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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done two rather nice conversions of Stanier 8Fs, one as an oil burner with air brakes and another as a R.H.D. version for Turkey.

I'mstuck for W D Transfers - anybody know if such a thing is available.

I've also converted my Sir Guy Williams to an oil burner. I'm looking at the possibility of doing a carve up to create a
WD 2-10-0 from two 2-8-0s which would give me a spare tender!

I have drawings for the above conversions if anybody is interested.
 

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QUOTE (Saint Johnstoun @ 10 Jul 2008, 19:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've done two rather nice conversions of Stanier 8Fs, one as an oil burner with air brakes and another as a R.H.D. version for Turkey.

I'mstuck for W D Transfers - anybody know if such a thing is available.

I've also converted my Sir Guy Williams to an oil burner. I'm looking at the possibility of doing a carve up to create a
WD 2-10-0 from two 2-8-0s which would give me a spare tender!

I have drawings for the above conversions if anybody is interested.

Sounds good pictures please


Andii
 

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In depth idiot
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QUOTE (Saint Johnstoun @ 10 Jul 2008, 18:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I'm looking at the possibility of doing a carve up to create a
WD 2-10-0 from two 2-8-0s which would give me a spare tender!
It's an interesting thought. The parts you require for the WD 2-10-0 are the wide firebox section of the body, which will have to be scratchbuilt; and a ten coupled chassis block and an extra (ideally flangeless) wheelset for the centre driver. Wouldn't it be more economical to purchase a spare wheel set, rather than a whole second loco as a donor for this part? Are you planning to extend the 2-8-0 chassis by grafting an extra piece of framing on for the trailing axle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (34C @ 11 Jul 2008, 07:45) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>It's an interesting thought. The parts you require for the WD 2-10-0 are the wide firebox section of the body, which will have to be scratchbuilt; and a ten coupled chassis block and an extra (ideally flangeless) wheelset for the centre driver. Wouldn't it be more economical to purchase a spare wheel set, rather than a whole second loco as a donor for this part? Are you planning to extend the 2-8-0 chassis by grafting an extra piece of framing on for the trailing axle?
Thanks for the thought. I produced a Pennsy I1 by extending a Mehano 2-8-2 chassis and using a spare Bachmann K4 body once. I can get spare wheelsets from Bachmann so that may be the best route - the boiler can be extended using scratch built parts from plastic tube and card.

The problem is of course that the wheelbase of the 2-8-0 is not equal over all four sets of drivers whilst with the 2-10-0 is.

Its a great pity the 2-10-0 promised by Dapol? later Bachmann never appeared.
 

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QUOTE (Saint Johnstoun @ 11 Jul 2008, 17:57) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the thought. I produced a Pennsy I1 by extending a Mehano 2-8-2 chassis and using a spare Bachmann K4 body once. I can get spare wheelsets from Bachmann so that may be the best route - the boiler can be extended using scratch built parts from plastic tube and card.

The problem is of course that the wheelbase of the 2-8-0 is not equal over all four sets of drivers whilst with the 2-10-0 is.

Its a great pity the 2-10-0 promised by Dapol? later Bachmann never appeared.

*** You clearly have the good hands on skills for it so it might be worth contacting DJH - their 2-10-0 WD makes up pretty well and being whitemetal with brass cab and detail will pull the side out of the layout room.... certainly not a more expensive proposition than 2x 2-8-0's I'd think either.

Richard
DCCconcepts
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 11 Jul 2008, 14:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>*** You clearly have the good hands on skills for it so it might be worth contacting DJH - their 2-10-0 WD makes up pretty well and being whitemetal with brass cab and detail will pull the side out of the layout room.... certainly not a more expensive proposition than 2x 2-8-0's I'd think either.

Richard
DCCconcepts
Believe it or not I have an unmade DJH Austrity 2-8-0 still in the box. I'm fine with whitemetal but struggle with etched brass construction. Far happier in plastic!
 
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