Tillig Three Rail rack

6262 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Doug, Dec 1, 2008

simonj

Discussion Starter · Nov 17, 2008

Has anybody used the Tilling three rail track that combines HO with HOm on a single stretch. I may use some for a part of my layout but was wondering how easy it is to connect to Peco code 75 rails. Just incase some were wondering what it looks like here's a few pics.

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34C

· #2 · Nov 17, 2008

You will have to match rail heights between the Tillig code 82, and Peco code 75. Probably just a bit of careful packing and some experimentation with the Peco and Tillig rail joiners to find a means of adjustment so that the rail tops match perfectly for height.

As an example I join code 75 SMP to Peco code 100 used in the 'off-scene' areas, by crushing flat one half of a code 100 rail joiner, and soldering half a code 75 joiner on top of the crushed section. Sounds crude but it does the job. A similar technique can probably be devised for the combination you propose.

If only there was mixed gauge track in the UK. Very tempted by the Tillig dual gauge stuff, particularly the chance to incorporate a sway.

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Doug

· #3 · Nov 17, 2008 (Edited by Moderator)

I use the Tillig HO/HOe track. It is very good. I use the shared track here as a programming track for my DCC system so I can program the HO/OO locos and the HOe locos in the same place. The programming track can be switched from programming mode to normal DCC so locos can drive on and off.

There is sometimes a problem with shorts on the adaptor piece (above) if both the HO and the HOe lines are powered up at the same time so I use a switch to switch between the two. The downside is that I can't have HO and HOe locos running at the same time on this piece of track, but it isn't a problem.

You can see the switch lever sticking up between the exit rails of the HO/HOe adaptor.

Regarding connecting Tillig to Peco, I have done this in a few areas. I shim the Tillig track with card and stick everything down with PVA. I use a long piece - about 20cm, then a shorter piece - about 7cm, to build up the 'ramp' from the shorter Tillig to the higher Peco. Make sure the rail tops are level and the inner faces of the two types of rail are lined up.

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simonj

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 17, 2008

Could you not dual wire the track if you were using DCC? For example one wire to the shared rail and the other wire split so that it supplies both of the other two rails? thanks for the feedback

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Doug

· #5 · Nov 18, 2008 (Edited by Moderator)

I tried connecting them both at the same time, but I always got a shot where indicated above so I installed a switch (indicated). Try it out, perhaps you won't have a problem with HOm. You can paint a little varnish over the area where the short occurs. That could help if the other wheels continue to pick-up the current.

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Richard Johnson

· #6 · Nov 18, 2008

*** Hi Doug

I think yours is the simplest solution as is - however you could mod it like this and then switch the polarity via the point that selects that standard gauge siding...

Richard

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Doug

· #7 · Nov 29, 2008 (Edited by Moderator)

QUOTE (34C @ 17 Nov 2008, 11:41) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>... If only there was mixed gauge track in the UK. Very tempted by the Tillig dual gauge stuff, particularly the chance to incorporate a sway.

I was looking at this article on the BBC about photojournalist David White who set out - using non toxic methods - to recreate some of Robert Howlett's images of Isambard Kingdom Brunel's engineering achievement.

I saw this:

It looks like dual gauge track laid on a coastal line (Teignmouth?). Is it a dual gauge or just some sort of indicator rail?

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dwb

· #8 · Nov 29, 2008

QUOTE Is it a dual gauge or just some sort of indicator rail?

I took it to be either a new rail waiting to be used or an old one waiting to be collected. It is common to see long lengths of rail adjacent to the running lines in my experience.

David