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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi to all,

2nd member of the "trainz that never existed" project is about to finish.

In this second project i intended to build one big articulated bo-bo-bo loko from two V200 diesels.

Here we start!

A word of warning here: ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE GLASSES WHEN WORKING WITH METAL!

As indicated above i started to work on the main project TTNE - episode 2: articulated V200.

I removed the paint on two Marklin V200 (M* 3021) locomotives with Marshal paint remover - use paint removers with extreme care as they are corrosive!





It took me about 4 rounds of applying the paint remover and cleaning to get the two bodies to an acceptable level.

Then i cut the heads of the bodies with a hand drill.





And i got to plan the details of how to connect the two large bodies. In the meantime i put the remaining shorter head to a weird place that when i woke up they were the first things to see. Possibly seeing them that much made me start thinking "i must use those two for something too".

Later in the week, a friend posted a great work of weathering to our forum (marklinciyiz.biz - in Turkish) showing a locomotive body removed from the chasis sitting at the side of a loko shed. And that was the answer to my question of "what should i do with this Marklin Br 89 (M* 3000) with a broken body?".

When i was examining the 3000, i suddenly recalled the shorter heads of the 3021s. Tried them on the 3000 body and voila: perfect match!

So i put the major project aside and started with the "bonus" project. First thing i decided was to use the bumpers from the 3000 chasis giving the body a better place to sit on. So i first cut the bumber section off the heads - hand drill again.



Then, because i wanted the corners of the V200 heads to have a bit more flesh, i sanded the tiny portruding places on the chasis. While on that, i cut off the front stairs too as they wouldn't be needed.

Chasis stripped off the motor and all other removable stuff:



You can see the sanding at the back - the place that is shiny:



And the front - stairs are gone:



We finish with the chasis for now.

For the two heads were a bit longer than needed, i decide to keep the grills from one of them for better appereance. Doors, and windows right above those doors will be cancelled on one of the heads.

I carefully mark the line i will cut along with masking tape, and to be on the safe side i cut about 1 mm. off. Later i will file this excess part for perfect match.



After cuttuing is over i use a medium coarse, wide file to level the sides with the mark line, checking often both the match between the parts and their positioning on the chasis to make sure a perfect result.

When this is over i use two component putty to cancel the doors and windows.

And glued the two heads together with extra strong epoxy. At this stage i check the body on the chasis and a bit more cutting was required to make space for the pistons ... visible on the photo.



Excess putty for windows and doors is removed first with filing, and later with fishing stone.

When doing this the rods and wheel rims are painted: classic red/white TCDD scheme.

We're almost there. After putting the rods back into place i notice that the corners of the front side are too long and they restrict the piston rods, so they are cut at 0.5 cm. from the bottom.



After finishing with the chasis and the main body work, i drilled the screw hole on the ceiling and decide to add the handle details (found on modern versions of V200).

First the hole on top:



And the holes for the handles - notice that the "DB" mark and the "V200060" writing are gone too:



And the first layer of protective coating:



Body on the chasis; we're moving nicely:



At this stage i decide to hand-paint the model. Here's the first layer of paint:



And the second:



Looks awful - right? I thought so too, white protective coating was no good idea - so i decide to clean the whole body and start over.

After two layers of paint i feel much better. For the lining i used Tamiya titanium yellow.



And the details:



A second layer of paint on details makes them look much better:



Well, the painting part finishes and the fun part starts:

Using dry pastel all the way; i first "blackened" the model a bit. Then mixing some brown powdered dry pastel with water (now it becomes wet pastel
) i have tried to create rust effect. This is my first attempt of rusting and apart from some exagerrated parts, i think the technique worked pretty good.



After the first attempt i decide to thin the rust effect a bit at places, so i applied little green and used black wash to cover it (the photo above and below show the "before" of thinning the rust effect). Black wash applied to grills.





A little note on photography: to give you a better idea of the details i have used extreme close-ups. The model looks way better in reality - which you will see after the work is complete.

Next step: appliying details and mounting the motor and decoder. Due to crammed space i will use some strange apparatus for the headlights (i am hoping to be able to install red/white bulbs).

First the handrails:



Epoxy on the inside:



And now the handles:



The handrail detail parts are made of thickest plain guitar string (thickest gauge G string
)

TO BE CONTINUED ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 21 Mar 2008, 07:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am looking forward to seeing how you make the double unit.

Did you just use a slitting disc to cut the body shells?

Peter hi,

Thanks for the praise!

I will start with the double loko as soon as I finish with this one - it actually will be easier and faster than this one. I probably will finish with it by late June (busy at work). To give you a hint: it will have an imaginary TEE livery.

And yes, I used slitting discs - it takes about 2-4 discs for all the work done on two projects.

Best Regards,

Cem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok,

It's time to install the motor and the decoder. I choose to upgrade the original 3 pole rotor to a 5 pole one, and a simple decoder (Marklin) with light function will be used.

First I installed the motor and the rotor:



And then the motor shield:



Used double sided tape to hold the deoder in place:



Decoder installed:



And soldering is finished:



I will track-test the loko in weekend, and hope to finish with the lights nexts week some time: due to crammed space inside the shell, some work needed on lighting.

Regards,

Cem.
 

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That is absolutely brilliant ! One of the best 'might have been' locos I have ever seen.

Thanks for all of the photos too.

Look forward to seeing your next effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you!

Next one will be much nicer based on the experience on this one; promise!


Regards,

Cem.
 
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