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Thanks, I've still got a few things to add, like valve gear, buffers and couplings. The DJH valve gear is supposed to be riveted but I'm having trouble with the solid rivets supplied and iIve run out of hollow ones so I'm using 16BA screws with the heads thinned down. The buffers supplied are shockers so I'm going to try and get a sprung set when I'm in Sydney next week same for the couplings. Apart from that I'll sort out the pickups and add the beading round the top of the tender and fit some new steps to the back of the tender as it doesen't have enough for BR days and fit the head light The Garrett uses etched brass brake gear and it's little finicky to fit and from time to time it touches so it's on the bench to have it all removed and remounted and hopefully it'll stop shorting out.
A front end shot of Big Bertha,


Ozzie21

QUOTE (Makemineadouble @ 9 Nov 2006, 21:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I'm impressed with the Lickey Banker (Big Bertha) the Garret too photo's add a lot of intrest
thanks
 

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Neil, if you are considering the Garrett budget around a hundered hours to get it built. I's farly easy to convert to DCC as it's aready supplied with individual pickups but the hard thing is finding a spot for the decoder. When I built the boiler section I made it so the boiler could be seperated from the footplate. Trouble was I was away for a few weeks and when I came back I started to solder all the bits onto the boiler forgetting than I needed it to come apart to fit the decoder into. A few choice words were said that day.

Ozzie21

QUOTE (neil_s_wood @ 9 Nov 2006, 17:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I may well do that. Very impressed with the pictures Ozzie. Look forward to seeing more. You might have convinced me to give the Garrat kit a go.
 

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I like the photos too - especially Big Bertha.

David
 

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QUOTE (Ozzie21 @ 10 Nov 2006, 00:32) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Neil, if you are considering the Garrett budget around a hundered hours to get it built. I's farly easy to convert to DCC as it's aready supplied with individual pickups but the hard thing is finding a spot for the decoder. When I built the boiler section I made it so the boiler could be seperated from the footplate. Trouble was I was away for a few weeks and when I came back I started to solder all the bits onto the boiler forgetting than I needed it to come apart to fit the decoder into. A few choice words were said that day.

Ozzie21
Ozzie, is your kit the DJH one or the Footplate models one?

Thanks mate.
 

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Neil, It's the Footplate Models one. I wouldn't buy the DJH one as it costs a heap more than the Footplate Models one and it's only single motor drive through a Romford gearbox. I've found that the openframe Romford gearbox can be a bit noisy, picks up little bits crap and is messy throwing oil and grease around the place. The NWSL gearboxes supplied with the Footplate kit are fully enclosed and as you can see from the picture they have a nice solid mounting. The only problem is that the 1/8th of an inch axle gearbox is getting harder to get as only thre UK and USA use that size. Most other brass and kit manufacturers use 3mm and I'd like to try fitting a NWSL gear box to my next project, a Standard 4 2-6-0 but I have to find a gearbox first.

Ozzie 21

QUOTE (neil_s_wood @ 10 Nov 2006, 07:43) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ozzie, is your kit the DJH one or the Footplate models one?

Thanks mate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I earlier in this thread Bor sewell asked about different lining pens. i have been working on a lining guide that i will post in a different part of the forum but for now here is a pic of the 2 types. on the left the bob moore and on the right my bow pen (over 100 years old now!)



The bob moore is much easier to use but you are restricted in the width of the lines because of the head sizes. the bow pen can be infinitly adjusted using the screw.

Peter
 

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Peter, I noticed in my lastest Model Rail an article on lining out a Brassworks "O" guage A3. The painter used a bow pen to do some of the lining but it seems for the bulk of it, boiler bands and the tender curves he used Fox decals. I've never used a bow pen or lining pen so are curves very difficult to master when using a bow pen.

Ozzie21
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
In a word YES its bloddy hard!

if i have done a line with the bow pen then i either use transfers for corners or paint them buy hand. if you paint the line then you can use a clean paintbrush dipped in cellulose thinners to make it look much neater. it sucks up your mistakes.
Give it a go on a piece of scrap. Its not too hard this way.

but be carefull with the cellulose thinner. my worst model railway accident was when i accidently sprayed cellulose thinners into my face. morfeilds eye hospital at 11pm is not a plesnt place to be!

Boiler bands are easy. do them straight and flat on a piece of dfecal paper. Cut out a strip and apply it as you would any other transfer.

Or just buy flat models with no curves!
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Yep Ratio.

late last night i started to paint the brown on the 4 wheeled GWR stock you can see in the backround.
I like the ratio kits. take your time and they turn into a really nice piece of stock.

the roof still needs painting and transfers and buffers and a few other bits and bobs.

Peter
 

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Neil asked about the C&O Allegheny or H-8 so here's some pictures of mine.



The pair of them sitting together.



This is numbered 1647 and is a good model but not a great one. The overfire jets on the sides of the firebox are too small and the stack is wrong height for a last built batch. The model has one of the best drive systems I've seen in a brass model and is whisper quiet for a split drive. It's powered by a 30mm Cannon motor and was Key Import.



This one is numbered 1601 and is a Fujiyama Crown series model. It is numered incorrectly for it is a last batch build having the overfire jets and the 18inch stack. This is much better detailed model than the Key model but was let down by a noisy drive system. It was so loud you had to shout when it was running. I replaced both axle gearboxes and the reduction/transfer gear box with an after market kit I got from Japan.



A front end shot of 1601. Both models are set up for DCC with individual pickups to all drive and tender wheels, lights and sound with Soundtraxx Tsunami decoders. Chuff is controlled by Grizzly Moutain Engineering cams.

In real life these were absolute monsters with 110,200lbs of tractive effort, estimated 7,000dbhp, 39ton axle loading and an all up weight of about 536tons. This gave the H-8 the ability to 14,000tons at 45mph and speeds of 68 mph were sustained in the flatlands of Ohio with 11,500 tons behind the tender.

Ozzie21
 

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Pete I have built Big Bertha and several other DJH kits insted of the rivets I have used BRASS LACE PINS which can be soldered to the rear linkage to form a pivot and ate alot easyer to to handel and less chance of damage to the linkage etching.

Pete
 

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Neil, no they are RTR if you can call american brass that. They are terrific models but they are for the most part "collectors items".and most people buy them and leave them in a glass case. Not me if I 'm going to spend that much money on them that are going to run. Try this website if you want a look
http://www.brasstrains.com. It's a fairly good site with a lot of information for the " collector".

Ozzie21
 

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Er...............just checked - I now have a r/c dalek in for body repairs.

not very railway!

regards

John
 

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QUOTE (Ozzie21 @ 13 Nov 2006, 19:18) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Neil, no they are RTR if you can call american brass that. They are terrific models but they are for the most part "collectors items".and most people buy them and leave them in a glass case. Not me if I 'm going to spend that much money on them that are going to run. Try this website if you want a look
http://www.brasstrains.com. It's a fairly good site with a lot of information for the " collector".

Ozzie21
Thanks for that Ozzie, some pretty awesome stuff on that site. I may get myself into some serious trouble now. Cheers mate.
 

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Hi Brian my bench was the same until last night I am trying to detail class58 I think a new catch phase should be started that is UMWB under my work bench in my case 8 locos of different class to be fitted with express models lighting kit, 1 deltic to have brass buffers painted, 20 lima locos to be sold on ebay Hymek half detailed in 1986 to be finished, lima coach to fitted with Kadees, airbrush to be unpacked and practice with before spraying class 58, 20 bottles of Railmatch paints to be used for weathering when I can pluck up the courage to have ago at airbrushing my £70 models
 
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