Model Railway Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Guys,

This layout thread will be 2 fold.

1.) My small layout to practise on.

2.) My large layout that has not and can not be started just yet!

The first layout, as posted in the newbie forum I have build this small layout to have a practice on in my office........



... this will remain unnamed and probably dismantled eventually however I will post progress photos as and when things happen.

This layout is all hornby 00 track but as I say it is a practice layout and as I had most of the hornby track left over from childhood trainsets it mad sense to use it for this pupose.


Eventually the layout of my dreams
will be built in the loft here.....



... however I have to finish the party wall (don't want my skanky neighbours getting at my stuff!) and get more of it boarded out before I can start to build base boards.

So, watch this space!


Planned jobs for this weekend.....

1.) Replace side panel (currently has a hole in it due to previous plans to have a small hidden fiddle yard).
2.) Paint everything a colour (fed up of seeing wood now!)
3.) Build party wall in loft (this is obviously prep work)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
Watching this space with bated breath!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, so the questions start. I need to bear in mind that the final outcome of this is to have the ultimate layout in the loft, this is never going to be prefectly accurate but if I end up with a proper scened railway I can run long fast express trains and frieght trains on I will be a very happy bunny, so......

Once I can't see the MDF on the small layout any more (in other words it's been painted) what is best to do next? Have a go a gravelling or something else?

With the loft plan I haven't even started on a track design because as you can see from the picture of my loft there are beams that run accross at a height of around 4 foot. I'm tempted to build at this height and use the beams as supports however due to the pitch of my roof that would cut the size of the layout down to about 10 foot by 12. If I have it at a lower height I will obviously be able to fit in a larger layout but I'm worried the beams will spoil the look of it. Any thoughts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
Id suggest ballasting the track would be a good start on the small layout. As for the supporting beams in your loft, You could build the base board below this then hide them in a Hill, running the track beneath them through tunnels. This would also give you a handy scenic break.
Just a thought!
I do have em now n then!
Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now there's some food for thought! This would work apart from the bit where I took the picture from as I wanted to use the alcoves either side of the chimney breast (I was standing in one to take the pic) and the first beam you can see in the pic would be difficult to model in........ although if that were hidden it could be a massive fiddle yard accessable from the alcoves........ sorry thinking out loud!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
I find thinking out loud helps a great deal!
Perhaps you could draw a rough plan of the loft space to give us an idea of the possibilitys and Ill think aloud too!
Regards
Steve
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,854 Posts
Hi again Dave.

One thing which jumped out at me was the use of MDF on your 'test' layout. I would strongly receommend that you look at an alternative material such as plywood for the construction of your permanent layout boards. If you do a search on MDF you will see that there has been much discussion re. the use/qualities/draw-backs to using this material ad the general consenseus is that plywood is a far better material both in terms of associated health hazards and its stability under changing temperature and humidity conditions. It is also a darned site easier to push track pins into plywood than into MDF.

Getting back to what you should do next I would actually suggest taking a step back and experimenting with various types of track underlay. Cork has, for many years, been the generally accepted material for it's sound absorbing properties but there are now some excellent 'closed-cell' foam underlays on the market which are far better than cork. Gaugemaster produce one such material but there are plenty of other, readily available ones such as the foam underlay used beneath wood strip flooring. Stay away from the open foam type of track beds though (Hornby & Peco) as these do become brittle over time and will eventually completely degrade.

Having got that sorted you can then progress to track ballasting. Try different makes, grades and colours until you find what looks best to you.

I look forward to seeing your progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok cheers Trevor, looks like I'll be pulling the track pins out again then! lol

Don't worry about the materials either my friend, I have no intention of lugging big lumps of MDF in to my loft. The layout was build purely from stuff I had hanging around in the shed. The whole set up so far has cost me about £20 (excluding a new power supply cause after 20 years in the loft unsurprisingly the originals didn't work!)

Steve - very rough rushed sketch of my loft.......

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
Any chance of seeing where the access hatch is. I guess you'll be wanting a run around layout?
Steve
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
To use track pins or not to use track pins?
I personally dont like track pins. What I will be doing when my baseboards have been built is using the method our club layout uses. The track is pinned in place with dress makers pins (those that have the nice big plastic balls on the end) then ballasted. Once the ballast is dry the dressmakers pins are removed. A prototypical approach as real track is held in place by its ballast, and in areas where the track has been prone to slippage, they "glue" the ballast to hold the track, a bit like fact following fiction!
Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The hatch is (as you look at the top sketch) just below the bottom beam if that makes any sense?!?! Yeah run around is the idea. The hatch will be at least 3 foot from the edge of the top sketch (obviously further the lower down you go).

The glueing it down with gravel sound logical, boy am I glad I'm having a practice first! lol

What are these foams and cork boards like for painting and glueing to?

Also I have seen people paint track to give it a rusty rustic look before ballasting is this sensible, how does it work with the trains making connection to the track?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
Theres a good write up in febuarys edition of hornby magazine "shaking the box" can be seen here
Click here!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well guys only a micro update......

I finally got some time to mess around so I have removed the now non-required end board and have finally got my small layout up and running (a small not very good video link is below!).

Now I know it's not much and you'll have to excuse the screwdriver removal, the erm, non railway line side items and the noise (someone didn't do their research properly and now has to take all the track up to lay cork under it!) but as this is the first time I've run a train in 20 years I was pleased! Just a couple of sticking points on the... well points to sort now.


Time to think about some sort of elevation as well seeing as the tracks gotta come methinks.

PS - Spot the shaddow, I mean dobermann again!

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj149/o...nt=P2130228.flv
 

·
Chief mouser
Joined
·
11,775 Posts
QUOTE (Dave Jones @ 13 Feb 2009, 15:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>PS - Spot the shaddow, I mean dobermann again!

They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks........I'm not so sure.

Looks good though.

Regards
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top