[slot.jockey]

Just planning my first permenant 00 layout with flexi track and was thinking about tillig elite HO track. I assume this has the same dimensions as OO track as in OO its the trains that are scaled up ? My layout will be a long L shape 7 m x 5 m but I don`t need too many points and intend to operate them manually to save money and I will mostly be modelling the countryside. Will be using DCC for the first time would there be any problems running modern hornby / bachmann on this track.

 

[34C]

Current Bachmann and Hornby run perfectly on Tillig. In respect of gauge, OO uses HO track dimensions. One small thing you will have to tackle is point locking for manual operation, as I don't believe Tillig points are self locking. So you will need to add a mechanism to lock the point in the chosen direction. A convenient method for manual control is to use a 'make/make' slide switch which can switch crossing polarity, and have a wire rod for the point tiebar driven by the switch movement by simply drilling a hole in the slider to take the wire. If the slider travel is excessive for the point blade movement required this can be taken up by a spring; or better, a compensating lever to reduce the travel.

 

[Brian Considine]

Tillig is a superb track with excellent running qualities.

The points do not self lock - why not do a superb mechanism justice & use slow action point motors (such as Fulgurex, Lemaco or Tortoise) ?

 

[Tridant]

Having just finished laying a 28' X 8' mobile layout using Tillig HO Elite track with ballast underlay, the end result is excellent. To get there however has its difficulties.
For:
Excellent finished product, very realistic.
If using ballast underlay it is easy to put track and underlay together.
Manufacture is to a high standard.
Points look like hand made. (Live frog only)
Already weathered.
Against:
A tad on the expensive side.
Instructions are in German.
If using ballast underlay it is relative tricky to use on curves.
The ballast underlay is confined to one shade for the moment.
As mentioned above the points are live frog only and you have to use self latching points motors. Tillig have their own motors but have stopped producing them, they are introducing a new motor. The old one was DCC friendly and a bit on the noisy side. One can of course use any make of self latching point motor but the one issue to look out for is that the hole in the tie bar is too small and it requires drilling. I used point motors from Gaugemaster which have the ability to switch the frog polarity.
If using the ballast underlay you use a heat gun or hairdryer to warm the underlay to insert the track and create curves. The flex track has no issues making curves but the underlay is not as flexible as the track. It takes a bit of work and patience to get the desired curve, but well worth the effort. Having the instructions in German does not help.
If you are going to us ballasted underlay make sure you get extra bottles of ballast.

 

[slot.jockey]

Thanks for the replies, could I connect a peco turntable and hornby set track (for fiddle yard) with tillig track .

 

[neil_s_wood]

QUOTE (slot.jockey @ 2 Sep 2008, 16:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the replies, could I connect a peco turntable and hornby set track (for fiddle yard) with tillig track .
You would have to use special track connectors as the Hornby and Peco are code 100 and Tillig is code 83.

 

[Kimbo]

Linked to this Tillig question: Are the cross-overs and switches all do-it-yourself or do they have read-made ones?

In the end for a first-timer is Tillig still a good choice, or it is better to settle on a Peco track, or another brand?

 

[34C]

QUOTE (neil_s_wood @ 2 Sep 2008, 06:35) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You would have to use special track connectors as the Hornby and Peco are code 100 and Tillig is code 83.
But don't buy them! To join code 100 to code 83 just remove the top parts of half a code 100 rail joiner, and solder on half a code 83 joiner. (For code 100 to 75, you crush half of the code 100 joiner, and solder on half a code 75 joiner.)
QUOTE (Kimbo @ 2 Sep 2008, 08:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Linked to this Tillig question: Are the cross-overs and switches all do-it-yourself or do they have read-made ones?

In the end for a first-timer is Tillig still a good choice, or it is better to settle on a Peco track, or another brand?
Tillig have both ready made pointwork and kit build options available. Tilling appears to offer the most accurate RTR HO track representing European practise currently available, but someone with better current knowledge of HO may know better. (And there is some excellent choice in their range for integration of narrow gauge and standard gauge.) If I was modelling European HO it would be my choice: like any track system you will have to learn how to get the best out of it, both by exchanging experience with others, and by personal practice. It may not be as simple as Peco, but if you want something that looks more like the prototype...

 

[Kimbo]

Thanks 34C for your input!

 

[slot.jockey]

Thanks for the replies I`m going to buy all the flexitrack first and lay out before buying the points but could someone tell me the diffferences between a double inside and double outside slip ?

 

[34C]

They are illustrated on the retailer's site. The 'outside slip' is the one shown as 'Baseler pattern': basically the curved routes don't go through the diamond crossing element as I understand it. A less compact formation, but less crowded and probably simpler to both build and maintain on the prototype.