Superb and as stated...v nostalgic.
Triang Railways
Hi Guys,
I am new to model railways, and in my 63rd year, the last being a Triang Standard Grey Track Set in the mid 1950's.
I am at present building up a Triang layout from that era of the Standard Track, and have more than enough track, trains, and accessories to build an 8x4 layout, of which the base has been already built, and splits into 3 sections for easy transportation.
I have an Hammant and Morgan Duel controller, but to keep as much of the layout as original as possible. I also have a Triang P5 Power Controller which has fault and would like some help in rectifying the fault if possible.
I have power from the 12v DC Uncontrolled output, and the 15v AC Output.
Sadly, there is no power from the 12v DC Controlled Output, which I need to run the trains.
When putting a meter on the Output connectors it does have a reading of power just in one place just after the neutral position when I turn the speed control to forward. Turn the controller a bit more and the power is gone. In reverse there is no power at all showing on the meter.
Years ago I would have known somebody whom I could have taken it to, and with their knowledge would have worked out of how the Power Controller works, and most probably could have fixed it.
Can any body help, in advising what the fault may be, and is it possible to fix it, and where.
I live in Cornwall.
Thanks.
I am new to model railways, and in my 63rd year, the last being a Triang Standard Grey Track Set in the mid 1950's.
I am at present building up a Triang layout from that era of the Standard Track, and have more than enough track, trains, and accessories to build an 8x4 layout, of which the base has been already built, and splits into 3 sections for easy transportation.
I have an Hammant and Morgan Duel controller, but to keep as much of the layout as original as possible. I also have a Triang P5 Power Controller which has fault and would like some help in rectifying the fault if possible.
I have power from the 12v DC Uncontrolled output, and the 15v AC Output.
Sadly, there is no power from the 12v DC Controlled Output, which I need to run the trains.
When putting a meter on the Output connectors it does have a reading of power just in one place just after the neutral position when I turn the speed control to forward. Turn the controller a bit more and the power is gone. In reverse there is no power at all showing on the meter.
Years ago I would have known somebody whom I could have taken it to, and with their knowledge would have worked out of how the Power Controller works, and most probably could have fixed it.
Can any body help, in advising what the fault may be, and is it possible to fix it, and where.
I live in Cornwall.
Thanks.
1 - 4 of 137 Posts
QUOTE (Dave Saunby @ 1 Dec 2013, 00:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am not in any of them,
![]()
Are you sure - this could be you in the blue jumper a few years ago
)
Are you sure - this could be you in the blue jumper a few years ago
)
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 22 Feb 2014, 14:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>*** Tom, being a very old mains power controller, to be up front about it - and I do not want to offend but:
(1) It is a dangerous device to fiddle with in that it is metal cased and an error in working with it may well result in some risk of electrocution.
(2) It is such a simple device internally that to be honest, if you need a diagram to fix it you should probably NOT be the one fixing it!
(3) It is bad enough that it is already so far below current safety requirements that it could never be officially "sold" today - but think - if you are not qualified, but work on it and it later catches fire, guess what the insurance company will say.
I am not one to harp on about safety, but some things just aren't worth it.
Richard
+1 totally what Richard said - chuck it and stay safe - it just isn't worth it
(1) It is a dangerous device to fiddle with in that it is metal cased and an error in working with it may well result in some risk of electrocution.
(2) It is such a simple device internally that to be honest, if you need a diagram to fix it you should probably NOT be the one fixing it!
(3) It is bad enough that it is already so far below current safety requirements that it could never be officially "sold" today - but think - if you are not qualified, but work on it and it later catches fire, guess what the insurance company will say.
I am not one to harp on about safety, but some things just aren't worth it.
Richard
+1 totally what Richard said - chuck it and stay safe - it just isn't worth it
1 - 4 of 137 Posts
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