I've built the baseboard and having read many comments on this Forum have purchased Peco code 75.The next job is to lay the track but i'm going to have to use Tracksetta's. Do I need all the available Tracksetta sizes 10" through to 60"or are there certain sizes I will need more than others. Anyones advise would be really helpful
Tracksetta
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Tracksetta's are really useful. Stick to the more useful radi 24" 30" 36" and maybe larger depending on the area you have. Don't bother with anything smaller than 24" a lot of loco's won't go round these small radi.
You might want to make a trammel using some thing box wood and a nail as the centre, you can then measure off radius points drill a hole to accept a pencil and you can cover most useful sizes, and those that you don't have.
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You might want to make a trammel using some thing box wood and a nail as the centre, you can then measure off radius points drill a hole to accept a pencil and you can cover most useful sizes, and those that you don't have.
Thats what we did on our new layout. we had the straight, 24", 36" and 60". but we drew the layout on to the plywood whilst it was on the floor so had a piece of wood with 11 holes at various radii and just used that it worked really well but I would suggest that definitely get the straight ones as it was the most useful.
Alistair
Alistair
Not all shops stock the full range of Tracksetta's. In fact I've never seen more than the odd one or two in the various shops I have visitted.
If you want the full set, a saving can be made by ordering from the Signal Box.
SET00TSETTA
FULL SET OF 9 X OO/HO GAUGE TRACKSETTA TEMPLATES
SET INCLUDES. 1 OF EACH OF:
10" STRAIGHT PLUS
18",21",24",30",36" 42",48" AND 60" RADIUS TEMPLATES
Price: £28.80
They do the same deal for the 9mm Tracksetta's too.
If you want the full set, a saving can be made by ordering from the Signal Box.
SET00TSETTA
FULL SET OF 9 X OO/HO GAUGE TRACKSETTA TEMPLATES
SET INCLUDES. 1 OF EACH OF:
10" STRAIGHT PLUS
18",21",24",30",36" 42",48" AND 60" RADIUS TEMPLATES
Price: £28.80
They do the same deal for the 9mm Tracksetta's too.
Have a think about the transition from straight to a curve.
Flexitrack allows you to start with a gentle curve before tightening to your chosen radius.
These "easments" or "transition curves" make for a more realistic effect and replicate prototypical practise; however available space may restrict your ability to do this.
Flexitrack allows you to start with a gentle curve before tightening to your chosen radius.
These "easments" or "transition curves" make for a more realistic effect and replicate prototypical practise; however available space may restrict your ability to do this.
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QUOTE (Oakydoke @ 12 Dec 2006, 09:58) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Have a think about the transition from straight to a curve.
Flexitrack allows you to start with a gentle curve before tightening to your chosen radius.
These "easments" or "transition curves" make for a more realistic effect and replicate prototypical practise; however available space may restrict your ability to do this.
what would be the equivilant radius of the set track curves
Flexitrack allows you to start with a gentle curve before tightening to your chosen radius.
These "easments" or "transition curves" make for a more realistic effect and replicate prototypical practise; however available space may restrict your ability to do this.
what would be the equivilant radius of the set track curves
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The big problem with Tracksetta is that is does not fit the R1/2/3/4 standard as they are not made by Peco, you will never match the smooth curve of up to R4 from the pre manufactured curves and I would recommend using these on tighter radius.
R4 is 572mm which is 22.5 inches, as a result you do not need any tracksetta less than 24 inches.
Another problem is that as they step up at 3 inch centres then this is 75mm, so you cannot reproduce the 6 foot way (or 50mm centres) using tracksetta alone, you must lay the inside track and then take off the next track by using the Peco red gauge. Even at 24 inches (610mm) the tracks are getting too close so test with coaches to ensure the ends miss the other train on the parallel track.
Next getting the join is difficult, flex does want to straighten out so if you can avoid the join in the middle of a curve do so.
Finally long sweeping curves always look good and at large radiuses you really do not need a tracksetta anyway, so buy the 24, 27, 30 inch ones and try them first.
R4 is 572mm which is 22.5 inches, as a result you do not need any tracksetta less than 24 inches.
Another problem is that as they step up at 3 inch centres then this is 75mm, so you cannot reproduce the 6 foot way (or 50mm centres) using tracksetta alone, you must lay the inside track and then take off the next track by using the Peco red gauge. Even at 24 inches (610mm) the tracks are getting too close so test with coaches to ensure the ends miss the other train on the parallel track.
Next getting the join is difficult, flex does want to straighten out so if you can avoid the join in the middle of a curve do so.
Finally long sweeping curves always look good and at large radiuses you really do not need a tracksetta anyway, so buy the 24, 27, 30 inch ones and try them first.
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QUOTE (kristopher1805 @ 19 Jan 2012, 05:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The big problem with Tracksetta is that is does not fit the R1/2/3/4 standard as they are not made by Peco, you will never match the smooth curve of up to R4 from the pre manufactured curves and I would recommend using these on tighter radius.
R4 is 572mm which is 22.5 inches, as a result you do not need any tracksetta less than 24 inches.
Another problem is that as they step up at 3 inch centres then this is 75mm, so you cannot reproduce the 6 foot way (or 50mm centres) using tracksetta alone, you must lay the inside track and then take off the next track by using the Peco red gauge. Even at 24 inches (610mm) the tracks are getting too close so test with coaches to ensure the ends miss the other train on the parallel track.
Next getting the join is difficult, flex does want to straighten out so if you can avoid the join in the middle of a curve do so.
Finally long sweeping curves always look good and at large radiuses you really do not need a tracksetta anyway, so buy the 24, 27, 30 inch ones and try them first. but
the reason i asked is because i'm planing on building a small double track tale chaser layout but i want to use flexy track so i need the equivilant curves of set track but with flexi track, in other words graduated set track
i want the iner curves to be equivilent to R3 and the outer curves equivilent to R4
R4 is 572mm which is 22.5 inches, as a result you do not need any tracksetta less than 24 inches.
Another problem is that as they step up at 3 inch centres then this is 75mm, so you cannot reproduce the 6 foot way (or 50mm centres) using tracksetta alone, you must lay the inside track and then take off the next track by using the Peco red gauge. Even at 24 inches (610mm) the tracks are getting too close so test with coaches to ensure the ends miss the other train on the parallel track.
Next getting the join is difficult, flex does want to straighten out so if you can avoid the join in the middle of a curve do so.
Finally long sweeping curves always look good and at large radiuses you really do not need a tracksetta anyway, so buy the 24, 27, 30 inch ones and try them first. but
the reason i asked is because i'm planing on building a small double track tale chaser layout but i want to use flexy track so i need the equivilant curves of set track but with flexi track, in other words graduated set track
i want the iner curves to be equivilent to R3 and the outer curves equivilent to R4
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One way to get flexi to stick to a radius is to solder 2/3 lengths together via the rail joiners while it is all straight, and then bend the solid piece round to the nice smooth curve you want. I am aware that this creates a theoretical problem with track expansion but in practice I have never found it to be a problem and it is hot here (40C+). I guess I would say don't lay it while the railway room is excessively hot or cold. Also if you do it this way you can lay to your marked radius and let the end of the curve drift out a little to create transition curves the non engineer's way.
The point of a transition curve is that when a train comes to the end of a straight at any speed it sets itself smoothly up for a curve by taking up all the rim/rail clearances rather than suddenly lurching into its new alignment with the track.
Andrew
The point of a transition curve is that when a train comes to the end of a straight at any speed it sets itself smoothly up for a curve by taking up all the rim/rail clearances rather than suddenly lurching into its new alignment with the track.
Andrew
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Well now you know Mallardman is right about the solder but then you have to use that as the point in the middle, fix it and then bends the end away from the centre so you put less strain at the join. (I'm too last to do this)
R3 is 505mm or about 20 inches, there may be a 21 inch tracksetta but you will never get it right, then using a 24 inch will give too big a 6' way (the space between the rails on a railway)
So one way or t'other you're scuppered!
Take my advice use pre made rails its a lot less bother, you can use the flexi is you say used 3 not 4 one eight curves so then you can nicely transition onto the straight but getting it right will exercise your time.
Otherwise please prove me wrong, nothing like experience gained the hard way.
Good luck.
R3 is 505mm or about 20 inches, there may be a 21 inch tracksetta but you will never get it right, then using a 24 inch will give too big a 6' way (the space between the rails on a railway)
So one way or t'other you're scuppered!
Take my advice use pre made rails its a lot less bother, you can use the flexi is you say used 3 not 4 one eight curves so then you can nicely transition onto the straight but getting it right will exercise your time.
Otherwise please prove me wrong, nothing like experience gained the hard way.
Good luck.
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QUOTE (kristopher1805 @ 24 Jan 2012, 04:28) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Well now you know Mallardman is right about the solder but then you have to use that as the point in the middle, fix it and then bends the end away from the centre so you put less strain at the join. (I'm too last to do this)
R3 is 505mm or about 20 inches, there may be a 21 inch tracksetta but you will never get it right, then using a 24 inch will give too big a 6' way (the space between the rails on a railway)
So one way or t'other you're scuppered!
Take my advice use pre made rails its a lot less bother, you can use the flexi is you say used 3 not 4 one eight curves so then you can nicely transition onto the straight but getting it right will exercise your time.
Otherwise please prove me wrong, nothing like experience gained the hard way.
Good luck.
i counting on it being slightly smaller to take into account the transition of the curve, mabie if the curve started as flexitrack and then switched to set track then back to flexitrack, so its set track with a transition at each end
R3 is 505mm or about 20 inches, there may be a 21 inch tracksetta but you will never get it right, then using a 24 inch will give too big a 6' way (the space between the rails on a railway)
So one way or t'other you're scuppered!
Take my advice use pre made rails its a lot less bother, you can use the flexi is you say used 3 not 4 one eight curves so then you can nicely transition onto the straight but getting it right will exercise your time.
Otherwise please prove me wrong, nothing like experience gained the hard way.
Good luck.
i counting on it being slightly smaller to take into account the transition of the curve, mabie if the curve started as flexitrack and then switched to set track then back to flexitrack, so its set track with a transition at each end
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