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Is it possible to fit a dcc decoder to this loco. i bought this from a shop in eastbourne must be 15 years ago secondhand dont know much about it apart form what i have found on the net with a quick goggle iirc it had a wire going down to a v shaped wire (pickup up i take it ?) and i assume the chassis is the ground for the motor

If needed i will get some pics up. even better if some one has the service sheet for it ???

thanks in advance !!!!

edit its identical to this one................................

 

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QUOTE (flash2 @ 28 Jan 2008, 20:22) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Is it possible to fit a dcc decoder to this loco. i bought this from a shop in eastbourne must be 15 years ago secondhand dont know much about it apart form what i have found on the net with a quick goggle iirc it had a wire going down to a v shaped wire (pickup up i take it ?) and i assume the chassis is the ground for the motor

If needed i will get some pics up. even better if some one has the service sheet for it ???
thanks in advance !!!!

Yes, it is possible. Firstly make sure the motor is A1 mechanically & electrically. It must run smoothly, without stalling - remember the golden DCC rule "DCC will make a good runner better & a poor runner worse".

Remove any supression capacitor, in fact remove all the wiring, not that there is much. Insulate the "other" brush using heat shrink or similar. With you decoder of choice (make sure that it will take a good 1amp continuous, such as a TCS) connect the red wire to the insulated pick ups, the black one to the chassis, the orange one to the "original" insulated brush & the grey one to the "newly" insulated brush.

If you want to use the headlight you may have to find a smaller wattage bulb - from memory the original ones were very bright when running at full voltage. Connect the white wire to one side of the bulb & the other side of the bulb to the chassis.

You may find it an advantage to change the "knurled" wheels to assist pick up as well. Also watch out for the magnahesion (I think the Dock Shuners had it) magbets picking up debris & causing irratating shorts.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the information i have loads of heat shrink here so i may get the soldering iron out tomorrow. cheers
 

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The bulb needs to be connected to the blue and white wires, not to the chaisis as this will cause a short on the power control and blow the decoder. The loco will run OK but is a bit fast even on DCC due to the high gears used. I have one that has been converted to 0n16.5 and has the original wheels. I used an YCS T1 as it is 1amp with max 1.5, this loco on stall can get upto 2.5amps so you need to drive it carefully on DCC and try to avoid any overloading as it does not seem to slip easily, due I think to the spline like wheels!

regards

mike g
 

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Wow - seeing one of these takes me back to my Triang layout


The Dock Shunter was easily the best running locomotive I had and ended up being deployed on Class 8 passenger duties... I remember it had great speed and could pull more coaches than my 'Princess Elizabeth' .

Happy days


Norm
 
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