Model Railway Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dear All,

What is the best way to build a tunnel, I have the double tunnel entrance, the card for the inside, the correct glue for it etc and I have cut out a similiar frame as the tunnel itself for the other end of the tunnel, however it just does not look right, any ideas, clues etc

Regards

Anthony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,464 Posts
QUOTE (Anthony James @ 4 Nov 2008, 15:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Dear All,

What is the best way to build a tunnel, I have the double tunnel entrance, the card for the inside, the correct glue for it etc and I have cut out a similiar frame as the tunnel itself for the other end of the tunnel, however it just does not look right, any ideas, clues etc

Regards

Anthony

How about like this: http://www.mrol.com.au/tunnelmouth.aspx

Graham Plowman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,147 Posts
QUOTE (Anthony James @ 4 Nov 2008, 06:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Dear All,

What is the best way to build a tunnel, I have the double tunnel entrance, the card for the inside, the correct glue for it etc and I have cut out a similiar frame as the tunnel itself for the other end of the tunnel, however it just does not look right, any ideas, clues etc

Regards

Anthony

Hi Anthony .
To say that no two tunnels looked the same would be untrue but they did vary to a large degree. Any design you prefer will be OK ,unless you are modelling a specific tunnel. I invite you to look at my post on "On my work bench' on this forum .
Click on to "Welcome to the GVR" To see some of mine wich are all imaginary, some similar to a prototype and some not .
Nearly all are made from cardboard and are of simple construction .
Happy modelling , Tony, CME Goon Valley Railway
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Guys

Thanks for the info especially the site you put up Graham . The actual double tunnel mouth I have is Auhagen and IMO looks pretty good, I have the sililiated rock card for the inside of the tunnel, it seems hard to attach it to the piece of ply that I cut out for the other end of the tunnel to make a roof inside the tunnel, I will take a pic this weekend and put it up.

Regards

Anthony
 

·
Bog Snorkeller
Joined
·
987 Posts
QUOTE (Anthony James @ 1 Dec 2008, 04:31) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>So now I need to know how to post a pic as you can see it did not work

On your photobucket site if you bring up the photo you want to post, somewhere down the side there is a list of about four different link types. One of these says something like 'Direct Link - Layout Pages' click on this and, when highlighted, copy the link (Control+C).

Then go to your post and simply paste in the link (Control+V) Its that simple.

CODE




Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,342 Posts
Hi AJ

Does the Auhagen tunnel have the little mounting tabs on the reverse side to allow the card to be held in place?

if so secure the card to those and glue the card to the inside of the arch you created out of wood , Try it with a bit of Plain card first (Cornflakes packet is ideal) you could even use it to support the printed card , if both will fit between the tabs of the Auhagen tunnel

Regards
Zmil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,611 Posts
I would check the clearances between the side of the tunnel mouth and the track. They seem awfully close, but that may just be the camers angle.

John
 

·
Just another modeller
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
*** Hi ANthony

fix a series of horizontal card strips between the Auhagen and ply portal, say 15mm wide and 10mm apart, covering the whole arc... let dry thoroughly. It can fix to the Auhagen facing strip and to the inside face of the arc of the ply.

any good firm card will be fine - it doesn't have to be super strong, but glue it well. Pinning while it dries is fine, it'll not be seen when finished anyway.

Cut the brick paper so its a neat fit, then wrap it firmly face inwards around a can or bottle about the same size as the portal. Use a damp but not wet chux cloth or similar disposable kitchen cloth and wrap around it to hold it to the can/bottle shape. fix with rubber bands etc....

Now, keeping fingers clear, hold over a steaming kettle for a couple of minutes then put aside to dry in its own time.... overnight is good.

The damp cloth will slightly soften the card and the steam will help it relax and take on the new shape.... Slowly drying it will let it fix its shape permanently so it holds it when the cloth is removed and makes it much easier to glue inside the tunnel.

Now cover those card strips with adhesive and fix the brick paper to them. The curve of the card + the card strips will make a stiff and strong combination.

You could use any contact glue, PVA or perhaps even thin double sided tape.

When dry, add a bit of insurance by adding a layer of glued paper over the outside which covers the strips and the card back at the same time, this will stop the brick paper falling away at any time.

once all this is dry, is time to turn that brown card into dark gray/black sooty brick!!

Richard
 

·
In depth idiot
Joined
·
7,666 Posts
QUOTE (john woodall @ 2 Dec 2008, 07:16) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I would check the clearances between the side of the tunnel mouth and the track. They seem awfully close, ..
Technically the opening is too tight if representing standard UK practise; although of course there were sub-standard tunnels constructed, the famous Hastings line tunnels which restricted operation on that line to specially constructed stock with narrower bodies a prime example. Will the longest stock to operate on the layout actually clear the entrance on both tracks? If it does, then that's OK for operational purposes, but let me suggest making the tunnel liner and the plywood former aperture larger, so that any small irregularities in construction or location don't risk fouling the rolling stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the information, it is all pretty straight ahead now, once you know how do to something it all falls into place just getting the initial idea of how to do it makes it easy.

I to noticed that the tracks are very close to the tunnel edge, this happened when the one track was glued down not absolutely in the middle of the cork, also the gap between tracks is in that part for some reason a little to wide, so I will cut a bit off the tunnel mouth and the ply support to make it wider as I don't want to pull up the track and do it again.

Regards

Anthony James
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
QUOTE (34C @ 2 Dec 2008, 09:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Technically the opening is too tight if representing standard UK practise; although of course there were sub-standard tunnels constructed, the famous Hastings line tunnels which restricted operation on that line to specially constructed stock with narrower bodies a prime example. Will the longest stock to operate on the layout actually clear the entrance on both tracks? If it does, then that's OK for operational purposes, but let me suggest making the tunnel liner and the plywood former aperture larger, so that any small irregularities in construction or location don't risk fouling the rolling stock.

It should fit through as my tunnel is vey tight and I can get Freight liner desiels through round a bend
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top