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Hi Alan

Just a question/observation really mate, On your trackplan, if you follow the track from the bottom lefthand side and follow the top track, go into the middle platform but on the left of it, When you leave it looks like you will then 'crossover' and the train will then be on the 'outside' of the trackplan when it came in on the 'inside'! Is this intentional ? (It probably is). I am just wondering mate really.

Are you running DCC ? Just wondering mate. Love the trackplan by the way.

Kind regards

Paul
 
Hi Paul I can't quite get what you mean, I think the idea is that from the station throat a path can be set from any of the two tracks to any of the four platforms or even the little siding.

If we consider the inner circuit the up-line and the left side of the station as Platform 1 then a train would normally come up through the station On Platform 1 or 3 through the O/head building and up to the crossover section returning to the inner circuit. On the outer circuit it would pass the crossover splitting to either Platform 2 or 4 and this time set the path to continue on through the station throat to the outer circuit once more. (If you understood that the you are a better man than me!)

I Believe through my research that it was common in steam days for engines to run around trains this plan I think gives me this feature. Also there are a few shunting possibilties with the goods shed and the little siding to the right of the track plan. Or I could use this little siding to continue along the Platform and have an extra platform for DMU's or suburban branchline trains. It's all part of the adventure I guess, seeing how it develops.


Oh and BTW I'm using DC hence the Control panel and all the section switches. I like figuring out that bit


Cheers

Alan
 
** Alan, looking good!

If you aren't going to brace that chipboard, do at least give it a good coat of sealer top, edges and bottom - it'll keep it more stable as its when the hunidity changes tha tit will become "less flat" otherwise.

Re the dowells being tight, take a rat tail file and just twist it in the holes a wee bit to slightly relieve the holes, then rub the dowells with a bit of wax or a bar of plain old soap. They'll become smooth and it'll be easier to get the board on and off...

(keep the soap bar in the tool chest - a bit rubbed on a handsaw blade makes it glide through the wood more easily as you cut too...)

Richard
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Nice One Richard

I'll take note of those tips, although I've worked with wood a lot, and my brother in law's a joiner I've never heard of the soap trick. I also work with cables a lot, guitar and mics, etc and have a jar of vaseline in my toolbox for putting on tight jack plugs and such. A similar trick but I do get the odd look when people look through my toolbox to borrow stuff (
I'm a married man , Honest)

The sealant, I can honestly say I hadn't thought of so also cheers for that.I have a tin of varnish going spare. The platforms I think I'm going to make out of short planks, planed to the correct thickness, I'm hoping this will also help brace the board a little.

Cheers

Alan
 
***Cheers Alan - the soap trick is from my dad, who did his apprenticeship when it was 7 years to qualify as a cabinetmaker, pre WW2.

Richard
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Funny you should say that Vase!

I have now completed the upper section baseboards, have one complete circuit and am now constructing platform 4 & 5. (1 to 3 will be later.)

Here is a couple of pics taken today. Hope you like.

First connections from the control panel go here. ( I seriously need to label these
)



Next the Control Panel connection and D-plug. I think this has given me good practice at soldering




Platform construction underway



Dry fit of the top to see what it looks like.



And lastly a shot showing how the platform sides are held until the glue is dry!



I really am enjoying this bit


Cheers

Alan
 
Hi Alan

Nice to see you are doing some more on the layout! I really like the platforms, they look excellent and very nicely modelled may I say.

Kind regards

Paul
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Thanx guys

I hope to finish the platform in a few days, time permitting. I'll post asap with the finished product. I don't know if i'll do any painting just now, I may wait until all the platforms are made and do them all at once.

Cheers

Alan
 
Hi Everyone,

Bought some Slaters embossed plasticard today to try walling the platforms. Here is the result.









The small gaps will be filled and when painted hopefully you won't see the join.

Hope you like, comments appreciated.

Cheers

Alan
 
Looks good Alan, do they come with that inter matching pattern or did you very skillfully cut it in yourself?

Kind regards

Paul
 
QUOTE (The_Docster @ 27 Aug 2009, 14:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>No - had to cut it in


Hi Alan

Nice bit of work then mate


Kind regards

Paul
 
Just a couple of vids of one of my grandsons and myself "Playing Trains". I have 3 grandsons who love my shed and want to "help" all the time. BTW No engines were harmed during the making of these videos






For the confused- These videos were made before the upper section was completed!

Hope you enjoy.

Cheers

Alan
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
There are both old engines I had bought for my son years ago and have taken a lot of abuse. The grandson definitely doesn't get to drive the big ones.

And thanks for the comments. I have now painted the platform and I think it looks ok. I will post the updates soon.

Just a quick question for anybody in the know. Does anyone have any idea when the white edges on platforms were introduced? I don't know whether to include this or not, my main era is 60'/70's (however I will run a few experimental HST's etc)

Cheers

Alan
 
They are built to withstand a nuclear holocaust. Mine must be that old too and they still fetch a good sum on ebay. The first thing that goes wrong usually is a loud humming but even then they still work. I know cause i've had 2 do that to me. But I am going to change soon to panel mount gaugemasters. I already have a dual feedback controller just need the transformer now.

Cheers

Alan
 
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