[SeaScurge]

I have several Triang and Hornby trains from the 70s where the drive wheel slips and I suspect the cog is worn and needs replacement but I can't seem to find advice how the cog, wheels and axles are removed? Does anyone have any pointers and what tools are required? The axles run through the cast body in both-

• Hornby Flyings Scotsman. This only seems to run in reverse and the drive gear is worn. The motor turns in forward by the armiture seems to slip up and down on the shaft switching direction.
• 0-4-0 Triang red engine with silver dome 25550, the drive gear moves longitudinally slight along the axel as it runs and looses drive to worm gear. The teeth look slightly worn.

Thanks - Any pointers appreciated as I would love to get these 2 going again as they were my first trains as a kid. Cleaned up motors etc and therly run fine apart from this. I am also wondering about spacers to stop the movement but in the axel cases I need to get the wheels off, or am I just missing something?

 

[34C]

The wheels and gear are force ftted to knurled axle ends and a knurled mid section of the axle.

1. Remove the side rods.
2.Identify the wheel on the plastic hub insulator - it will be the same side as the wiper pick ups.
3. Scribe a clear register mark on this wheelface and across the axle end.
4. Support the chassis block on its side with about 10mm clear space underneath, above a solid surface with the marked wheel facing upwards.
5. Use a 'drift' (a blunted soft iron nail is good) and a small hammer to begin driving the axle out of the wheel hub, there will be extra resistance once the worm wheel has to be moved along the axle. Several modest hammer taps are better than one mighty blow.

Reassembly with a good gear and worm combination, with what you are seeing usually both need replacing. A worm puller is best to get the worm off the motor shaft (Eileen's Emporium sells a good one, but there are doubtless others). Alternatively this can be done using a slotted steel plate supported on slightly open vice jaws, and driving the motor shaft out of the worm with a thin drift; I wouldn't do this if the motor is still running well, a worm puller is far better.

6. Pressing the gears and wheels home is best done in a small engineering vice, as this can be done slowly under good control and ensures a perpendicular alignment of the wheel with the axle, and much less chance of a bent motor shaft.
7. Install axle gear and get centred on the knurled section before replacing the wheel.
8 Use the register mark to hand align the wheel on the axle end, with care you should be able to feel the splines come to the right alignment.
9. When alignment appears good, only then gently press home the wheel using the vice.

Usually the plastic hub insulator is good for at least one careful removal and replacement: there have been hub insulator spares available in the past, nowadays I would try 'Peter's Spares'.

 

[SeaScurge]

And before I saw the reply the Triang drive cog has fractured radially so I need to find a replacement cog supplier? I definitely need the to dismantle and refit the wheels on that axle and I will take your tooling advice for sure.

Your message is brilliantly detailed thanks and I will take my time to take it all in and act on it.

I will need to find a guide to cog and gear sizes and part names for Triang now too. Does anyone have any pointers here? Are the gears just an interference fit on the axle?

 

[34C]

The Triang axle gear fits on a splined section in the middle of the axle.

Now, I am no Triang expert, but to the best of my knowledge the Triang and Triang-Hornby steam locos with an XO3 or XO4 motor in the loco all had the same worm on the motor shaft, and either a larger pinion - that'll be on the pacific you have, or a smaller pinion, and that will be on the 0-4-0. Initially both were in brass, and then plastic came in.

Spares should be widely available as they were made in quantity, I'd just amble into my local model shop as he kept a good stock (KS Models, Old Stevenage).