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· Just another modeller
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*** Any water-clear (or slightly blue tinted) window cleaner will largely be alcohol and water with a tiny bit of non foaming detergent - brand isn't important.

regards

Richard
 

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QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 28 Mar 2013, 02:33) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>*** Any water-clear (or slightly blue tinted) window cleaner will largely be alcohol and water with a tiny bit of non foaming detergent - brand isn't important.

regards

Richard

Hi Richard,
You have certainly set me a task of finding a window cleaner to conform with your recommendations.

All I can find in the shops and supermarkets are products stating the ingredients of containing Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone. Perfume. Less than 5%Surfactants. Most have added vinegar.

I have purchased Asda's brand "Window & Glass Cleaner", with added vinegar, which is a greeny/blue colour, and contains the above ingredients.

http://groceries.asda.com/asda-estore/cata...amp;startValue=

Would this be suitable, because I do not want to mess up again with the glueing of my base mat to the baseboard.

If not, surely their must be other adhesive products on the market that would do the job.

I did think about a contact adhesive, but having read the instructions it was not recommended to use it on vinyl, and that their was no time to re-set once it comes into contact with the other surface. Once stuck it's stuck.

What about a good quality high strength wall paper paste?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have seen how to make your own alcohol based window cleaners on web sites.

They recommend using a mix of rubbing alcohol, or even surgical spirit, with water.

All these complications, just to stick down a vinyl backed track mat onto a baseboard.

Is my Triang project, more trouble than it's worth???
 

· Just another modeller
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*** No need to over think it.

All it has to do is act like a wetting agent to improve the bond. Simple water+methylated spirits would do fine, but I'd bet most of the window cleaners you looked at would too - the labelling shows the toxic additives (Methylisothiazolinone is a strong preservative / anti fungal that's there in tiny amounts) and I'd bet that alcohol in some forma or another is in there too.

Richard
 

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i enjoyed reading that , Tri-ang , now that takes you back into child hood ,
re- the grass mat , from me a time served decorator , treet it like wallpaper , past the back with a 70 - 30 mix of Solvite ready mix (PVA) and water , let soak for a few min's , what you done wrong was sizing the base board and letting dry - once dry its a thin plastic'y surface and not much to 'key' to , best size up with same mix as used for fixing , then apply both whilst still wet , smoothing out with either a short pile 9" roller , once dry it'll need steaming off .

plas man
 

· Dragon Trainer
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This may sound crazy, but have you thought about double sided sticky tape.

There are some pretty strong versions out there. I think there may be tapes for laying carpets?

A smooth plastic vinyl base would not be best for a PVA bond, as it cannot soak in at all. I used some PVA to stick some grass scatter to a "formica" veneered shelf. It stuck, but is now peeling off. (This could be a way to make a "Home Made" grass sheet!)

UHU would possibly "grab" the vinyl. What does the Grass sheet manufacturer recommend?

I see you have the old turntable. Nice.

Is there anything Tri-ang you still need?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thanks for the advice Sarah on sticking the grass mat to the base.

I have just purchased a Triang Turntable that works. The one in the picture was going to be as a static display only.

Thanks for your offer of any Triang bits. May need an extra early engine shed and possibly some platform sections as some are a little warped.

Only thing I don't have are signals, and everyone knows that you can't run a railway without signals!!!
 

· Dragon Trainer
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Hi Dave.

The early Tri-ang Signals are the "Non Clip Fit" metal ones (Except the Junction and Gantry Signals, which were always plastic, only the metal bases changed to the "clip fit" type in the early sixties.) They were replaced in the early 1960s by the plastic Clip Fit ones. These survived until the late 70s.

So, these plastic post signals may be easier to find...

The platform sections went to Poly in 1956-7 (No Clips) and the Poly clip type came in C1957, with the brown buildings. The Poly doesn't warp, and looks pretty much the same to the eyes.

1956 Red Poly Buildings are the best. (Though the Water Tower and Engine Sheds were always brown....)

The turntable works are quite ingenious. Friction Drive on the edge. I am thinking of modifying one to have more "stops" at a couple of extra exit tracks....
 

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My layout has come to a grinding halt due to problems with my 3 section 8 x 4 baseboard not being completely flat.

I have used a substantial 1.5 x 2.5 inch wood frame with 9mm ply top. The 3 sections are held together with proper dowels and coach bolts.

The first and middle sections line up ok. but the third section slopes away. I may have to take it to a carpenter to sort out, or scrap it all together, having spent a small fortune on it.

See pictures on page one of this thread.

I have surfed the net to no avail for a builder and supplier of baseboards who could supply a 3 section 8x4 baseboard, because I have to transport it the car to exhibitions when completed.

The sections measure 2'9"x 4' . 2'6"x 4'. 2'x9"x 4'.
 

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The laying of the vinyl mat on the 3 sections has now been completed using Unibond PVA, and pressing them face to face with even pressure using concrete blocks and building bricks.

The side edging panels and back board have been made, which I am going to paint in Triang Red and Yellow.

Does anyone know what off the shelf paint, make and colour name I can buy to match the Triang Red and Yellow, the same as the Triang Railways logo below?




The 3 completed sections. The locating dowels on the centre section can be clearly seen.

Sorry if the pics are a little dark, due to the weakness of the flash.
 

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QUOTE (Dave Saunby @ 14 Jun 2013, 18:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I find it very strange that with all the wealth of knowledge of model railways on this forum that I have not had a reply to my above question.

Possibly bacause no one has needed to recreate the advertising colours?

Maybe the easy way would be to take a box to Halfords (or equivalent) and visually match the colours. I'd assume, if they were standard printing inks being used, that it should be pretty easy.

Another alternative would be to contact the Triang Society Link or one of the other sites listed to see if a definitive answer is available.

Hugh
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I managed to get correct colour paint mixed at Homeworld.

Baseboard painted and finished. Ready to be bolted together.

Hope you like it.









Next job is to make an 8ft long back board bolted to the back edge for easy removal, and painted red with the Triang logo.
 
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