[harkins77]

Hi there I was wondering if any of you can offer some advice,

I have had a yellow wire come loose from the terminals on my circuit board on my class 60 in N gauge.

Now I know where it goes but I don't have a soldering iron.

I went to Maplins and have seen some irons on show but there was 12w , 15w and some others.

Which one is best to solder wires back onto the boards? I don't wanna find I have the wrong one when the loco goes bang.

I know I will need to get some low melt solder for which maplins don't sell any

Help me please.

 

[Makemineadouble]

I've had my Weller 40w soldering station for at least 7 maybe 8 years, it's reliable and great to use. I periodically replace the tips, every couple of years, avoid the wet sponge and use the tip cleaner for longer tip life, they really work. I use my iron almost every day it's just one of those tools that was expensive at the outset but a real joy to use and cheap in the long run. I also have another completely new soldering station also with digital readout in a box, I bought it just in case the Weller failed me it hasn't it's my tool of choice. I have an Antex low temp iron, nice iron for white metal etc, and a large 100 w iron for those heavy jobs. I like Weller, buy an flux pencil that takes liquid flux, they are great to use, and will give you confidence with your soldering.

The crowd in Plymouth Browsters I think are the main Weller agents and they also stock other makes as well, they have a web site so consider them.

 

[harkins77]

so which is best for soldering wires with circuit boards then?

I already have a gas one but I was told that it would get too hot for the board and that this was the reason for getting a low temp iron.

 

[breastonstation]

Harkins77, go to www.rapidonline.com and type in the search box "85-6370" for Low Melt Solder.
Any soldering iron is ok, just as long as it has a good tip, stock 10 at a time and you cant go wrong. (or in my case I could).
Rapid also sell a lot of soldering irons, just have a browse around.

 

[Avionyx]

Hi there,

Maplins currently (or they did last week) have a deal with a 40w soldering iron with temperature control (useful to have) and a good solid base station, down to £9.99 from £34.99 or something like that. I bought one and its a brilliant unit, heats up fine, I keep the temp control in the middle and it melts the solder fine, hasn't had any problems with damaging components or anything.

On the subject of solder.... my local model shop is actually half the price of maplins and B&Q for solder, yet double the price for irons... strange eh? anyway, my point is - get your solder from a model shop, its probably cheaper!

Alex

 

[Richard Johnson]

QUOTE (harkins77 @ 29 Nov 2007, 04:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi there I was wondering if any of you can offer some advice,

I have had a yellow wire come loose from the terminals on my circuit board on my class 60 in N gauge.

Now I know where it goes but I don't have a soldering iron.

I went to Maplins and have seen some irons on show but there was 12w , 15w and some others.

Which one is best to solder wires back onto the boards? I don't wanna find I have the wrong one when the loco goes bang.

I know I will need to get some low melt solder for which maplins don't sell any

Help me please.

*** Good soldering Irons are never cheap.

I strongly recommend a quality Iron such as the Antex XS25 (25 watt) or the Antex 660 soldering station - much dearer than a cheapo but there are ALWYS reasons for the price difference.

Make sure you have one designed do the tip surrounds the element with a good surface area - that ensures it can deliver heat without problems - Irons where the tip screws into the Iron quickly lose efficiency as the corrosion starts - and it will.

Have two tips. a 1mm pointed tip for smal lelectronic work and a 2~3mm chisel tip for rail joints and larger jobs.

Solder: Its not all the same. You want one with a good flow and low melt point - and to be honest a LEAD BEARING solder is best by a long way. You also want a good no-clean flux as it will make your work so much easier (even though the solder often has some in it).

C&L finescale can help you with the solder and flux in UK - The owners Name is Brian Lewis. Ask for Carrs 179 solder and Orange Flux...they have an excellent mail order service.

Richard
DCCconcepts
Perth, Australia

 

[pedromorgan]

I use an antex 18w for evrything except my stained glass work. for which i use a antex HP80.

I go through 1 tip about evry 3 months but i use the iron for on average 6 hours evry day.

I have had mixed luck with C&L. at an exhibition once i found the person very rude and completly spoiuled my day out. it was one of those incidents where you go home thinking about that rather than what a great day out i have had.

About 3 mnonths ago i decided to give them another chance and since then they have been good as gold.

As always with tools. go for the best you can afford. particularly if you are young. whats the point of going for a cheap crappy iron that might last 6 months if you have 50 years of modelling infront of you. i know it may be alot of money in the short term but it will pay for itself many times over.

Peter

 

[Robert Stokes]

Do you need low melt solder for basic electrical work? I thought that was only needed for use with white metal kits.

 

[Makemineadouble]

in a nut shell no.