Which track?

QUOTE (16A @ 28 Jun 2009, 11:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>My eye has been drawn to Tillig - I like the one piece point blades which give a much better visual than those awful pivots half way along the blades that Peco use. They also produce an insulated ballast inlay thingy which would help considerably with ballasting and at the same time, hopefully eliminate the drumming I've had up to now.

I have laid completely in Tillig and used the Styrostone. The Styrostone requires quite a bit of experience to master particularly round curves using flexitrack.

QUOTE (16A @ 28 Jun 2009, 11:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>With the Tillig trackwork I want to use Fulgurex point motors for a more realistic operation.

I used the Tillig point motors. There are some drawbacks but they are probably better than Fulgurex but not as good as Tortoise.

QUOTE (16A @ 28 Jun 2009, 11:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Is Tillig trackwork only available in code 80 (or is it 83)?

It is 83. Older stuff needs re-wheeling. A Lima CCT actually ran along the sleepers!!

QUOTE (16A @ 28 Jun 2009, 18:58) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I think I missed the obvious question - as Tillig is HO will my 00 stock run okay on it? Some of it is over 20 years old and I've read that flange depth can sometimes be a problem with different code rail.

See above.

QUOTE (16A @ 29 Jun 2009, 07:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What was the problem David? and did you use the 'super-elevation' add on?

Mainly getting the rigid foam Styrostone to go round curves. You have to use a hairdryer and the melt temperature is critical. I also used standard contact adhesive which, in excessive quantity, dissolves the foam. You are also advised to fit the flexitrack first which can, if starting from a parallel joiner straight can cause some problems with sighting sleeper sets at the far end. Difficult to explain on here but I suppose it could be solved by using huge lengths of Styrostone and track to arrive at the next set of fixed track (point, crossover etc.) Bit unwieldy.

QUOTE (16A @ 29 Jun 2009, 07:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Why do you think they are better or worse?

Mainly from hearsay on this and other forums plus a fair amount of practical experience ( ten motors laid so far ). The Tillig point motor is small, noisy (unless mounted on sticky tape) and expensive ( £15 each ) plus it needs 16 volts AC to operate properly although there is a way of using 9 volts DC but using complex switchgear to address polarity issues. I think these motors are really good. They offer good control, frog polarity switching built in plus adjustable point throw and a useful cascade system for crossovers saving DCC switches. Avoid anything labelled Pilz (the old label for Tillig) and check that the supplied piano wire is just that.

Fulgurex seem to have a small following and are also noisy. Tortoise are a really good slow motion motor which will work well and operate on twelve volts making them operable from accessory decoders direct. I have had to use home built relays for the 16volt AC supply to my Tilligs.