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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Its time to downsize
and a move is imminent
, so the layout will need to be dismantled and slightly reworked.
I am looking at the possible use of track spirals, so I can locate my storage tracks under the scenic station boards
.
I am looking for professionally made units as I do not have the time to make my own
.
Does any one have any experience of any UK supplier who would make, made to measure units?

David
 

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Noch produce these in various formats for both HO and N gauge - differing combinations of turns, half turns and so on will give complete spirals and differeing entry and exit points. They also supply catenary to match. Gaugemaster are the UK main agents but other retailers carry Noch.

60134
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (60134 @ 24 Jun 2007, 19:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Noch produce these in various formats for both HO and N gauge - differing combinations of turns, half turns and so on will give complete spirals and differeing entry and exit points. They also supply catenary to match. Gaugemaster are the UK main agents but other retailers carry Noch.

60134

Many thanks,I'll follow the lead up and see what they have to offer.

David
 

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Hi David,

Yes indeed NOCH do many versions of it, both in N and HO. Below is one of their N sprials.



Cheers
Baykal
 

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Do try and minimise how many levels the helix has, i.e. by making the storage level as close to the underside of the layout as is comforable for access/pointwork wiring etc. - I've seen several layouts with ridiculous gaps between levels and trains can spend ten minutes going round and round. A waste of time and the less time a train spends going uphill the less wear the drive system will have to endure...besides the driver will get a headache!

Goedel
 

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QUOTE (Brian @ 25 Jun 2007, 11:16) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi David
Give this chap a call (Harry Maynard) as he makes really good spirals in HO/OO & N scales Model Shop

Good luck


I can only endorse the above, I was actually speaking to him yesterday (I try not to look at his knees though)

Records

John
 

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QUOTE (dbclass50 @ 25 Jun 2007, 14:18) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I would hope not !

Or yours - that was too much for a single Sunday


Regards

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cheers Brian,I'll do that
.
I see that the banter is still going well

If I go with the spirals,I will be looking for a 50cm(18 inches in old money) height difference
That should sort the MEN from the BOYS as regards loco hauling power
Five and a half turns at, I hope one meter min radius,Hmm

All the best,

David
 

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I am building one at the moment, so if it works out then maybe I could build one for you? My topic is in the layots section. Il show you when its done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 29 Jun 2007, 15:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am building one at the moment, so if it works out then maybe I could build one for you? My topic is in the layots section. Il show you when its done.
Thanks,
I'll look forward to seeing the finished unit


All the best,

David
 

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Hi David,

I bought the materials for my helix yesterday and im finished already! Its so easy to do, all you need to be able to do is cut out the discs and drill some holes, It takes no time at all....

Il put some pics of mine up late.r..
 

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Hi David,

I bought the materials for my helix yesterday and im finished already! Its so easy to do, all you need to be able to do is cut out the discs and drill some holes, It takes no time at all....

Il put some pics of mine up late.r..
 

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Hoarp001,

Very good indeed.

I am also in the brink of constructing one myself.

Questions:

1) Did you use R2 and R3 or R1 and R2 radius ?

2) Seems like you have reached the top exit with 3 loops (assuming you are gong to stop there). What is the total height from ground zero to top exit ?

3)The thickness of the plywood you used?

4) and how on earth did you have it cut so smoothly? I can hardly see any joints where two parts meet.

5) finally the slope angle. Did you calculated it or was it a trial and error case?

Thanks
Baykal
 

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Nice work Hoarp001


David
 

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Hi,

I used R1 and R2. R1 is the down slope, and R2 is the up. I would have used R2 and 3, but I barely have the space in the eaves for the helix the size it is, R3 would ahve made it far too big to fit. If you have the space, go for R3, as it will lower the gra:dient.

Measuring from the floor to the exit point is innacurate, as the helix sits on a 1.5x1.5inch pine batten, which was to keep it nice and solid (and it works well too
) A better way of measuring is from the surface of the first deck, to the surface of the last deck. That measures 20cm.

The thickness is 12mm, but I seem to have shot myself in the foot, as the thickness of the material has a direct impact on the possible gradient. B&Q did 6mm MDF sheet the right size, but nowhere had it in stock. I had to settle for the 12mm stuff. Also beware as the size of MDF big enough for the cuts are huge, (1x2m) and need to be cut in store, unless you have a van to take it home.

I marked out the MDF sheet with abit of plastic, a nail and a pen, drawing two perfect circles and nailed the two bits of MDF together with the nailgun. I then cut the discs out with a jigsaw, just carefuly following the line. After that, I cut a slit in the two giant polo mints, so i could spread it out. I joined the three peices of MDF together using 'mending plates' and bolts. It takes a fair ammount of force to get the two ends to meet up, as the MDFs stiffness trys to keep them apart. With a bit of gentle pursuasion you can get it to fit and the join to be pretty smooth.

I did calculate the slope and I hoped it would be 1:50 but rather unfortunatly due to the thickness of the MDF and other unknown factors, it has ended up as 1:33, which, unfortunatly is too steep for my Class 101 DMU, which is the only train that will be going up and down this helix.

The good thing about this design is that the threaded rods allow complete adjustability. You are restricted only by the height of the trains you intend to send up the helix, in my case the highest is a little BR steamer. Its about 68-70mm. You need to calculate the height of each rod at all 5 points (there is four, but the first point counts as two as the track passes through it twice). In my case it was 0 to begin with, then the deck at each point was 1.75cm higher than the last (if that makes sense).

Its pretty easy really...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 3 Jul 2007, 19:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi David,

I bought the materials for my helix yesterday and im finished already! Its so easy to do, all you need to be able to do is cut out the discs and drill some holes, It takes no time at all....

Il put some pics of mine up late.r..

Very impressed with the result


Still looking for a house with "Suitable" layout room

The spirals will be used if a min space of 6 x 3meters is not found.
Spirals I have constructed in the past were the same principal of construction that you have used,But the base plate for the threaded rod was in the form of a table on legs.
The track spiral was made from 3ply,this allowed for overlaping on the joints.ie:-at the jointing of two sections you reduce the ply thickness to one ply and on the other joining peice to 2 ply for approx 50mm from the ends on each section.
Gluing together to form a sandwich joint,bringing the ply back to 3ply in thickness,or in other words no visable joint and a spiral track bed made in one section from top to bottom.
Is'nt modelling wonderful when you get to do projects like this


All the best,

David
 

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I just heaved the helix into the eaves where it will sit. I accidentatly put my foot through the floor. Oops.

Oh well, the helix fits perfectly, the entrances and exit line up perfectly. Its hanging on chains at the moment and its pretty solid. Cant wait to get trains up it :-D

Il get some pics in due course...
 
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