Model Railway Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Ok guys so I am starting again as the boards I have used and the layout I had was not the right size so instead of having to match up 4 or more boards to get the size of board I need I have decided to start again.

Now what thickness should the base of the board Ideally be? I mean before the frame work goes on it of course. Is there a minimum or maximum thickness of the board which is acceptable that I can go for.

I'm planning on a 5x3ft layout on 1 board instead of several ones bolted together.

I'm still trying to work out what kind of plan for N gauge that is still Kato track that is simple but interesting modern british era but I do know that I want at least 3 ovals with the widest curve being 11" 45 degree curve on it and some sidings and at least 2 passing loops in the fiddle yard area so I can park stock up behind the scenes as well as some lines that join the mainlines on the front so I can store locos.

I have been looking at some plans online but they all seem pretty complicated when it comes to the sidings areas which is what I'm trying to avoid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
QUOTE (harkins77 @ 19 Jun 2008, 13:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ok guys so I am starting again as the boards I have used and the layout I had was not the right size so instead of having to match up 4 or more boards to get the size of board I need I have decided to start again.

Now what thickness should the base of the board Ideally be? I mean before the frame work goes on it of course. Is there a minimum or maximum thickness of the board which is acceptable that I can go for.

I'm planning on a 5x3ft layout on 1 board instead of several ones bolted together.

I'm still trying to work out what kind of plan for N gauge that is still Kato track that is simple but interesting modern british era but I do know that I want at least 3 ovals with the widest curve being 11" 45 degree curve on it and some sidings and at least 2 passing loops in the fiddle yard area so I can park stock up behind the scenes as well as some lines that join the mainlines on the front so I can store locos.

I have been looking at some plans online but they all seem pretty complicated when it comes to the sidings areas which is what I'm trying to avoid.

Hello.

I would suggest 3" x 1" for the baseboard frame with a 2" x 1" support at the mid way point.

9mm or 3/8" ply will be good for the surface of the frame. If the area where you model is warm & dry you could use Mdf for the surface but Ply is far better.

I can't advise on a plan bacause I don't do N gauge but i'm sure there will be plenty of advise from other members.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One thing I was thinking of with the new layout was instead of just having a basic board I lean over to be able to reach all parts of the and risk damaging the nearest part of the track or scenic work.

I was wondering to be able to take the track dimensions of the outer curve/sidings I want how big should the board be to be able to take the 3 lines of track and for me to be able to stand in a cut out in the middle of the board so I can easily reach all parts of the layout?

I have included a picture of what I was thinking.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (Robert Stokes @ 19 Jun 2008, 17:46) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>A central operating well is a good idea if you can make it large enough with N gauge. I don't want to repeat the reasons here so if you are interested click on my name and go to my comment on 4th June.

So going back to my question then could I get the 3 lines round using the central operating method then or will I have to make the boards slightly bigger so I can get the 3 different curves in it. The thing is I haven't bought the new boards yet so I won't know until I make a cut to see if it works.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,842 Posts
In OO, the gauge I use, you reckon on 50mm track centres for double track. I would guess that means about 25 to 30mm in N gauge. The third track should be a bit further apart if you want it to be like the prototype. Altogether I think that you will need about 100mm for your three tracks with room for clearance each side.

You would need about 36 by 16 inches minimum to stand in assuming that you are reasonably slim, although a bit more width would be useful. This still gives you 10 inches or 250mm both sides. Only you can decide if that is enough. Bear in mind that it doesn't have to be an equal amount on the two sides. You might want more on one side for a station and less the other side for plain track.

Hope this has helped. Good luck with the project. Cheers, Robert.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks very much Robert I will keep you guys updated on the progress of it as it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is a first attempt of what I want. I know that above the red backboard is definately how I want the layout to look like but it is below the red line is where I am struggling to decide on what to go for track layout wise.

If anyone has any ideas feel free to give me some pointers.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok so here is my final track design for the layout now I just need to work out the wiring for it using Kato N gauge unitrack with electrofrog track. The layout is set out as it is showed below but inside of the inner loop there will be a space in the middle for me to stand in and control the trains on the layout.

http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/uploa...71_60_32319.jpg

Oh yeah I forgot I'm using the NCE powercab standard system as well to power it.

Any comments welcome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok so the track is roughly set out in the way I want it now but that is only temporary until the wiring and power feeds and isolating areas are worked out.

I'm still waiting for a friendly neighbour who has said they can get me some wood for the framework and also the batons that will fix to the wall on 3 sides to give the effect of a floating layout but once all the wiring has been done there will be a framework done so that I can have shelves underneath so that the normal shed bits and pieces can be put away neatly i.e. lawnmower, tools and other bits and bobs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Ok so now I'm in business.

My neighbour has just come through for me with 2x 7ft odd sections of 2x2 wood and 2x4 ft sections of wood that I can start to make a frame out of.

I shall be cutting them down tomorrow if the weather is what it is supposed to be seeing as it has just started raining again today so no chance of getting outside to get the framework started today.
 

·
Ian Wigglesworth
Joined
·
750 Posts
As you've got HVR I would actually run trains on the layout and see if you like it before doing anything else.

I only say this as I and probably most of us have put the layout down run it for a few weeks only to rip it up and start again!

Using HVR, you can build your layout, add the scenery if you wish then run it for a while.
It's then easy to add parts or take them away to get the best operation for you.

Once your happy with the HVR layout you can then transfer this to your working layout.

Just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm already ahead of you Wiggy. Been there and done that. The track work I'm happy with it's just working out what is going to go where scenic wise.

The only things I'm sure of is that the bottom part of the layout with the 3 lines coming off the outside line to go to the workshop/depot area and opposite that I'm going to have either a scrapline.

There will be no station on the layout and the 3 lines will disappear on one side and reappear on the other.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well the majority of the framework and area where I will be standing has been done today thanks to my neighbour for some of the wood and my grandad who was such a sport to help me get the framework built and fiexed to the board.

I have to still join the inner frame and outer frame together to give it more support and also in the shed fix the batons to the wall to actually support the board but apart from that I'm all go for putting the track down finally.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,202 Posts
Looking good Harkins ..... not long now and the shed will echo to the sound of class 60's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Alright this is a momentus day for the new layout.

The frame was completed today and all the batons have been screwed to the wall and the board was eventually laid in place at 1830hrs today.

The only thing that needs doing now is making sure that the board is secured to the batons that are already fixed to the wall.
 

Attachments

1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top