Tumbledown Wharf - The daily Build
41 - 60 of 112 Posts
Joined
·
684 Posts
Thankyou frame69!!!
I really hope posting all my work up as i build this layout will really help some people out and maybe even give people some inspiration for there own layouts.
I just think its good to share how you do things so everyone can have a go!!
I will answer any questions people might have .....................
The first answer is .........................
The plaster i use is Javis casting plaster..... it sets off fast, you have about 5 mins to pour it, then leave it for about 3/4 hour before you start carving. Also remeber as you poor it to push it all round the mould to allow it to fill al the square edges etc...
Nikki
I really hope posting all my work up as i build this layout will really help some people out and maybe even give people some inspiration for there own layouts.
I just think its good to share how you do things so everyone can have a go!!
I will answer any questions people might have .....................
The first answer is .........................
The plaster i use is Javis casting plaster..... it sets off fast, you have about 5 mins to pour it, then leave it for about 3/4 hour before you start carving. Also remeber as you poor it to push it all round the mould to allow it to fill al the square edges etc...
Nikki
Joined
·
284 Posts
Hi
Really great stuff Nikki, but damm you, you are making me want to make a small NG layout again.
I really like your process for buildings, the front with the broken off rendering and cracks showing the brickwork is simple stunning.
Good luck with selling your casts, you deserve to do well with them.
Cheers
Michael
Really great stuff Nikki, but damm you, you are making me want to make a small NG layout again.
I really like your process for buildings, the front with the broken off rendering and cracks showing the brickwork is simple stunning.
Good luck with selling your casts, you deserve to do well with them.
Cheers
Michael
Joined
·
4,843 Posts
Hi Nikki.
Absolutely superb modelling with very clear step-by-step instructions and pictures.
I have been doing a bit of plaster moulding for my viaduct and have found that by holding my small re-chargeable sander next to the moulds it acts as a vibrating table and gets the plaster into every nook and cranny. Also any air bubbles rise to the surface.
Absolutely superb modelling with very clear step-by-step instructions and pictures.
I have been doing a bit of plaster moulding for my viaduct and have found that by holding my small re-chargeable sander next to the moulds it acts as a vibrating table and gets the plaster into every nook and cranny. Also any air bubbles rise to the surface.
Joined
·
684 Posts
Todays work......................................
The making of the doors and windows tonight.
I make a start by placing a sheet of thick card with a slip of paper in the back of the window / door and drawing the exact shape onto the paper. I then copy this onto a peice of thin plastic sheet. Using different thicknesses of plastikard and copious amounts of plastic glue ( revel in this case ) i start to build the different layers of the door or window up onto the plastic base sheet. I have used black and white here to try and give you some idea of how it is done.
![]()
![]()
I then add uprights around the outside of the box of a thin plastikard. This allows the window or door to fit extremly snuggly into the wall. It also adds the window / door surrounds as one peice.
![]()
![]()
I then cut out the spaces with a brand new scapel blade very carefully.
![]()
Then i clean them up with a knife and a light file. ( best to leave for a hour before doing this as sometimes the plastic can be rubbery )
A basic door....... Using the same method.......
![]()
I use nearly the same method for making a larger door as well, this one is to be a slightly curved top wooden door. It is to be fitted into the top section of wall. The differences with this door is ....a. It is to be open and b. it is a wooden door. I use plastic here to make the frame following the same method as above. Then i make the door using strip wood and rough sand papers to add wood grain.
To start off i made a basic three thickness frame this then was added to another layer of plastikard to make a "plugin frame".
![]()
I detailed this with bolt holes in the corners and gave it wood grain with a very coarse grit paper.
![]()
I then made the doors from thin strips of obeche and glued them into the frame so the doors sat open ( NB - when making shed style doors remember to add the z shaped bracing on the back.............)
![]()
![]()
Then all windows are fitted to the holes they will eventually be fitted in. The holes will be to small but by carefully skimming them round you can create a perfect fit. This is why i do it this way - it means hardly any glue and a very neat and relaistic finish. I dont glue the windows and doors in untill I have painted and finished the outside so the window frames dont get covered in paint. I do however add them before i start weathering the building.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Doors and windows fitted........
![]()
Nikki
The making of the doors and windows tonight.
I make a start by placing a sheet of thick card with a slip of paper in the back of the window / door and drawing the exact shape onto the paper. I then copy this onto a peice of thin plastic sheet. Using different thicknesses of plastikard and copious amounts of plastic glue ( revel in this case ) i start to build the different layers of the door or window up onto the plastic base sheet. I have used black and white here to try and give you some idea of how it is done.
I then add uprights around the outside of the box of a thin plastikard. This allows the window or door to fit extremly snuggly into the wall. It also adds the window / door surrounds as one peice.
I then cut out the spaces with a brand new scapel blade very carefully.
Then i clean them up with a knife and a light file. ( best to leave for a hour before doing this as sometimes the plastic can be rubbery )
A basic door....... Using the same method.......
I use nearly the same method for making a larger door as well, this one is to be a slightly curved top wooden door. It is to be fitted into the top section of wall. The differences with this door is ....a. It is to be open and b. it is a wooden door. I use plastic here to make the frame following the same method as above. Then i make the door using strip wood and rough sand papers to add wood grain.
To start off i made a basic three thickness frame this then was added to another layer of plastikard to make a "plugin frame".
I detailed this with bolt holes in the corners and gave it wood grain with a very coarse grit paper.
I then made the doors from thin strips of obeche and glued them into the frame so the doors sat open ( NB - when making shed style doors remember to add the z shaped bracing on the back.............)
Then all windows are fitted to the holes they will eventually be fitted in. The holes will be to small but by carefully skimming them round you can create a perfect fit. This is why i do it this way - it means hardly any glue and a very neat and relaistic finish. I dont glue the windows and doors in untill I have painted and finished the outside so the window frames dont get covered in paint. I do however add them before i start weathering the building.
Doors and windows fitted........
Nikki
Joined
·
684 Posts
QUOTE (Doug @ 10 Mar 2009, 08:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Nice work. I'd like to try some of those techniques.
Are the window frames stuck to a layer of clear plastic, or does is white glue used to make the window panes?
Hiya doug,
The windows are at the moment - without glass, i just cut a square to fit the back of the frame and glue it in last after the windows are painted and finished with a little touch of plastic cement.
Hope this helps
Nikki
Are the window frames stuck to a layer of clear plastic, or does is white glue used to make the window panes?
Hiya doug,
The windows are at the moment - without glass, i just cut a square to fit the back of the frame and glue it in last after the windows are painted and finished with a little touch of plastic cement.
Hope this helps
Nikki
Joined
·
684 Posts
Hiya,
Building two is underway now.....
I have built it using the same method as earlier, the only difference now being this building must have a removable roof - for changing light bulbs etc..... The first building will lift out from the layout to change bulbs instead...
This building is stone based and plaster topped. I have tried to simulate a lath and plaster styled wall that has not been looked after and the plaster is starting to fall off.
Some of the detail carving on the building.
![]()
![]()
![]()
This building also had to have a detachable roof . so i made a section that would slip inside the external roof sections.
![]()
![]()
The building is not detailed on the side for one reason. This is because it is to mould into the model case and will be painted black to match the outside of the case.
![]()
And the building gets placed into situ to check that it fits exactly......
![]()
Now just got to make the doors and windows...........
Nikki
Building two is underway now.....
I have built it using the same method as earlier, the only difference now being this building must have a removable roof - for changing light bulbs etc..... The first building will lift out from the layout to change bulbs instead...
This building is stone based and plaster topped. I have tried to simulate a lath and plaster styled wall that has not been looked after and the plaster is starting to fall off.
Some of the detail carving on the building.
This building also had to have a detachable roof . so i made a section that would slip inside the external roof sections.
The building is not detailed on the side for one reason. This is because it is to mould into the model case and will be painted black to match the outside of the case.
And the building gets placed into situ to check that it fits exactly......
Now just got to make the doors and windows...........
Nikki
Joined
·
684 Posts
Hiya,
Well today ive managed to add the windows and doors to building two. Ive made them the same way that i have made the others.
![]()
As my plastikard from Slaters turned up today i made the rooves....... One is slate and one is corrugated iron. To start with i slightly rough up the roof former ( black plastic sheet glued to the top of the building already) with a 120 grit sandpaper. This is to allow the plastic cement to get a solid fix to the surface of the black plastic. Then i cut the slaters 7mm 0.015mm embossed roof slates into strips as are imprinted on the sheet.
![]()
Then i cut the individual slates and start to shape them into various lengths and forms.
![]()
Then i glue these strips overlapping each other onto the roof using Slaters Mek-Pak.
![]()
![]()
After both sides were done i trimmed the edges to straighten the edges up. Then i added a wooden facia board and ridge tiles
which i found an old pack of in my bits box.
![]()
As the roof still looked slightly bleak at this point i also added a roof finial made from an OO gauge langley ornate gate post.
![]()
The OO Gauge gate post finial......
![]()
As for the smaller building i cut Slaters 7mm corrugated plastic roofing sheet into 5.6mm x 2.8mm ( 4ft x 8ft ) sections and then attched these too the roof layer. As i added them i also librally applied plastic glue to the toop of the panel and rubbed it down with my finger. The weathers the plastic and makes it look a lot more like old iron sheet in texture......
![]()
I then added a plastic strip folded in half as the ridge. When doing this i have found it is essential on metal rooves to soak the ridge in glue so it will mold to the top of the roof and look old and battered.
![]()
I then added a wooden facia and downward pointing finial......
![]()
This afternoon i also laid the tunnel track and plastered the trackbed around it ready for groundcover and plants to be placed.
Overall i am somewhat happy with the layout so far in its unpainted state.........
![]()
![]()
![]()
Nikki
Well today ive managed to add the windows and doors to building two. Ive made them the same way that i have made the others.
As my plastikard from Slaters turned up today i made the rooves....... One is slate and one is corrugated iron. To start with i slightly rough up the roof former ( black plastic sheet glued to the top of the building already) with a 120 grit sandpaper. This is to allow the plastic cement to get a solid fix to the surface of the black plastic. Then i cut the slaters 7mm 0.015mm embossed roof slates into strips as are imprinted on the sheet.
Then i cut the individual slates and start to shape them into various lengths and forms.
Then i glue these strips overlapping each other onto the roof using Slaters Mek-Pak.
After both sides were done i trimmed the edges to straighten the edges up. Then i added a wooden facia board and ridge tiles
which i found an old pack of in my bits box.
As the roof still looked slightly bleak at this point i also added a roof finial made from an OO gauge langley ornate gate post.
The OO Gauge gate post finial......
As for the smaller building i cut Slaters 7mm corrugated plastic roofing sheet into 5.6mm x 2.8mm ( 4ft x 8ft ) sections and then attched these too the roof layer. As i added them i also librally applied plastic glue to the toop of the panel and rubbed it down with my finger. The weathers the plastic and makes it look a lot more like old iron sheet in texture......
I then added a plastic strip folded in half as the ridge. When doing this i have found it is essential on metal rooves to soak the ridge in glue so it will mold to the top of the roof and look old and battered.
I then added a wooden facia and downward pointing finial......
This afternoon i also laid the tunnel track and plastered the trackbed around it ready for groundcover and plants to be placed.
Overall i am somewhat happy with the layout so far in its unpainted state.........
Nikki
Joined
·
684 Posts
Hiya,
Today i have started the third building, as i have not posted its drawings yet here they are.......
![]()
This building is a complete one and not a half relief. it has an angled corner which is to allow it to connect to the wall leading up to the tunnel. the bottom section is stone with plaster old and cracked... and the top is wooden with a corrugated roof.
As to the buildings actual use, well i have not really thought about that as yet although it will probably just be someones office. Might put an old sign on the front of it.
I started by drawing out the shapes and bordering them with balsa as i have done before, then carving the shapes into them. I have already mounted them onto there back foam board with evostick PVA.
Front panel - stone base with plaster walls cracked and broken.
![]()
shorter side
![]()
Longer side
![]()
angled section
![]()
Back - no wood at all! and as it fits against the back panel i did not see much point in carving the stone work out.....
![]()
Nikki
Today i have started the third building, as i have not posted its drawings yet here they are.......
This building is a complete one and not a half relief. it has an angled corner which is to allow it to connect to the wall leading up to the tunnel. the bottom section is stone with plaster old and cracked... and the top is wooden with a corrugated roof.
As to the buildings actual use, well i have not really thought about that as yet although it will probably just be someones office. Might put an old sign on the front of it.
I started by drawing out the shapes and bordering them with balsa as i have done before, then carving the shapes into them. I have already mounted them onto there back foam board with evostick PVA.
Front panel - stone base with plaster walls cracked and broken.
shorter side
Longer side
angled section
Back - no wood at all! and as it fits against the back panel i did not see much point in carving the stone work out.....
Nikki
Joined
·
684 Posts
I also started to make the small wooden platform that sits just outside the tunnel. Its so small and low i wouldnt really call it a platform.
I started by making a paper template of the section i wanted to make. I then trimmed off 2mm all round the paper form to allow for the siding which is made from 2mm thick wood. I then cut sections of wood slightly over the size needed and stuck them to a peice of upturned brown tape ( just to hold them whilst i place them all.)
![]()
I then glued the bracing on under the platform section turned the whole thing over and with the template drew the shape onto the upturned platform and cut it out with a razor saw. I then did the same with the top section.
![]()
I then glued the two sections together and added the sidings all around it.
![]()
I then cut the gaps to place the steps into - the platform has three sets of steps. One leads into the tunnel one down to the door and one onto the ground by the buildings. It will also have a stubby street lamp on the end of it and a small and battered handrail
And here it is placed in position , not fixed yet as it hasnt been painted or weathered yet.
![]()
Nikki
I started by making a paper template of the section i wanted to make. I then trimmed off 2mm all round the paper form to allow for the siding which is made from 2mm thick wood. I then cut sections of wood slightly over the size needed and stuck them to a peice of upturned brown tape ( just to hold them whilst i place them all.)
I then glued the bracing on under the platform section turned the whole thing over and with the template drew the shape onto the upturned platform and cut it out with a razor saw. I then did the same with the top section.
I then glued the two sections together and added the sidings all around it.
I then cut the gaps to place the steps into - the platform has three sets of steps. One leads into the tunnel one down to the door and one onto the ground by the buildings. It will also have a stubby street lamp on the end of it and a small and battered handrail
And here it is placed in position , not fixed yet as it hasnt been painted or weathered yet.
Nikki
Joined
·
8,102 Posts
Very nice Nikki.
![]()
Joined
·
684 Posts
Hiya,
Todays work was to continue to make building three. As the walls had dried off i started to trim them to fit and test fit them. Here they re being held up by a solder reel and some paint pots.
![]()
After i was sure that the building fitted together okay i started to fix the corners. This is always difficult with buildings made from plaster due to the weight of the sections. When i had affixed all the sections using large blocks of balsa, copious amounts of super glue and evostick wood adesive i got my hairdryer and blew hot air on it for about 10 minutes. This helped to set the glue off fast and allow it to be worked on.
![]()
Then i mixed up a small amount of filler and filled all the corner gaps.
![]()
![]()
When this had dried i started to recarve the corners and finish them off before running the hairdryer over them quickly to finish this off.
![]()
![]()
I then cut a centre floor and fixed it in place.
![]()
I then started to add the walls to the upper section. As you can see i was being helped by Mr Bobbles t this point.........
![]()
![]()
![]()
I then checked to make sure it all fitted into its allocated space. I am always very careful to check the fitting as i go along, as this way you can gaurentee the fit will be perfect.
I then left the building to dry out for an hour before starting to plank the top section. For this i will be using lime wood.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Once the three sides that are planked were finished i trimmed the overhang and cut out the windows and door on the top section.
![]()
Once the building is nearly ready to be placed in position and fixed the wall gaps will be filled and sealed.
![]()
here it is in position with the other ones....
![]()
Nikki
Todays work was to continue to make building three. As the walls had dried off i started to trim them to fit and test fit them. Here they re being held up by a solder reel and some paint pots.
After i was sure that the building fitted together okay i started to fix the corners. This is always difficult with buildings made from plaster due to the weight of the sections. When i had affixed all the sections using large blocks of balsa, copious amounts of super glue and evostick wood adesive i got my hairdryer and blew hot air on it for about 10 minutes. This helped to set the glue off fast and allow it to be worked on.
Then i mixed up a small amount of filler and filled all the corner gaps.
When this had dried i started to recarve the corners and finish them off before running the hairdryer over them quickly to finish this off.
I then cut a centre floor and fixed it in place.
I then started to add the walls to the upper section. As you can see i was being helped by Mr Bobbles t this point.........
I then checked to make sure it all fitted into its allocated space. I am always very careful to check the fitting as i go along, as this way you can gaurentee the fit will be perfect.
I then left the building to dry out for an hour before starting to plank the top section. For this i will be using lime wood.
Once the three sides that are planked were finished i trimmed the overhang and cut out the windows and door on the top section.
Once the building is nearly ready to be placed in position and fixed the wall gaps will be filled and sealed.
here it is in position with the other ones....
Nikki
Joined
·
684 Posts
Lighting issues,
After a lot of hunting around with a little ruler ....... I have found that with minor alteration, these kits can be used to make realistically scled O gauge lights. They are the Veissman park light kits No 6720.
![]()
There are a few parts in the kit consisting of the Lamp, Lamp interior, Lamp top, bulb on cable and the post. Obviously the post is far to short for O gauge but the lamp top is perfect for a mid sized light. I think there are many different ways this kit can be utilised and so I will be drawing all my ideas up and posting them here in the next few days.
![]()
hope this will help some other people out there too !!!!
Nikki
After a lot of hunting around with a little ruler ....... I have found that with minor alteration, these kits can be used to make realistically scled O gauge lights. They are the Veissman park light kits No 6720.
There are a few parts in the kit consisting of the Lamp, Lamp interior, Lamp top, bulb on cable and the post. Obviously the post is far to short for O gauge but the lamp top is perfect for a mid sized light. I think there are many different ways this kit can be utilised and so I will be drawing all my ideas up and posting them here in the next few days.
hope this will help some other people out there too !!!!
Nikki
41 - 60 of 112 Posts
