watched the conversations regarding couplings. I use the DG couplings, without soldering. Form the loops and droppers from one piece of 26swg spring steel wire with a pair of needle nose pliers, but bend up so the dropper is in the middle of the coupling and not on one side. Then spring into place...no soldering, just bend the etching and the combined loop and dropper. easy to do and about ten minutes or less percoupling. Works with 00 down to about 30" radius and might even work tichter if the coupling is set further out from the buffers. Hope this helps?
Unknow hook type?
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Yes that willl work in 00 but for N Gauge there just isn't any soft steel wire which is both fine enough and strong enough so you have to solder the supplied hard steel and phosphor bronze wires together.
Trust me. I've tried.
The B&B Couplings are not quite so fine but the loop and dropper are all one etched brass piece. You just have to wind some fine steel wire onto the dropper to provide the magnetic attraction.
Trust me. I've tried.
The B&B Couplings are not quite so fine but the loop and dropper are all one etched brass piece. You just have to wind some fine steel wire onto the dropper to provide the magnetic attraction.
I need an automatic coupling because I hate seeing "the hand of God", the layout will be going to shows and it will be housed in a 5 sided box (with a full roof).
Rob.
Rob.
QUOTE (Brian Considine @ 6 Feb 2009, 19:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If not I know a man who will know.....................
Oh dear - I do have the 1958 observers book of cars........................
Regards
Oh dear - I do have the 1958 observers book of cars........................
Regards
Sorry,I forgot it was for N gauge!
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You did say soft steel wire, but I use spring steel wire...is there none at all suitable? How about the wire suppied as droppers with the OO etches? I think Andrew Hartshorne sells that as sperate packs........I know you've tried that one already! Anyway, hope you find a solution. I found the B7B couplings difficult to assemble as well. One man's meat etc!
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Dinghams are the go I reckon. Second only to three link but at least the Dinghams are automatic with decoupling magnets etc. Caveat is that I haven't used every other type out there but have used, Kadee, tension locks and S&Ws.
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4,843 Posts
QUOTE (Evacuee @ 9 Feb 2009, 02:21) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Sorry,I forgot it was for N gauge!
Hi Evacuee,
I'm not sure if we are talking 00 or N Gauge as Rob's original post doesn't specify. I was just pointing out that while the soft steel wire approach works for 00 it is not viable in N. I tried using fine spring steel but just couldn't produce a consistently uniform, one-piece loop & dropper.
Dinghams are, incidentaly, only available for 7mm and 4mm scales so it has to be either Micro-trains, DGs or B&Bs for N Gauge.
Hi Evacuee,
I'm not sure if we are talking 00 or N Gauge as Rob's original post doesn't specify. I was just pointing out that while the soft steel wire approach works for 00 it is not viable in N. I tried using fine spring steel but just couldn't produce a consistently uniform, one-piece loop & dropper.
Dinghams are, incidentaly, only available for 7mm and 4mm scales so it has to be either Micro-trains, DGs or B&Bs for N Gauge.
The original question was based on using OO loco's.
I've been giving it some thought. What if I were to use a three link type but solder all the links together and then solder a dropper on the middle link with a small metal lump. The last link could be oval and soldered on its side to give a wider contact for the hook.
Stop over an electro magnet, turn the magnet on, the dropper pulls down pushing the links up (just over horizontal) loco backs up a little. Turn off the magnet, the links drop down on to the hook??
It will look just about as good as any coupling can when not connected.
Is there any reason why this won't work?
Rob.
I've been giving it some thought. What if I were to use a three link type but solder all the links together and then solder a dropper on the middle link with a small metal lump. The last link could be oval and soldered on its side to give a wider contact for the hook.
Stop over an electro magnet, turn the magnet on, the dropper pulls down pushing the links up (just over horizontal) loco backs up a little. Turn off the magnet, the links drop down on to the hook??
It will look just about as good as any coupling can when not connected.
Is there any reason why this won't work?
Rob.
QUOTE the tolerances you have to work to might be just too demanding
This is why the last link would be oval.
QUOTE how the autocoupling would work without there being a magnet beneath the coupling
Just like any other coupling being removed by hand?
I'm going to give it a try anyway. I'll let you know how it works.
Any advise on electro magnets and how I can make one with standard railway hook up wire and 16v from the transformer?
Thanks.
Rob.
This is why the last link would be oval.
QUOTE how the autocoupling would work without there being a magnet beneath the coupling
Just like any other coupling being removed by hand?
I'm going to give it a try anyway. I'll let you know how it works.
Any advise on electro magnets and how I can make one with standard railway hook up wire and 16v from the transformer?
Thanks.
Rob.
I was interested to see the various comments about the Jackson coupling. I have almost completed the job of changing all couplings to this type... my stock is all OO and comprises Triang, Hornby, Lima and scratch built with fairly scant attention to coarse or fine scale.
The over riding benefit of this coupling is that it is realistic and entirely unobtrusive when in action and permits buffer to buffer reversing, providing that all track, particularly points, are large radius. My layout is end to end and is designed with the coupling in mind....in practical terms there are no points of a radii less than that of the Peco large radius "streamline" , some home built are a finer radius.
As mentioned, the conversion of my stock is not quite complete. It is without doubt extremely time consuming as each individual item of stock has to be treated as a one off, and there is little scope for mass producing. Having said that the material cost per coupling is a few pennies.
Depending on the make of rolling stock conversion can entail some quite ruthless alteration to the undersides particularly in way of the original coupling fitments but none of this is visible when on track . No alteration in any way is required on buffer beams, buffers etc.
Is anyone else dabbling in this business.
Tiebar
The over riding benefit of this coupling is that it is realistic and entirely unobtrusive when in action and permits buffer to buffer reversing, providing that all track, particularly points, are large radius. My layout is end to end and is designed with the coupling in mind....in practical terms there are no points of a radii less than that of the Peco large radius "streamline" , some home built are a finer radius.
As mentioned, the conversion of my stock is not quite complete. It is without doubt extremely time consuming as each individual item of stock has to be treated as a one off, and there is little scope for mass producing. Having said that the material cost per coupling is a few pennies.
Depending on the make of rolling stock conversion can entail some quite ruthless alteration to the undersides particularly in way of the original coupling fitments but none of this is visible when on track . No alteration in any way is required on buffer beams, buffers etc.
Is anyone else dabbling in this business.
Tiebar
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493 Posts
Hello again
With regards the original query about using Alex Jackson couplings with OO and my concern about the natural slop in OO wheel standards causing the stock to not be parallel to the track- you could of course try staying with OO but slightly reducing the gauge to say 16.2mm. This may alleviate the problem.
This idea has been used in O gauge where some modellers use 31.5mm as opposed to 32mm. This is designed to give better running through points and I have heard of modellers doing the same in OO.
Now for those of you interested in Alex Jackson couplings and who use DCC - may I recommend that you look on youtube - seach for DCC AJ COUPLER - now that is incredibly impressive! Uncoupling Alex Jackson couplers in 4mm by using DCC and a servo inside the loco - amazing!
With regards the original query about using Alex Jackson couplings with OO and my concern about the natural slop in OO wheel standards causing the stock to not be parallel to the track- you could of course try staying with OO but slightly reducing the gauge to say 16.2mm. This may alleviate the problem.
This idea has been used in O gauge where some modellers use 31.5mm as opposed to 32mm. This is designed to give better running through points and I have heard of modellers doing the same in OO.
Now for those of you interested in Alex Jackson couplings and who use DCC - may I recommend that you look on youtube - seach for DCC AJ COUPLER - now that is incredibly impressive! Uncoupling Alex Jackson couplers in 4mm by using DCC and a servo inside the loco - amazing!
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493 Posts
Hello again
I am informed that the Scalefour society have recently published a book on the Alex Jackson coupling - its history and how to make it and use it.
Paul
I am informed that the Scalefour society have recently published a book on the Alex Jackson coupling - its history and how to make it and use it.
Paul
OK, I gave up, I bought standard Smiths 3 links for the rolling stock
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I am having problems finding 00 diesel screw link couplings for the locos now (with the parallel plates for the top link) Can anybody point me in the right direction
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Thank you.
Rob.
I am having problems finding 00 diesel screw link couplings for the locos now (with the parallel plates for the top link) Can anybody point me in the right direction
Thank you.
Rob.
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4,843 Posts
Hi Rob.
The 00 brigade seem to be ignoring you but a quick search on Google produced this. http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Smiths..._for__OO__.html
The screw link couplers are about half way down the page but I'm not sure if these are what you want as I am into N Gauge Steam.
The 00 brigade seem to be ignoring you but a quick search on Google produced this. http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Smiths..._for__OO__.html
The screw link couplers are about half way down the page but I'm not sure if these are what you want as I am into N Gauge Steam.
QUOTE The 00 brigade seem to be ignoring you but a quick search on Google produced this.
You do find this with some forums, you've only got to say one thing others don't agree with and your outcast. Maybe my time here is over ??
I've had a look on that list and I can't see any diesel links, but I'll ring that shop on Monday anyway. Many thanks for your help Expat
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You do find this with some forums, you've only got to say one thing others don't agree with and your outcast. Maybe my time here is over ??
I've had a look on that list and I can't see any diesel links, but I'll ring that shop on Monday anyway. Many thanks for your help Expat
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