic. on my secont trip around the exhibition it was much busier and i was on the second row and i couldnt see the building. i was shocked! the fences were bits of card and the hedges were blocks of wood covered in flock!! but oince i could see the building again the illusion was restored.

I think your loco is fine. as for the drain lines, yes you need to look harder!!

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I am getting a bit overwhelmed at the moment. i have some GWR 4 wheelers on the go. i have done the cream but the brown needs another coat and i need to finish the lining.
The LNWR coach is comming on (and even though i do say so myself is looking fantastic!)
At the front is a set of 4 radley A-stock underframes. the resin bodies are all done there is just a couple more parts to put on them. the MR clerestories are all but done. they need transfers and there finished.

Then in the red corner there are the other 3 MR clerestories in the rake. they are waiting for some replacement roof parts from Ratio.
3More A stock chassis. they are all done but need the floors sorting out.
Sitting on the platform are the roofs and bogies for the MR clerestories. and my genesis conger set.
at the front are bogies for yet more A stock and F stock.


Peter
 
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