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Because the standard track I am using is 60 years old, and the running surface is not quite as smooth as modern rails, what method is recommended for weighting down the front and rear bogie wheels of some of my Triang engines ie (Princess Elizabeth, Princess Victoria, R59 Tank engine, etc) to stop them bouncing around and off the track, mainly on corners and going through points?

Somebody is bound to know the answer to this one.

I did think about Blu tac, but would it stick and be heavy enough???
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Just fitted the control shelf, which is held on by bolts screwed into captive nuts in the underside of the baseboard frame.




I was hoping that with the wealth of knowledge out there, that someone would come up with the solution to my previous post, of how to add extra weight to the front pony/bogie wheels of Triang engines (Princess Elizabeth and Victoria), to help try and stop them bouncing off the 60 year old track at track joints on bends and points.
 

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Alloy wheel stick on weights from your local tyre fitters is always worth a try
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Does anyone know where I can get male bullet connectors that will fit snugly into the sides of the Triang de-coupler standard grey track that supplies the power to the rails.

I have 4 original leads from the controller to the track, that were supplied with train sets, but I need 4 more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Here is the piece of track that I need bullet connectors for.

Everything today seems to be in metric sizes, either too small or too big to fit snugly into the two power holes pictured.

I could try and solder the wires direct into the holes, but the only problem by doing this is that the track is not screwed down, and that the power wires will be coming up through the baseboard, and I don't want to drill oversize holes to allow for the eye connectors on the other end that connect to the controllers to be drawn up through when assembling and dismantling the layout.

I just want the holes bid enough for the track bullet connectors to be drawn up through to keep it as neat as possible.
 

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QUOTE (Dave Saunby @ 22 Sep 2013, 21:48) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Because the standard track I am using is 60 years old, and the running surface is not quite as smooth as modern rails, what method is recommended for weighting down the front and rear bogie wheels of some of my Triang engines ie (Princess Elizabeth, Princess Victoria, R59 Tank engine, etc) to stop them bouncing around and off the track, mainly on corners and going through points?

Somebody is bound to know the answer to this one.

I did think about Blu tac, but would it stick and be heavy enough???
I'm surprised that the front bogie is derailing on your Princess locos. I never had any problems using Series 3 track which has the same geometry as Standard Track, or Super 4, but that was 40 years ago.

In reply to your other question about the bullet connectors, you could use brass rod of the right diameter and solder the leads to that. If you want to simulate the original Triang connectors use the brass rod and put a piece of brass tube over the solder connection to the rod.
 

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Brass rod, drilled down the centre for the wire to be soldered into, sleeved with plastruct tubing or heat shrink.

Alternatively, try Maplins for some connectors.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Because it's not worth chasing round the country trying to find imperial gauge bullet connectors, I have now decided to solder wires direct to the underside of the de-coupler/power track, leaving the female power connectors in the track vacant, and then drilling holes in the baseboard directly below the track so the wiring cannot be seen.

I think I have found the solution to weighting down the front bogie wheels on my engines. Thin Roofing Lead, cut to fit between the wheels, and then stuck on top of the bogie wheels chassis.

If there is not enough clearance between the top of the bogie chassis, and the loco body, I will tap the lead out with a small hammer, until the correct thickness has been achieved.

I have yet to experiment with the lead, to see if it works. If successful I will do the same to all my engines. Watch this space!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Now that the track layout is just about complete, I have roughly positioned the platforms which will be made slightly longer, and just a few of the station buildings to get some idea what it will look like when completed. The engine sheds are in the correct position by the turntable.

As you can see, I have more than enough locos to compliment this layout.
 

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It looks to be taking great shape there Dave. Cracking nostalgia (for me anyways).

Kind regards

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Thanks for your kind comments Paul.

Yes, this project is basically all about nostalgia, creating something that will take myself and other people back nearly 60 years, using approximatley 95% of Triang parts which were available at that time in the catalogue's and in the shops before they changed from the standard grey track to the Series 3 track in 1958.

I still have a little way to go yet, as I have changed my mind about soldering the power wires direct to the track from underneath, but to use welding rods instead. Watch this space and you will see what I mean, if you have not already guessed.

My first exhibition is on Saturday 30th November at the Budock Village Hall, Nr.Falmouth, staged by the Falmouth Society of Railway Modellers of which I am a member.

http://fsrm.weebly.com/
All I want people to say when they walk through the door and see my layout. "I had one of those when I was a kid". That would make me happy, and well worth the effort over the past 11 months, to create something that is very rarely seen at exhibitions in Cornwall, when the majority of layouts are Hornby and other model railway manufactuers.
 

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After nearly 12 months of building, have now just about finished, apart from a few minor adjustments, and the placing of the signals, water cranes, and a few more buildings.

There will be a curtain around the outside edge to cover up the baseboard trestles, and a backboard with the Triang Railways logo printed on it. I will post a picture when the backboard is finished and in place.

Special thanks to Elaine of www. elaines-trains.co.uk who has helped me locate, and supply those elusive, and missing parts to complete my layout, at very reasonable prices, and fast delivery.

I am now looking forward to my first exhibition on 30th November, and fingers crossed I will be hoping that it will be well received by fellow model railway enthusiasts, and the general public.









 
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