Triang Railways

QUOTE (Brian Considine @ 5 Feb 2013, 18:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Dave & welcome to MRF.

In your controller there will be a resistance mat & some brass/phospher bronze "wipers" - it may be possible to adjust the wipers but the mats also wear out.

Best option would, as Gavin says try ebay.

Don't forget to post some pictures.

The Tri-ang controllers used to be screwed together. Before H&S...



As Brian says, the parts do wear out, and they are no longer made new...

I did have two Tri-ang controllers, and took them both to bits, and made a good one from the best bits (NOT for the faint hearted, and I made sure to test for any escaping currents with a meter.)

One had been overheated so much that the encapsulating resin had boiled off and collected on the base plate!

The H & M Duette is pretty "bomb proof".

I see that you are using "Standard" track. Well done you. This is not a common decision these days, as the supply of useable track is getting smaller.

I trust that you are aware that the earlier Cellulose Acetate track bases can distort, so losing the true gauge and alignment of the rails?

The post 1956 Standard track was made from Polystyrene Plastic, and is a far better bet.

It is also possible to replace the rails in Standard track with those from Series 3 track (the legths are the same), or even use the longer Super 4 straight rails on multiple Standard track bases, to cut down on rail joints. Super 4 curves are a different radius, but the rails can be modified to fit to Standard bases.

Are you aware of the Tri-ang Society, and the Train Collectors Society?

A "Standard Track" Layout Idea?

I have just laid the outer loop 8x4ft plain track, continuous, no points, and connected power.

I have cleaned to rails with a very fine rubbing block, and that all the track joints are connected correctly.

The problem is that the test loco (Hornby) is running very erratically. On some parts of the track it goes like the clappers, and on other parts it struggles to keep going, and sometimes stops, and with a gentle nudge it's off again.

I have to keep it to a fairly high speed, to keep it going on a complete loop.

It won't run round at low speed.

Any idea where I should look for the problem. Could it be the track joints not clean enough, or a little rusty making resistance to the power flow on certain parts of the loop?

Any help appreciated.

QUOTE (sarah @ 13 Feb 2013, 19:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The Tri-ang controllers used to be screwed together. Before H&S...

As Brian says, the parts do wear out, and they are no longer made new...

I did have two Tri-ang controllers, and took them both to bits, and made a good one from the best bits (NOT for the faint hearted, and I made sure to test for any escaping currents with a meter.)

One had been overheated so much that the encapsulating resin had boiled off and collected on the base plate!

The H & M Duette is pretty "bomb proof".

I see that you are using "Standard" track. Well done you. This is not a common decision these days, as the supply of useable track is getting smaller.

I trust that you are aware that the earlier Cellulose Acetate track bases can distort, so losing the true gauge and alignment of the rails?

The post 1956 Standard track was made from Polystyrene Plastic, and is a far better bet.

It is also possible to replace the rails in Standard track with those from Series 3 track (the legths are the same), or even use the longer Super 4 straight rails on multiple Standard track bases, to cut down on rail joints. Super 4 curves are a different radius, but the rails can be modified to fit to Standard bases.

Are you aware of the Tri-ang Society, and the Train Collectors Society?

A "Standard Track" Layout Idea?

Thanks for the info.

We found the fault on the P5 controller. The speed control windings had broken, and for some reason would not take solder to rejoin.

My Triang project seems to be going one step forwards, and two steps backwards at this present moment.

My Princess Victoria loco, which was running perfectly has now ceased to function.

When removing it from the track for inspection, one of the electrical brushes fell out, which must have been the cause of it's will to function.

Please can anybody give me a step by step guide on how to replace the brush, and a reason why it should have fallen out in the first place?

Below is my planned layout to date. Loads more to add.

Many thanks.



Two thirds of the base construction using bullet dowels, and bolts to keep it together, with 9mm ply on top.

There are 3 steel fold away trestles underneath.





From now on I will be using this topic site to report on my project progress, and and help I may need when problems arise.

*** That is becasue the wire is nickel-chromium (NiChrome) wire. It needs a different flux and a solder with lead/tin/silver in it.

An old toaster element can be handy to replace it. If you unwind it totally and measure the length, you could also buy NiChrome wire from an electronics supply house and re-wind it.

If exactly the same diameter isn't available (within 0.1mm) rejoin the two broken bits temporarily by twisting together tightly them measure the overall resistance.

Buy the nearest diameter and measure the resistance along its length until you reach the same figure or slightly more, then cut to THAT length and use it to re-wind the mat. (if its thinner the replacement will need to be be shorter, if fatter it will need to be longer)

regards

Richard

QUOTE (Dave Saunby @ 18 Feb 2013, 04:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the info.

We found the fault on the P5 controller. The speed control windings had broken, and for some reason would not take solder to rejoin.

*** This is how I would do it if I didn't use spray glue, which might be a little unforgiving to work with on such a big sheet especially if there is only one pair of hands to do it with.

Take a portion of the PVA glue and thin it with Windex (window cleaner), then roll it onto the board surface as a primer. Let it get mostly dry.

With the rest, add 1 part warm water and 1 part Methylated spirits to several parts glue (or 2 parts Windex to 2 parts glue) and roll it onto the back of the sheet.

Mist the area you will place it with Windex to re-damp it and make it tacky again. Wait a couple of minutes then lay the sheet...

8x4 is a big sheet to lay. Start at the middle and ease it out in both directions, rubbing down with a clean dry tea towel of similar. if it takes a while re-damp the un-laid bit with Windex to keep it tacky.

Regards

Richard

Thanks for the advice Richard.

I gave the baseboard 2 watered down coats of PVA, and then 1 full strength.

Because as you say an 8'x4' sheet would be difficult to cover, so rather than risk starting from the middle and working outwards, I lined the roll up at the end with 2" overhang, and slowly unrolled it, smoothing it out as I went, adding more PVA where needed.

It went on perfectly, looks just like a snooker table!!

I just hope that when I check it in the morning, that it has stuck good.

Next tricky job will be to cut through the mat in 2 places where the 3 section baseboard is joined.

I have to be very careful here, making sure the knife blade follows the join, so I get a perfect straight edge. This will take a little bit of skill with a straight edge and possibly another pair of hands.

I can't afford to mess up here.

Prototype Layout

Anyone for a game of snooker??

Moorings.....D.S.

Nice, takes me back a bit............

Is your track,nailed down yet ? if not, your long straights,can be helped, by purchasing a metre length steel rule for £1 @ Poundland.
(Rumours of a Sale,@ Easter), also a straight track-setter,for use between the rails, does help with set track.

QUOTE It went on perfectly, looks just like a snooker table!!.. ...LF&T's, layout, doubles as a table tennis...........table............

QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 27 Mar 2013, 02:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>*** Did you use the alcohol in the mix as I recommended?

It aids flow and penetration of the glue.. which is why I suggested it. Even a misting with windex (which contains alcohol) will make a big difference.

A big sheet loke that also needs rolling into place - The rolling is important even if it looks flat as its laid... its not enough just to lay it...

Richard

Hi Richard,

No, I had already laid the mat by the time I read your advice.

I did water down the first coat to cover the base so it soaked in to the ply as it said on the bottle, and then a second full strength, before rolling our the mat slowly, pushing out any air bubbles and pressing down as I went.

I have a problem getting Windex where I live.

Is there another product made in the UK found on supermarket/shop shelves, that contains alcohol I could use?

I have several window cleaners in the house, but they don't list what is in it on the label.

QUOTE (David Todd @ 27 Mar 2013, 06:33) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Moorings.....D.S.

Nice, takes me back a bit............

Is your track,nailed down yet ? if not, your long straights,can be helped, by purchasing a metre length steel rule for £1 @ Poundland.
(Rumours of a Sale,@ Easter), also a straight track-setter,for use between the rails, does help with set track.

.. ...LF&T's, layout, doubles as a table tennis...........table............

Hi David,
I have a 4ft long straight edge to line up the track before screwing down with stainless steel screws through the holes in the track.

Once the layout is screwed down, I have to cut through the track at the 2 baseboard joins with a junior hacksaw.

This will take a little bit of skill on my part to line the cut up with the join. My eye sight is not what it used to be.

Thanks for your interest.