[zachariah]

My layout is all dcc (Hornby) how do I fit a hornby turntable onto the end of one siding? All I want to do is run a loco onto the turntable anf turn it 180 degrees and run it back onto the same track?

 

[Makemineadouble]

The Hornby turntable is very DCC friendly. You can either operate it with a decoder, or with a plug in transformer (cheap) I used one with variable voltage for Christmas lights. The slower you operate it the less the orrible noise it makes !. Its also a good idea to sink it into the base board to avoid those non pro-typical ramps.
I soldered the track wires (different to the motor wires used for rotation) directly to my DCC bus and it works very well no auto reversing. I also soldered the copper current collectors to the track as well.

 

[Doug]

A turntable requires a reversing module to be fitted to prevent shorts. Fit the two terminals on the module to the track on both sides of the turntable and the other two terminals to the rails on the bridge.

Works very well. Use any reversing module: Lenz, Tony's etc. The Hornby Reversing module is not out yet, but it will be just the same.

 

[SPROGman]

QUOTE (Doug @ 6 Feb 2007, 11:28) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>A turntable requires a reversing module to be fitted to prevent shorts. Fit the two terminals on the module to the track on both sides of the turntable and the other two terminals to the rails on the bridge.
Some turntables require reversing units.

Others have a commutator ring and switch polarity automaticaly at a certain point in their rotation.

Andrew Crosland

 

[Makemineadouble]

Doug..............
The Hornby turntable does not require an auto reversing unit. Now if it looked better, and was quieter, didn't have ramps, even you might use it

 

[zachariah]

So if I connect an analogue hornby controller to the motor to turn the table itself, and have the track itself connected to the select dcc unit. Then remove/cover the 2 brass contacts at the end of the entry track that will be ok?

 

[Makemineadouble]

Ok here's a few photo from an old layout. There is no garentee I will find one of the turntables as I would have to unpack six crates of layout kit to find them following a house move. Your turntable is powered in two ways from the cabin there are two brown wires and these are for the motor which rotates the table, these have nothing to do with track power for test connect them to the output of you H&M increasing the voltage increases the speed and that ugly noise.
The hornby turntable in it simplest form is designed to collect current from the track relay it to the turntable bridge and the out going track is powered by the same means. With a few simple modifications you can make it more acceptable here are some photo's to show you how:

sinking the turntable into the baseboard is a good idea and you loose those ramps which makes operation easier
there was a Peco turntable in this position before. I could'nt find a Flieshmann turntable at the time so I used a Hornby
as a test to see if I could improve it.

I removed the unwanted road with a scroll saw this also improves the appearance

the contacts to relay power from the bus to the ingoing track are arrowed the other contacts are not needed.

here you can see the contacts used for powering the turntable

it might not be clear but you should get the idea

the finished result.

As I said if I can find a turntable I'll post some more photo's for you tomorrow.

 

[zachariah]

Thats great thanks. I have just tested my tt using an old hornby controller for the turning and the dcc for move the loco it works great. The turntable costs £50 new although I got mine for £35 off ebay, what a terrible looking piece of *** it is and that motor and sound! How can Hornby ask so much for this? But thanks for all your assistance.