Triang Railways

41857 Views 136 Replies 25 Participants Last post by Fred Nitschke, Feb 28, 2021

Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · Feb 5, 2013 (Edited by Moderator)

Hi Guys,
I am new to model railways, and in my 63rd year, the last being a Triang Standard Grey Track Set in the mid 1950's.

I am at present building up a Triang layout from that era of the Standard Track, and have more than enough track, trains, and accessories to build an 8x4 layout, of which the base has been already built, and splits into 3 sections for easy transportation.

I have an Hammant and Morgan Duel controller, but to keep as much of the layout as original as possible. I also have a Triang P5 Power Controller which has fault and would like some help in rectifying the fault if possible.

I have power from the 12v DC Uncontrolled output, and the 15v AC Output.

Sadly, there is no power from the 12v DC Controlled Output, which I need to run the trains.

When putting a meter on the Output connectors it does have a reading of power just in one place just after the neutral position when I turn the speed control to forward. Turn the controller a bit more and the power is gone. In reverse there is no power at all showing on the meter.

Years ago I would have known somebody whom I could have taken it to, and with their knowledge would have worked out of how the Power Controller works, and most probably could have fixed it.

Can any body help, in advising what the fault may be, and is it possible to fix it, and where.

I live in Cornwall.

Thanks.

121 - 137 of 137 Posts

Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · #121 · Dec 1, 2013 (Edited by Moderator)

Other exhibits at exhibition

The club layout "Titfield". Based on the 1953 classic Ealing film "The Titfield Thunderbolt".
As you can see, the "Titfield Thunderbolt" seems to be running late or gone missing!!!

The Clubs N Gauge on going layout "Kimberley Halt".

Club member David Curtis with his "Curringdon" layout.

Club member Nigel Tregoning with his "Elcho" layout.

Other layouts by invited guests.

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Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · #122 · Dec 5, 2013

On the day of the exhibition I was given as a gift by a very kind neighbour who came to the exhibition a Triang RS34 Train Set.

We decided to see if the engine would run on my layout on the day after at least 25 years in the box.

It ran perfectly.

Will now have to try and fit it in with what I have already got!!!!

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Grifter_Guru

· #123 · Dec 5, 2013

WOW!! What a nice Gesture! I bet you were well chuffed (or, in this case, well fumed, it being a diesel set and all)

Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · #124 · Dec 5, 2013

Hi Grifter,
Yes, It was a nice gesture of him, bearing in mind this set had spent the last 25 years in the attic.

10001

· #125 · Dec 5, 2013

Hi Dave , I like what you have done / are doing . Very nostalgic keep it up .
Best wishes ,
Tony , CME Goon Valley Railway

Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · #126 · Dec 7, 2013

Thanks Tony.

My next project will be dead easy.

What a child may have had for Christmas during the very early 1950s..

Straight out of the box basic standard oval track layout with original battery controller mounted on a similar type baseboard as my large layout.

reddo

· #127 · Dec 7, 2013

QUOTE (Dave Saunby @ 1 Dec 2013, 00:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am not in any of them,

Are you sure - this could be you in the blue jumper a few years ago

)

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Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · #128 · Dec 7, 2013

Hi Reddo,
Must have been quite a few years ago, most probably as old as the layout, but I never had fair hair!!!

Dave.

Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · #129 · Jan 26, 2014 (Edited by Moderator)

The construction of my new baseboard for a basic "out of the box" layout is now under way.

Plain, simple, cheap and effective.

Acquired 5'x3' table with removable legs from charity shop.

To make it easier to carry, and fitting in car, I had it cut in half by local joinery company.

I then fitted hinges with removable pins, and alloy centre plate to stop the table top flexing when re-assembled.

It takes about 5 minutes to assemble, and 5 minutes to dismantle.

Carpet underlay cut to baseboard shape, instead of using cork.

Underlay positioned on baseboard table top.

Red table cloth, laid on top of yellow double bed sheet, to give the Triang colours.

Next job to lay the standard track in the basic oval shape.

If you are interested, please keep watching this thread as I build up the layout

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reddo

· #130 · Jan 27, 2014

Quite brilliant really

And I like the colour coded cloth...

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Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · #131 · Jan 27, 2014

Thanks Reddo.

I am doing this basic train set layout for my clubs "Demonstration Day" when we invite the public along to see how we do things, and to hopefully get them interested in model railways.

The object of my layout, is to show people that one does not have to build highly complicated layouts to be in a club, but can start with the basic "out of the box" layout, and expand from there if they wish.

tom82

· #132 · Feb 22, 2014

Does anyone know where one can find a wiring diagram for the Triang P5T Power Controller?
Have a similar issue as the original poster, that being no power from the controlled output.

Richard Johnson

· #133 · Feb 22, 2014

*** Tom, being a very old mains power controller, to be up front about it - and I do not want to offend but:

(1) It is a dangerous device to fiddle with in that it is metal cased and an error in working with it may well result in some risk of electrocution.

(2) It is such a simple device internally that to be honest, if you need a diagram to fix it you should probably NOT be the one fixing it!

(3) It is bad enough that it is already so far below current safety requirements that it could never be officially "sold" today - but think - if you are not qualified, but work on it and it later catches fire, guess what the insurance company will say.

I am not one to harp on about safety, but some things just aren't worth it.

Richard

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reddo

· #134 · Feb 22, 2014

QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 22 Feb 2014, 14:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>*** Tom, being a very old mains power controller, to be up front about it - and I do not want to offend but:

(1) It is a dangerous device to fiddle with in that it is metal cased and an error in working with it may well result in some risk of electrocution.

(2) It is such a simple device internally that to be honest, if you need a diagram to fix it you should probably NOT be the one fixing it!

(3) It is bad enough that it is already so far below current safety requirements that it could never be officially "sold" today - but think - if you are not qualified, but work on it and it later catches fire, guess what the insurance company will say.

I am not one to harp on about safety, but some things just aren't worth it.

Richard

+1 totally what Richard said - chuck it and stay safe - it just isn't worth it

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Alan D

· #135 · Feb 23, 2014 (Edited by Moderator)

Great work mate! Just caught up. I also love the nostalgia.

I dont know enough about how dangerous these old controllers can be but if Richard says no, I would err on the side of caution.

Dave Saunby

Discussion Starter · #136 · Feb 23, 2014

Two of my four controllers are original Triang P5,s, and have been tested.

I certainly would not attempt to repair one if it was more than a broken wire which needed re-soldering which was easily accessible. Having said that, I would most probably take it to a qualified electrical engineer to make the repair.

Anything more than that, I would chuck it, or use it as a decommissioned Triang Power Unit for display use only.

Fred Nitschke

· #137 · Feb 28, 2021

I realize this is an old thread but still has some relevance.

I recently purchase a P5A Triang Controller for use on my layout.

On first attempt it appear to work but not particularly well. It then stopped working completely on the 12V DC controlled output . The other two outputs 12v DC uncontrolled and 15V AC tested fine on my Multimeter.

I decided to open up the unit to investigate the rheostat mechanism.

First thing I noticed was that the board that is wrapped with the resistor wire is held on by 3 studs and nuts. One of the nuts was missing. This resulted in poor contact between the copper contact attached to the main control knob.

After obtaining a replacement nut and testing again it worked momentarily then ceased to work.

Further investigation revealed one of the movable contacts had become loose and would rotate independently of the other. Not how its meant to work I concluded.

I attempted to squeeze the peened section at the base a little more to put enough pressure on the moving contact piece. Not wanting to press too hard and cause damage I then resorted to some liquid super glue in the region of the moving contact and the adjacent insulators. That work and so now the two contacts are properly aligned and work in unison as they should . Testing on my layout was successful with both forward and reverse function working as they are intended.

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