Tortoise Point Motors
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QUOTE (ebaykal @ 2 Apr 2007, 13:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Has anybody heard abt or even used this so called point motors.
Baykal
Yes. They are excellent.
"so called".....What do you mean?
Baykal
Yes. They are excellent.
"so called".....What do you mean?
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5,592 Posts
No I haven't used them yet, but yes I'll be using them on my next layout and I have stock. It's a slow action motor unlike the Peco which can described as snap action. Their ideal for DCC operation and have polarity switching built into the circuit board. For quite a bit more you can attach the Hare. Full details on the URL
Tony's Trains Circuiton
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Where did the reference to Tortoise go ! he must have done a fast Edit !
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Tony's Trains Circuiton
Where did the reference to Tortoise go ! he must have done a fast Edit !
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2,151 Posts
One of my friends during a chat on the web mentioned it.
I was bragging abt that I blew up 2 point motors and that..He recommended it due to its slow action.
To be honest haven't heard of up till that day.
Thanks for the information and link.
Baykal
I was bragging abt that I blew up 2 point motors and that..He recommended it due to its slow action.
To be honest haven't heard of up till that day.
Thanks for the information and link.
Baykal
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3,614 Posts
they are very good. due to the cost you might like to think about selecting where you put them. for example you dont need them in the fiddle yard.
Wiring them is also a bit more involved. they need a constant power supply but they incorporate switching for the frogs.
They can also be a tad noisy. you might like to think weather you want a quick snap or a long drawn out grinding sound!
Peter
Wiring them is also a bit more involved. they need a constant power supply but they incorporate switching for the frogs.
They can also be a tad noisy. you might like to think weather you want a quick snap or a long drawn out grinding sound!
Peter
I use Tortoises on my layout. I must have about 20. I like them. I am using Peco points and the over center spring has to be removed. I found the the steel wire provided (0.020" I believe) sometimes has trouble completing the point throw - so I changed to 0.032" wire for some of mine - that works better. The solenoid (snap) point motors are said to be hard on points. The nice thing is that you get two sets of contacts - I use the first to switch frog polarity (I HATE those wimbly tabs on the blades of Peco points). I use a cheap DC controller set to about 75% for power and yes there is a constant hum from the motors being constantly stalled out.
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4,794 Posts
I have looked at the Tortoise motors. I found them a little expensive. Especially if you add the Rabbit DCC controller.
The Tillig slow action motors are cheaper and do the same thing. And they don't hum.
Look here and here (on my blog)
I've promised a member here already to do a photo-review of the installation of these Tillig motors. I'll do it in the next week or two.
The Tillig slow action motors are cheaper and do the same thing. And they don't hum.
Look here and here (on my blog)
I've promised a member here already to do a photo-review of the installation of these Tillig motors. I'll do it in the next week or two.
I have always used both Fulgurex and Lemaco Point motors. They have the advantage that the power is turned off at the end of the travel of the motor rather than ity being left to stall as on the Tortoise.
Fulgurex and Lemaco are very similar in operation and use similar components. I find them both very reliable. They are slow acting and each one has two spare relays, with room to add on another two if required.
See: http://www.fulgurex.ch/en/index.html
There are installation instructions here: http://www.finescale.org.uk/finescale/fulgurex.htm
You can get them from DCC Supplies for example: http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_in...products_id=284
Colombo
Fulgurex and Lemaco are very similar in operation and use similar components. I find them both very reliable. They are slow acting and each one has two spare relays, with room to add on another two if required.
See: http://www.fulgurex.ch/en/index.html
There are installation instructions here: http://www.finescale.org.uk/finescale/fulgurex.htm
You can get them from DCC Supplies for example: http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_in...products_id=284
Colombo
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1,313 Posts
I am using peco solenoids on peco points & tortoise on the hand made points so that they do not suffer the slam-bam of solenoids. They are a bit dearer than Peco but at least they have 2 changeover switches & I find that they are quiet even at the stall mode. I use 9v only & one of my Australian friends uses 6v & he indicates they are quieter again & still work OK.
The point blades have to be free moving though. A couple of years ago, I used Lemaco, work well but are noisy until they switch off - at least you know they are working.
The point blades have to be free moving though. A couple of years ago, I used Lemaco, work well but are noisy until they switch off - at least you know they are working.
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7,397 Posts
QUOTE (Doug @ 16 Aug 2007, 16:46) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I have looked at the Tortoise motors. I found them a little expensive. Especially if you add the Rabbit DCC controller.
The Tillig slow action motors are cheaper and do the same thing. And they don't hum.
Look here and here (on my blog)
I've promised a member here already to do a photo-review of the installation of these Tillig motors. I'll do it in the next week or two.
I've also been trying a combination of point motors with various point decoders and am coming to the conclusion that Tortoise are more hassle than they are worth. I will also be instaling Tillig point motors in the next week or so and they do seem to be easier than the Tortoise to install and aren't as big and bulky.
There is none of the associated problems of finding the correct diodes and installing them.
The Tillig slow action motors are cheaper and do the same thing. And they don't hum.
Look here and here (on my blog)
I've promised a member here already to do a photo-review of the installation of these Tillig motors. I'll do it in the next week or two.
I've also been trying a combination of point motors with various point decoders and am coming to the conclusion that Tortoise are more hassle than they are worth. I will also be instaling Tillig point motors in the next week or so and they do seem to be easier than the Tortoise to install and aren't as big and bulky.
There is none of the associated problems of finding the correct diodes and installing them.
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29 Posts
We use tortoise exclusively for all our points, including the fiddle yards - they don't hum (maybe ours know the words
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All our motors are controlled by RailRoad and Co software through DCE switchits (or switch8s)
On Widnes the fiddle yard is Peco based and by using stiffer wire we have found there is no need to remove the over centre spring.
Here's a view of part of one end of our fiddle yard.
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All our motors are controlled by RailRoad and Co software through DCE switchits (or switch8s)
On Widnes the fiddle yard is Peco based and by using stiffer wire we have found there is no need to remove the over centre spring.
Here's a view of part of one end of our fiddle yard.
Hi All,
I'd like to use a slow action point motor like the Tortoise, but I only have 45mm clearance underneath my layout (it sits on the floor on its "metric 2 x 1" frame) so I've only used Peco and Seep solenoids so far. Is there a low-profile Tortoise-type motor?
I suppose I could use memory wire, but I'd have to make a few more mechanical bits than I'm used to for moving my Peco Code 55 N Gauge points and I'm worried about the power consumption while the points are in their "reverse" or "thrown" position. (Assuming the memory wire works against a spring that returns the points back to their "normal" position).
Regards,
Dan
I'd like to use a slow action point motor like the Tortoise, but I only have 45mm clearance underneath my layout (it sits on the floor on its "metric 2 x 1" frame) so I've only used Peco and Seep solenoids so far. Is there a low-profile Tortoise-type motor?
I suppose I could use memory wire, but I'd have to make a few more mechanical bits than I'm used to for moving my Peco Code 55 N Gauge points and I'm worried about the power consumption while the points are in their "reverse" or "thrown" position. (Assuming the memory wire works against a spring that returns the points back to their "normal" position).
Regards,
Dan
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4,794 Posts
QUOTE (rainprooftractor @ 17 Aug 2007, 16:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...but I only have 45mm clearance underneath my layout (it sits on the floor on its "metric 2 x 1" frame) ...
See here: http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=979
See here: http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=979
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10,021 Posts
When I see a photo of a fiddle yard like that, I do think it is a shame that you can't always see them well at an exhibition. Not everyone can spend the time necessary to watch a complete run through at the front side of an exhibit, and if everyone stood there for that long, few would get to see anything.
David
David
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29 Posts
QUOTE What are the spacers in the track - like the one just in front (on the next track) of the loco with lights on?
Its a joint we have made after laying, removed the peco sleepers and put a copper clad one each side to hold the rail, then cut ...
It was done when we installed power districts.
hth,
Its a joint we have made after laying, removed the peco sleepers and put a copper clad one each side to hold the rail, then cut ...
It was done when we installed power districts.
hth,
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