[wiggy25]

Hi Steve,

This is one of the hardest questions to ask people!!
As we have no idea of what you like, what money you have available, would you be looking to upgrade it and then possibly go for PC control later on?

Most will just reply with what we already own and use, the one thing that is common is to recommend you actually try systems to see what you prefer!!

Look at the DCC command stations and controllers user reviews at the top in the DCC forum.
Also look at this post DCC prices I did a list of systems and the prices to give a clearer idea, look at Richards post where he gives his opinions on the different systems.

Cheers

Good hunting!

 

[wiggy25]

Steve,

If the Digitrax Zephyr is the one you like then go for it.
It is a good system, make sure you get the 3amp power supply that is recommended for it so the internal cut out works correctly.
It doesn't have all the functions of some of the other systems only 9 some offer 28 functions now!
It is nice to use, I only had my for a few weeks before selling it on.
I couldn't justify have 3 or 4 DCC systems at once!

If you don't like the other Digitrax handheld cabs you can always plug in a standard DC controller using either of the two jump ports on the back of the Zephyr unit.
If you go onto the Digitrax website I think you can download the Zephyr manual which gives info about this.

Cheers

 

[wiggy25]

Steve,

It looks like you've had many replies!
I've just got back home from being in hospital having my discectomy, 4 days in hospital is very boring!!

I have the NCE PowerCab and it is a fantastic bit of kit.
I've also bought many items from John at Bromsgrove models.

If you look at this link to my review of the NCE PowerCab.

http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...ost&p=45309

Also if you click on my BLOG link I have written up a bit about fitting the NCE Smart Booster to the set up as well!

When you buy the PowerCab it has a 2amp max power supply and like you have found out you can only add 1 further controller.

By adding the Smart Booster, you connect a 3amp supply to this which then gives you a max of 3amps to the track, it also allows you to run trains and completely unplug the controller as a true walkabout and all will still run.
It also allows you to add a further 4 cabs.
It's just a different way of upgrading the system, if you don't want to go for the full Powerhouse Pro system.
I did it this way as I had a spare 3amp power supply.

I think you will be impressed, anyway take a look at that link and my blog which will give you some more info on my set up, which may help you or at least give you more information.

Going for a lie down!

Cheers

 

[wiggy25]

Hi Steve,

I'm glad your enjoying it all, it's all part of the learning curve and enjoyment of the hobby!.

Yes you could easily go for the PowerHouse Pro system to start with, but to be honest the PowerCab even at 2amps will run many locos!

My dad runs 4 N-gauge locos at once with his PowerCab one also has sound fitted, which gives an idea of how much it can run and this wasn't the full limit either!
For his birthday I bought him the extra delux Cab from John @ Bromsmods.

He now uses one to change points and one to run the engines, he also now has the ability to store two locos in each handheld cab in the recall stack.

The nice thing with the PowerCab is that ammeter to see what current is being drawn, very useful I can't understand why the Power House Pro doesn't have that feature it's a nice thing to have!

Have you been onto the NCE web site and read the manuals for both systems? always worth while when looking at a new system!

You know that as soon as you get it your going to have to post photos of the layout and setup!!

Cheers

 

[wiggy25]

Hi Steve,

Firstly I would run the points off their own separate power supply!
If you have a short circuit anywhere you won't be able to change the points, just something I found out when doing my layout.

I don't know what power all of the lights, smoke unit and sounds would use, having only 4 locos I think it would be ok, anymore though and I think you may need some more power
I would speak to John and ask for his advice on that one.

The PowerCab comes complete with the PowerCab (handheld controller) the cables and the little transformer/power supply.
The Handheld unit or PowerCab contains everything inside it, booster, DCC signal generator , brain etc.

The Power House Pro has the Handheld controller....called a PRO-CAB this plugs into a black box the PowerHouse Pro system box which contains the DCC signal generator, booster, PC interface, brain etc.

So each system comes complete ready to use out of the box.

The PowerCab can be upgraded by just buying the Powerhouse Pro system box and a 5amp power supply. the PowerCab just plugs into the box and will automatically switch to Pro-Cab function.....basically it will use all of the electronics in the system box and NOT inside itself.

This is why the PowerCab can be upgaded so easily to the Powerhouse Pro.
This is the route I would recommend, the reason being, you can connect the PowerCab upto your layout and be running straight away no problem.
Later you might upgrade and buy the Powerhouse Pro box and still run everything.

If you then build a small micro layout or working diorama, you wouldn't need to use the full Powerhouse Pro system, but just to run everything, instead of buying a new control system you could fit the PowerCab power panel to this layout and plug the PowerCab into it and run it as a full working layout, you only then need to swap the cable and 'PowerCab' handheld cab between layouts(all the cables are supplied!)

You couldn't do this if you bought the full PowerHouse Pro set first, as the Pro-Cab handheld needs the separate system box to work; it hasn't got the inbuilt brain that the PowerCab has.

It's hard to explain but when you've got it in your hand it's very easy, my dads 75 and he uses it no problem!

You can buy extra handsets for the systems as you have seen, the Cab04e or Cab 04p or the Cab05.
You can also buy an extra Pro-Cab this is a handset that looks identical to the PowerCab handheld controller and is basically the same one as supplied in the Powerhouse Pro set.

The reason I bought this extra Pro-cab for my dad is because it has the LCD screen on it which shows all required information, makes it much easier to follow whats happening.
I could have bought one of the other cabs but then you need to remember what address you've typed in or which point you've accessed, with the LCD screen all of this information is shown.

It's slightly confusing with the naming of the cabs but like I've said it does make sense...eventually!

Cheers

 

[wiggy25]

Steve,

Also have a look at this topic, I posted this with details of the NCE CP6 circuit protector.
This is useful if your going to split your layout into block sections.

http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...ost&p=46319

If you do this, each pair of wires coming out of the CP6 will goto it's own section, therefore each pair or wires will be that sections DCC main power bus.

You could easilt connect BD-20's to these sections for block detection as well!

Cheers

 

[wiggy25]

Steve asked me about this so I've done this little diagram.
If it's wrong then please someone copy the image and alter it and repost it!!.

I thought it would be of use to anybody starting up a new layout.
This thread could do with being made sticky as it has lots of useful information for those new to DCC.
This is why it's hard to say which DCC system, you need to know what you goal is at the end so you can wire up everything to get to that goal, it's much harder to alter things afterwards, and no chance when ballasting and the like has been done.

Anyway.

This diagram shows the main DCC signal coming in to the NCE CP6 6 way circuit protector, these are just light bulbs which light up if there is a short circuit, it will not shut down th epower to that section though, so a proper circuit protector should be used!
For clarity I've only used 4 sections.
Each section is isolated from another section by using insulated joiners in both rails as shown by the green blocks on the track.
The feeder wires are connected to each side of the rail and then goto the main DCC power us for that section, I connect the feeder wires each side of a metal fish plate so I'm not relying on these for conducting the power! Remember the sections can be quite large!
The sections have to be big enough to hold your longest train completely.
In one of the feeder wires there is a NCE BD-20 this is an occupancy detector which will give an output when that section has something running in it by detecting a change in the current.

EDIT:- There should be only one set of dropper wires from each section if using the BD-20!

I've also shown the accessory decoders for point control on their own circuit, this is so if you have a short circuit or fault anywhere the accesory decoders will still work.
Also if if you have a short in any 1 section the lamp on the CP6 board will light up that section will not work but the other ones will!

Fault finding is quite easy as you can lable each section.

Example

Section 1:- outerloop
Section 2:- Inner loop
Section 3:- Station
Section 4:- Fiddle yard
Section 5:- Accesory decoders

Gives you an idea, of how easy or complicated this can be, hence how difficult it is when asked which DCC system, we do need a little more information than that

Hope it helps and if I've missed anything or something isn't quite right please correct it and state why, hopefully this thread will make a great DCC starter for those new to it all!

Cheers

 

[wiggy25]

Cheers Richard,

Not really having anything to do with the BD-20's or even wanting PC control, I didn't know the full ins and outs of connecting these up, I should really have read the instruction manuals on the NCE website.

I'm sure there are other detectors that can be used that will allow more droppers to be connected as well though?
If it's a big section I would prefer to have more than one set of droppers from the track to DCC bus!!

Yep your right, the CP6 is really for use with low power systems.

The EB3 doesn't work with the PowerCab, the current is too low..tried it and spoke to NCE who told me to use the CP6 instead.

I'm sure like many things there will be something available that will completely shut down the section in case of a fault, but I don't have anything fitted on my layout that will do this, as I've got the Smart Booster connected I should really use something!

Cheers